Tiger I Transport tracks

[c.rainford73]

Thanks fellas

[jarndice]

Carl I understand it was late at night which probably explains why when I referred to the Tow Hook you thought I meant the Starting handle,
Heng Long/Taigen/Torro Moulded a faux starting handle shaft on the lower rear panel, Which by the way is where the full starting handle should go, mounted between the tow hook and the right rear fender,
The handle on the real Tiger 1 swings below the shaft in clear air below the hull but if you don't want to lose it when you drive it through the grass you should think of placing the handle in a clamp above the shaft,
You will of course have to abrade away the moulded on starting handle shaft first. or if you are building a late Tiger 1 then the starting handle is in two pieces that are mounted beside the radio aerial,
Now back to the Tow Hook
What Taigen/Torro and Heng Long put on the back is a stub where the tow hook should go, you need a 3mm thick piece of scrap Plasti-card you should shape it into a 6mm long bar rounded at each end and 5mm wide, cut the bar exactly in half and clamp them, DO NOT GLUE
Then pin vise a hole through the two pieces for the pintle pin to fit through, The gap on the Tank hull tow hook is 3mm, if you slide a 3mm piece of plast-card between the two pieces of your assembly and the Tanks stub you can glue the straight ends of your assembly to the straight ends of the fitted stubs with the rounded ends outward,
And job done.
Shaun.

[c.rainford73]

Carl I understand it was late at night which probably explains why when I referred to the Tow Hook you thought I meant the Starting handle,
Heng Long/Taigen/Torro Moulded a faux starting handle shaft on the lower rear panel, Which by the way is where the full starting handle should go, mounted between the tow hook and the right rear fender,
The handle on the real Tiger 1 swings below the shaft in clear air below the hull but if you don't want to lose it when you drive it through the grass you should think of placing the handle in a clamp above the shaft,
You will of course have to abrade away the moulded on starting handle shaft first. or if you are building a late Tiger 1 then the starting handle is in two pieces that are mounted beside the radio aerial,
Now back to the Tow Hook
What Taigen/Torro and Heng Long put on the back is a stub where the tow hook should go, you need a 3mm thick piece of scrap Plasti-card you should shape it into a 6mm long bar rounded at each end and 5mm wide, cut the bar exactly in half and clamp them, DO NOT GLUE
Then pin vise a hole through the two pieces for the pintle pin to fit through, The gap on the Tank hull tow hook is 3mm, if you slide a 3mm piece of plast-card between the two pieces of your assembly and the Tanks stub you can glue the straight ends of your assembly to the straight ends of the fitted stubs with the rounded ends outward,
And job done.
Shaun.

Excellent I will try this so sorry I mistook your suggestion for a "c hacken" setup. I should have figured this out considering the fact that Mr Alwyn Turner's lovely Nashorn kit had one included and I mounted it

[c.rainford73]

Nice tracks Carl, quite effective

viewtopic.php?f=118&t=11468

Mick.

Thanks for this Mick I will employ your tip and make my Tiger I more realistic as Shaun reccomends and the best part is I have all the needed bits and no money needed

[PainlessWolf]

Good morning Carl!
( is having chili cheese fritos for a breakfast snack, I love being older and able to eat what I want ( mostly if the Mate is not watching too closely ) *chuckles* You really have something different here, Doctor. I love those beefy tracks and the colors all work together to show Wars end weary. When you build the tow pintle mount, don't forget to add the pin and chain. Simple to do and really adds to the eye candy effect.
regards,
Painless

[c.rainford73]

To be honest Mr Wolf if it wasn't for your recent acquisition of the beautiful Tiger I from Jack I'd probobly would have left this tank alone and had fun running it as it was but nooooo.....

I had an idea and it was kinda different and decided to run with it. Had a feeling it was too mundane and went and diseccted it. The turret is currently in bits as ive just added Ian's excellent servo recoil and elevation kit. Removed the rear stowage bin and replaced the barrel with a nice new metal one.

If it wasn't for the feedback from everyone who has peered in on this I'd have stopped at the tracks and fenders.

So many thanks as I retreat to my office to keep fiddling away

[c.rainford73]

Nice tracks Carl, quite effective

viewtopic.php?f=118&t=11468

Mick.

Thanks for this Mick I will employ your tip and make my Tiger I more realistic as Shaun reccomends and the best part is I have all the needed bits and no money needed

You're welcome, and took less bytes

And while you're at it, what about these the eagle eyed Jaundice didn't spot were missing. . . . .

viewtopic.php?f=118&t=11473

Mick.

Oh no more details

[Tiggr]

You have done a top job there Carl.

But a Tiger 1 looks like a cat with a haircut with transport tracks on.

[c.rainford73]

You have done a top job there Carl.

But a Tiger 1 looks like a cat with a haircut with transport tracks on. no:

Paul I'm happy to hear this from someone who is so well versed in all things Tiger I. That's the look I was trying to accomplish so the " haircut"if you will is the look I wanted....

A familiar beast with a strange new look

[jarndice]

Carl the easy way to fit clamps to hold your jack on the Tiger 1 is to use the clamps provided to clamp the jack on a Heng Long/Taigen/Torro Panzer 4 in place,
With the smallest of extra work it will look as good as the Tips & Tricks job.
You just pin vise a hole through the top rail of each clamp by the raised hinge,
Push a "Schumo Wing nut and shaft into the hole and pin vise 4 holes into the rear panel to take the clamps,
Slide the clamps around the Jack at each end and fit them into the holes you have drilled,
Using a tool clamp fixed to the rear panel enclose the jack handle to hold it against the rear panel.
All finished.
Shaun.