T-14 Armata

[50koruny]

hi.
T-14 is ready for some nice camo.everything is prepared.
i am not good with colors, so i have to take that beast to my friend for final painting.
i hope i can obtain some nice digital camo.
its like a christmass

here is a direct link to album
https://imgur.com/a/5hsGR

[c.rainford73]

Such an amazing tank, can't wait to see it painted

[50koruny]

i can't wait to see it too
i dont know...how long does it take?to paint it in digital camo?that man is an old professional, making that for 50 years maybe.
it can take days?weeks?months?
but tank is very huge.i used 2 liters of filler/primer even with XTC-3D coating.also a relatively large amount of coating was used.its big and heavy even without metal parts.
and after that paint, i need to complete AND DONT DRIVE IT!!! before weathering.
weathering is an long time job?

[50koruny]

still waiting to be painted
i have an complete set of wheels and tracks ready.
wheels was printed with ASA.
"old" ABS tracks are from the first prototype and "rubber" is TPE 88 (FLEX)
everything printed with 0,1mm layer and 0,3mm nozzle.

i am calling this done.finally.

[wibblywobbly]

Truly stunning work, I always wondered who would be the first to create an Armata, and you have not only done it, you have produced an exceptional model.

I see that you used the XTC trick to smooth the parts, was this easy to do? I have read about it but none of the results that I have seen on the internet look as good as yours?

I fully understand that you are not going to put all of that hard work on Thingiverse for free, you would have to be mad to do that. If you wanted to make it available you could try using Pinshape? If you post STL's on there you can set a price for the download, and importantly include a Creative Commons licence that is enforceable globally that prevents anyone from selling copies of the download, or selling copies of the printed model.

The assembly instructions would be a huge task though, and the different filaments required would probably deter most people from even attempting the challenge. Interestingly one guy placed a stress relieving bracket for a Creality CR-10 on Thingiverse, just a simple bracket. Creality contacted him and asked if they could use his STL to manufacture the part as a standard one on their printers. He said yes, and they sent him two printers to say 'thank you'?

Excellent work, incredibly impressive!

[50koruny]

thank you very much
where to start...
filaments - you can make a whole T-14 from the ABS and some little bit of PET(G) if you dont want to print with that exotic fillaments.you dont need to print PMMA anf FLEX if you dont want to.
but you will stay without some nice details.its more toy-looking without that flex.
i am trying to make that accessible for newbies, but its still very complex and i can not recommend that to 3D printing rookies.but i am working on new tank and this one will be much more easier to build and to print.

XTC-3D - yes.i absolutely love that stuff.you need some practice with that to achieve great result.my first attempts was very poor.other trick is alcohol.i am using an denatured alcohol to thin XTC-3D to be usable for me.its very thick in its natural form.

pinshape - no.i will provide my tanks via my own website only.i dont care about pinshape or gambody.
you can include CC licence in your own business.thats no problem.that pishape style pages is only taking high amount of money only for providing place for STLs.sorry, but i dont see nothing worth of that money on pinshape.no advanced protection for STLs, no help with law-related things...just nothing.

assembly instructions - nah its huge task, but i have some ideas for that.
here is an concept of the assembly guide.its very old, from the times of the first prototype
its an classic roadwheel without the rubber.whole guide have to be maked in this style.just renders.

[c.rainford73]

Very cool

[50koruny]

tanks a lot

...and that thing with fillaments...every printer is different, people too.i have recommended some types of fillaments, wich i have used on T-14.first prototype was from PLA.you can make it even from PLA if you avoid sun and high temperatures.or if you have PLA HD and have skill to make it dimensionally correct (PLA HD need to be annealed in the oven, so dimensions can vary).everybody can use what he want to print that tank.but result can vary.i think its a freedom of 3D printing to choose the material what you like to print with.
one example - there is only 2 gears on the T-14.i have printed that with ASA (for now), but my recommendation is POM.if you can print POM, its the best choice and you can print really high quality gears.but still, you have 2-3 alternatives in the assembly/printing guide to choose, because only a small number of people know to print with POM.
there is only one part wich MUST be printed from PET(G) on the whole T-14.other parts are on your choice and my recommendation.
but you have to think about the mass.prints from high density materials like PET(G) or CPE are heavy.i think less weighing ABS armata move smoother.especially in the grass.
i can remember times, when we have choice of ABS or PLA only.and now?we have new materials in 3D print every year.and printers are better and better.

[Niels jansen]

Wow. Thats a nice looking tank.

Are thise road wheels strong enough to drive with?
I im buildibg also a model from scratch and i was wondering if printed wheels are good enough to drive with.

Niels

[wibblywobbly]

I've printed lots of tank wheels, sprockets and idlers using plain PLA, No problems at all. It's quite hard as long as you use plenty of infill, 100% is solid plastic. Never tried printing with the exotic filaments...but as you can see with this model, exceptional results are possible.

I always worry about leaving tanks in a hot car, I printed a phone holder once and left it on the dashboard, came back a few hours later and it was completely mishaped! Tanks have never suffered though.