RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Lert wrote:Nice, nice.

I built the ye olde Tiger I in that scale once but don't have that model anymore.

Can we expect a build thread?

Yes, I will post some pics. I hope to be able to start building next week. Im bound to do things in an akward way, have patence with me. Im a beginner . Right now Im checking youtube tor building and painting tips.

Really looking forward to this.

lmcq11 wrote:Hi,

If you plan is to do a camo, I recommend that you buy an entry level good airbrush with compressor kit that you can buy on Amazon for about $100-125 with free shipping, and you will be able to use it for the next 20+ years. Getting 4 or 5 Tamiya spray cans of various colors for the camo scheme will already cost you about half of that amount. Doing a complex camo will also be difficult with enamel cans, it is much easier with acrylics with an airbrush that you can control the flow.

I use Tamiya cans when I want to give a primer coat of enamel on my tanks. Its fast and it avoids an enamel cleaning job on the airbrush.

Good luck with your Centurion build. Its a classic.
Louis

So I took the advice and bought a cheap airbrush beginner set. I know that quality matters here but I still have to figure out if this hobby is for me. If ill enjoy it I´ll buy a better airbrush later on.

I bought a small pot of tamiya liguid surface primer that I can thin up and use with the spraygun.

I know its a really basic question and that it belongs in the building thread, but what glue du you guys refommend for a rc tank? The manual states tamiya extra thin cement but will that he sufficienr for a rc tank?

Enjoy the build, Pebbe. Don't worry too much about little errors here and there. I'm sure we all made them. They litter the paths taken by experienced modellers.Tamiya rattle cans work well with careful masking, and rarely require more than a good shake, and inversion with a little spray after use. Airbrush kits vary greatly in quality and temperament ( not to mention price). Practice on paper and cardboard before you get to work on the model, so as to familiarise yourself with the unit's quirks. Ultimately, you want a compressor capable of providing enough puff for sweeps over the length of a 1/25 scale (and eventually 1/16 ), with a nozzle fine enough for detail later. Some of the budget kits are intended for use in nail salons and fine detail only, and can't cope with larger scale projects. Good luck!

43rdRecceReg wrote:Enjoy the build, Pebbe. Don't worry too much about little errors here and there. I'm sure we all made them. They litter the paths taken by experienced modellers.Tamiya rattle cans work well with careful masking, and rarely require more than a good shake, and inversion with a little spray after use. Airbrush kits vary greatly in quality and temperament ( not to mention price). Practice on paper and cardboard before you get to work on the model, so as to familiarise yourself with the unit's quirks. Ultimately, you want a compressor capable of providing enough puff for sweeps over the length of a 1/25 scale (and eventually 1/16 ), with a nozzle fine enough for detail later. Some of the budget kits are intended for use in nail salons and fine detail only, and can't cope with larger scale projects. Good luck!

Thanks for the tips and encouragement.

For glue, I use a gel super glue that is designed to be impact resistant. Mine is a Selleys product.
Slower to cure, but very strong & indeed takes knocks far better than ordinary super glue.
Good call getting the airbrush, Mr cq11 is correct in his assessment of the cost of Tamiya aerosol cans adding up quick.
Hook in mate,

Following on from Herman's observations on the sticky stuff, I've found Tamya's own cement more than adequate for their models. In some kits, especially their RC models, you'll find that some parts (suspension and running gear) are made of harder ABS plastic, but these will be indicated clearly in the build instructions, when (and if) they are included. Again, Tamiya ABS cement is more than adequate.
Use a well-ventilated room when assembling your model. Polystyrene cements can produce unwanted 'highs' . In any event, it's not healthy to inhale them. A good mask is always a sound investment.

Roy when I was in the service one of the places I served at had Composite floors and with the soldiers "Issue boots DMS" they would leave black scuff marks on the best of polished floors so the Sgt Major "Invited"!! a platoon of Gods chosen soldiers to clean the scuff marks off,
They were issued with Bumpers, (Ask your Grandad) Rags, and a 5litre can of Carbon Tetrachloride.
Our heroes wrapped the rags around the base of the bumpers and dipped them into a tray of the fluid and off they went swinging the bumpers up and down the barrack room floor,
Quite soon they began singing as their enthusiasm for the work increased,
Perhaps I should mention it was a cold winters morning in Germany and of course the windows and doors were closed,
The Sgt Major decided to go to the barracks to see how the work was progressing,
He heard the singing from as far away as the cookhouse and broke into a run,
Opening the door the men greeted him with cheering and proudly tried to show him the results of the hard work but he being a heartless basta*d ordered all the windows open and for the men to parade outside,
He sent for an ambulance and the doctor, fortunately apart from some severe headaches no permanent harm was done but it was a close run thing,
Carbon Tet in a confined space will KILL.
The incident was hushed up or many heads would have fallen after that day.
I learnt a valuable lesson about the handling of chemicals and I always keep a window open when using Glues and other chemicals in the workshop.

Thanks so much for the valuable info. From what I can see there isn´t much ABS plastic that needs glueing in the model. My ”Workshop” is in the corner of the kitchen since I live in a small flat, but I will defenetly open the windows.