RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

AlwynTurner wrote:Hi Louis, I think the gun mount position may also be too far forward. It might be worth your while downloading a blueprint - here is one which looks pretty good
https://www.the-blueprints.com/blueprin ... iage_1942/
If you scale that and print it 1/16 size I think you would find it enormously useful - that's what I did when I did my scratch build.

Good luck with the build, it looks as though it will be challenging.

Alwyn

Good link that, found some blueprints for M37 nice one

Off to another great start, Louis. The clarity of the casting on this kit is miles beyond the Juckenburg Nashorn. It's a shame about the inaccuracies, but I've no doubt you'll set them straight.

Hi,

I determined the next best step is to install the upper hull on the chassis to get a clear view of the base. Then I will scratch build the floor and position the gun according to blue prints.

As you can see, the hull was installed and the M4A4 style rear deck was sanded and a replacement plasticard layer closer to the M7 mid production will be build on top. The whole thing will undergo major surgery, specially at the rear end. I need to go to a hobby store to replenish my plasticard reserve, the Nashorn build of last spring depleted it completely.
In the meantime, I received the Shapeways parts that I ordered from shapeways.com. They are real nice. The discount coupon GREETINGS15 gave me 15% off on my order.

These are the M7 Priest gun parts: contain sighting apparatus for both sides of the gun that I was looking for because they are not provided with the Vandra kit, plus other fine parts that I will probably use as replacements. Those sights would take hours to scratch build.
These are parts to convert the Heng Long Sherman M4 bogies into early M3 type that fits the M7 early and mid production. I do not know how they will end up once installed but they are intriguing, well made, functional and solid. I wish I had seen these before my M3 Lee build. They provide the only kit option available that I know of to have M3 suspension. The upper part of the HL M4 bogies need to be cut above the screw hole and replaced by these plugs, 6 are provided. The M4 roller will be re-used. I have great expectations for these. We'll see.
These are early Spoked M4 road wheels, 12 are provided. They really look great. These would be useful on many Sherman types. But spoked idlers are not provided and do not seem to be available.
These are 105mm shell containers. 10 are provided per set. I may order more.
Regards,

Louis

Hi,

Oh, i did not picture them yesterday, they are provided in separate bags. They can be positioned individually.
Louis

Hi Louis
I have this kit as well which I have yet to start so I will be watching this with great interest, Good to know I will have to get another gearbox from a panzer IV.
I have done a Vandramodel M3 and the PAK 40.
If you want to want to manipulate the resin castings with heat use HOT water (I use boiled water in a basin) to soften the resin for few seconds then you can manipulate with your fingers (it is hot by the ways so do short bursts)
Hope that helps
T

Those 3D-printed parts look great, Louis. Which material did you choose? How do you find the print quality?

Raminator wrote:Those 3D-printed parts look great, Louis. Which material did you choose? How do you find the print quality?

Hi,

The parts were printed by Shapeways. I do not know the material they use but the strength is somewhere between resin and plastic. Its the first time I use this material in model building so I will know more in a few weeks. The quality is good as you can see below. The print lines are very thin, well aligned and a close up view is needed to notice them. Almost no preparation is required.
Louis

Nice build!

Watching with interest!

Hi,

This is the basic construction and shapes of the rear hull. Lots of details will need to be added, covers for the lower grills, nuts and bolts, among others.
The M3 hull is not full length, only the central part extend to the rear by around 20cm.

Humm, pictures don't lie, there is something wrong with the shape of the rear plate I did, its going down too low. I will have to rework it. It is also not fully vertical, I must have missed it while doing an adjustment.The idea should be to keep things proportional in relation to the other parts. The Vandra filters are too big and the doors a bit too small in height. The hinge are also not accurate but i have to pick my battles.

regards, Louis

Watching this with interest, being able to obtain those small detail parts, eg the gun assembly, is going to save anyone a lot of work. Can't wait to see it all finished.