RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hah!

They didn't fall of my pershing. That would have been impossible. The HL glue monkey had hit them with the yearly production of glue in Huaxiang-province.. . Ah, those early Heng Longs, blatant tamiya rip-offs/recasts with toy-electronics, but cheap as chips. Broke something? Just buy a new tank. :p . They were, like €39,- to €45,- ( say, 90 guilders overhere in those pre-€ days) or something. That Snow leopard of mine was from a complete bàtch of broken Pershings and Bulldogs. They broke a lòt. QC wasn't exactly Heng Long's strong point.

At that time I couldn't have imagined the quality and range Heng Long would later go on to produce, toyish bb-guns notwithstanding. Their most recent T-90, technological-wise, surpasses Tamiya's first 1/16 rc tank, the Sherman, in só many ways.

The great thing about a fantasy-project like my Zombie-Hunter, however, is that ìf one happens to rip-out part of the tank's hull in attempts to undo the Glue Monkey's handywork, there's another excuse to make a fake cut-and-welded patch. The more of those, the more post-apocalyptic the tank is going to look.

By the by, that real-world tid-bit of using a rope to secure those ammo-boxes should be fairly easy to implement. Stuff like that really add to the "realness" of a model, me thinks.

Thanks for the answers so far lads

Another question for fellow Pershing owners - Is there a way to fully fit the 7.2V battery into the battery compartment on the tank's underside? For me the battery seems just a tad bit too large resulting in a small bulge of the cover piece.

Blackadder123 wrote:Thanks for the answers so far lads

Another question for fellow Pershing owners - Is there a way to fully fit the 7.2V battery into the battery compartment on the tank's underside? For me the battery seems just a tad bit too large resulting in a small bulge of the cover piece.

I dremeled-out a small section in the battery-compartment where the wires would go. Most LiPo packs f.i. fit, if it weren't for the wires and balance-cord, so, oút comes the Dremel. A bit of careful sanding and drilling later, and voilà. Fits.

You could even go as far as completely cutting-out one of the ends of the battery compartment. The packs won't move around too much, if that worries You, their height sorta keeps them in place after the battery-lid goes on.

Or, forego the whole cutting&fitting and buy a small-form 7.4v 2200mah LiPo batery ( say, Turnigy Zippy) LiPo alarm ( !!!) and charger. Wrap the pack in a bit of foam to prevent it from rattling in the battery compartment, and be amazed by the power and endurance. One of my plastic-geared Bulldogs, with the motors with the white nylon back, runs about an hour on that, if not more, even with the smoke generator on. A little shorter in heavy terrain, though. About 40 minutes of bombing around sandpits and hills.

Son of a gun-ner wrote:

Jay-Em wrote: For my zombie-hunting snow leopard ( look it up, rcuniverse, first hit in google.. ) I made some rack-mount bars, fitted to the hull with superglue and some fake welds. Made much more sense, tbh.

Oh wow , I've just checked that out, I have an eleven year old grandson and an extra walker bulldog I wasn't sure what to do with, he's going to love having something like your snow leopard.
Thanks for letting us in on that Jay-Em, isn't it about time you added than in show off on this forum

Mick.

I will, I will. Àfter I fixed some additional details, like a proper jet-engine exhaust at the rear, and something of a fusion-reactor lookalike thingy at the back. (Hey, a rail-gun needs power, a lòt of it )

Jay-Em wrote:

Blackadder123 wrote:Thanks for the answers so far lads

Another question for fellow Pershing owners - Is there a way to fully fit the 7.2V battery into the battery compartment on the tank's underside? For me the battery seems just a tad bit too large resulting in a small bulge of the cover piece.

I dremeled-out a small section in the battery-compartment where the wires would go. Most LiPo packs f.i. fit, if it weren't for the wires and balance-cord, so, oút comes the Dremel. A bit of careful sanding and drilling later, and voilà. Fits.

You could even go as far as completely cutting-out one of the ends of the battery compartment. The packs won't move around too much, if that worries You, their height sorta keeps them in place after the battery-lid goes on.

Or, forego the whole cutting&fitting and buy a small-form 7.4v 2200mah LiPo batery ( say, Turnigy Zippy) LiPo alarm ( !!!) and charger. Wrap the pack in a bit of foam to prevent it from rattling in the battery compartment, and be amazed by the power and endurance. One of my plastic-geared Bulldogs, with the motors with the white nylon back, runs about an hour on that, if not more, even with the smoke generator on. A little shorter in heavy terrain, though. About 40 minutes of bombing around sandpits and hills.

Thanks for the suggestions...... I think I'll go with the smaller battery option. I just looked online and the LiPo batteries seem to all come with a different "head". Did you find a lipo battery that's identical to the normal 7.2V NiMH ones? Or do you have to use an adapter that I also found on Amazon?

If You are not handy with soldering, I'd suggest a small form battery with an adapter. Most full size 7,4v packs have the same problem as the stock battery: They're a tight squeeze. The zippy 2200 LiPo's usually come with a Deans/T-plug, so, an adapter is always a good idea.

I always immediately change the stock Tamiya-connector Heng Long uses for a Deans/T-plug. but, that -as I indicated- needs some soldering expertise and a qualty soldering pistol or iron of at leat 80 watts.

read more here: http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo- ... ector.html It's about helicopters, but the battery/plug descriptions and tips are universal for the RC-hobby.

The fender mounted resupply of ammo was used regularly in Korea. From what I've read sometimes the dust skirts were just cut on that area and modified to act as ammo can holders then bolted back on upside down. Haven't been able to find picture of such a modification but I think the article I read had that info given by a Vet who had done the modification on his tank.