RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

jarndice wrote:I have never had a Taigen M26 Pershing But the Panzer 4 Gearbox output shaft cover is held in place with one well hidden SCREW and TWO PINS,
Check the screw head is not disguised with paint,
If it is held in place by Glue -------
Apply liberal amounts of "Debonder" around the edges and work the cover until it becomes free.
DO clean the remaining debonder from the area after you have finished.
Shaun.

There is one screw but the manufacturers seemed to have glued the thing on anyway. Is this "debonder" you speak of just super glue remover that probably has an acetone component in it? Would that be a guaranteed paint strip (Not that big of a problem, I can spraypaint it back on I guess).

Remove the screw, you will find it has one or two "Dowels" holding the cover in position,
It is probably the Paint that is holding the cover on so get a thin blade and try scraping an area around the edge of the cover clean and then slide the edge under the cover and work all the way around it,
If you meet an obstruction it will be a "Dowel".
when you have completed your circumnavigation of the cover put the blade of a small screwdriver under the cover edge and gently I SAID GENTLY lift, do that all around the edge of the cover and remove.
"Debonder" breaks down "Superglue" and is readily available if you type it into a search engine on your computer.
The reason I say clean off the residue is because when you come to glue back a piece you debonded it wont "Take" if the debonder is still in place.
Shaun.

You were absolutely right! The cover is indeed held by dowels...... Removed one with great effort and it turns out the chap did put super glue on it. The second one seems much harder now....

Blackadder123 wrote:I got the Taigen 4:1 steel gearboxes so definitely won't have to change that. What do you mean the bolts cleared the gearboxes? Did your bolts go into the gearboxes?

No. I have them clocked with the upper bolt at about the 10 o'clock position it uses the nut. The other is then at about the 5 o'clock position it uses just crazy glue. The gearboxes are far enough away from the hull side that the screw protrudes through the hull but does not contact the gearboxes. It has to at least go through the hull to give the support.

Ah, I see. Did you have any method of drilling the holes? Would fitting the disk onto the shaft, gluing it in place, then drilling the holes with guidance be a good idea?

DO NOT GLUE THE GEARBOX OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING
Before drilling holes in the Hull,
Slide the Bearing down the output shaft. (EASIER SAID THAN DONE) then make a note of where the "FREE" area on the other side of the hull is in relation to the Gearbox,
If you can find two points opposite each other that are unobstructed that is where the screws should be and that is where you should drill.
There is no good reason once the bearing is on the shaft why you cannot loosen the gearbox and move it away from the side of the hull to give you space to drill the holes and fit the nuts on the screws.
Shaun.

Like Shaun said don't glue it on! Double sided tape wouldn't hurt in fact I use it under mine as well as the screws. Slip on the bearing and make a mark where to drill the holes. Remove the bearing, drill the holes, slip bearing back on screw and nut on the top one, screw with crazy glue on the bottom. Just make sure the screw can thread itself into the hole, don't drill it too big or it won't work right.

jackalope wrote:Like Shaun said don't glue it on! Double sided tape wouldn't hurt in fact I use it under mine as well as the screws. Slip on the bearing and make a mark where to drill the holes. Remove the bearing, drill the holes, slip bearing back on screw and nut on the top one, screw with crazy glue on the bottom. Just make sure the screw can thread itself into the hole, don't drill it too big or it won't work right.

The double sided tape would have to be of the type that doesn't have volume, doesn't it? And how do I make sure the hole is a right fit for the screw? Should I choose the drill bit that's most similar to the size of the hole in the bearing or just slightly smaller?

This is how I do it---
Slide the Bearing down the output shaft,
Undo the retaining screws holding the gearbox,
Rotate the gearbox through 90 Degrees so that the gearbox is vertical,
Allow the gearbox to move away from the hull while keeping the bearing on the shaft,
Pin Vise two pilot holes through the holes in the bearing into the hull,
Remove the bearing from the shaft and use the same size drill bit as the size of the screw,
Replace the bearing on the shaft,
keep the gearbox vertical as you thread the nuts on the screws and tighten,
Smear a smidgen of threadlock on the nuts and lower the gearbox into position on the gearbox mount and replace the holding screws,
Repeat for the other side.
Shaun.

jarndice wrote:This is how I do it---
Slide the Bearing down the output shaft,
Undo the retaining screws holding the gearbox,
Rotate the gearbox through 90 Degrees so that the gearbox is vertical,
Allow the gearbox to move away from the hull while keeping the bearing on the shaft,
Pin Vise two pilot holes through the holes in the bearing into the hull,
Remove the bearing from the shaft and use the same size drill bit as the size of the screw,
Replace the bearing on the shaft,
keep the gearbox vertical as you thread the nuts on the screws and tighten,
Smear a smidgen of threadlock on the nuts and lower the gearbox into position on the gearbox mount and replace the holding screws,
Repeat for the other side.
Shaun.

When you say "pin vise two pilot holes" do you mean marking the points to be drilled? Why should the gearbox be vertical? In the case of the Pershing, I think I can only fit one nut onto the bearing as there's really no space (<1mm) between gearbox and hull.