RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi Herman.
Thx for the compliment and interest.
I use a variety of ways, most commonly use a " shunt "
Namely another metal object closer to the flame than the joint you have just soldered which takes the heat up the shunt away from the previous soldered joint.
You can use metal crocodile clips for this or shunt past smeared on or even a wet rag placed close to the joint as the heat transfere warms the water not the joint.
If doing brass tube you can also inset a steel drill bit the same size as the bore which again takes the heat, you can also buy / use different temp solders for each joint just start with the biggest / hottest joint first.
Hope this makes sense.
Regards
Sub.

Mr Sub, you are far from boring anyone, this is a fantastic build

I've use clamps, pliers, drill bits etc for heat transference. Also one has to be as quick as possible without getting tempted to linger with the heat, better to file off clumped excess solder than keep the heat on too long

Nice build. The tips for soldering are ace, high, med and low heat solder amazing . Another way is to use jewellers ceramic pin board to position parts and then solder.

Oh, is that what that's for, I have a rectangular one I sort of inherited with some other stuff, I wondered what it was for lol.

Hi chaps.
Thank you for the nice comments... i will keep the pics coming.
Good tip for the jewelers ceramic pad, i also use a stand with 2 crocodile clips on a weighted base, well i have 3 actually so i can hold most parts together and solder everything in one go if i wish, they are relatively cheap to buy, they go by the name of helping hands and are invaluable, well worth the purchase for anyone soldering brass together.
Regards
Sub.

Hi.
More photos of build, to start with engine exhaust stack.

Hi.
Yet more pics this time of hull front and Dozer blade construction.
The blade was made from an initial flat piece cut to size then gently rolled to give it a concave shape when happy rear strengthening strips were added to the rear to make it hold its form then side pieces were added and when dry the lower edge of the blade where it meets the ground had strenthening strips added to resist wear on the leading edge asper the real thing.
Regards
Sub.

A few more this time making the headlights and Air horns and then some items of stowage inc barrels and wooden crates.
Sub.

Brilliant work and excellent subject matter

Plenty of advice for all builders regardless of the subject version.
Thanks for sharing.