RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

c.rainford73 wrote:

Despotes wrote:I fully charged the original new battery again and noticed it took a lot more to get it to shut down. I did a few 360's on the carpet and only stalled it once spinning in the grass. Would this indicate a battery issue or a much too sensitive low amp/voltage protection circuit? Do I need to run a 3s lipo to keep it from shutting down? lol

Is the battery a lipo or NiMh pack that you are currently running? Sounds like a silly question but the board has to be setup for the right battery.

Yes, as stated above.
NImh Also, 3000mah.

Hi all,

The issue is related to current requested by the board to drive the gearboxes on heavy terrain (in this case the carpet which is the worst condition).
The IBU3 current limit setting will cut the power to protect both board and motors in case of current peak, a 2S li-Po 5000 mAh can give 25C in discharge
which means 125 A peak (quite enough to burn out everything)
In this case what kicks in cutting the power is the battery electro-phisical limit, most of the standard Ni-Mh cannot give more than 4C or 5C so a 3300 mAh battery
will peak out roughly 12A or 15A (at his best).
The issue on audio playing again is related to sudden voltage drop down.
Also you can run a 3S li-Po as well, the only problem will be a not realistic tank speed (for a WW II tank), i run 3S only in modern tank where speed is needed or into my 1/6 scale tanks.
On my 1/6 scale 25 Kg. M5 Stuart (IBU3 equipped) i have the current limit set to 15 A and so far never saw it kick in, even outside on grass or mud.

Feel free to askmore info if needed

Regards

Despotes wrote:

c.rainford73 wrote:

Despotes wrote:I fully charged the original new battery again and noticed it took a lot more to get it to shut down. I did a few 360's on the carpet and only stalled it once spinning in the grass. Would this indicate a battery issue or a much too sensitive low amp/voltage protection circuit? Do I need to run a 3s lipo to keep it from shutting down? lol

Is the battery a lipo or NiMh pack that you are currently running? Sounds like a silly question but the board has to be setup for the right battery.

Yes, as stated above.
NImh Also, 3000mah.

Yeah get yourself a nice lipo, probably voltage sag taking you under the cut off voltage

You could always buy a new carpet and mow the lawn?

My guess is that it is a heavy tank, and has cleated tracks, which is the most evil of combinations when trying to turn on a grippy surface. The cleats all dig in and resist the turning forces. One trick is to chamfer off the edges of the cleats slightly. It stops them digging in.

theibuman wrote:Hi all,

The issue is related to current requested by the board to drive the gearboxes on heavy terrain (in this case the carpet which is the worst condition).
The IBU3 current limit setting will cut the power to protect both board and motors in case of current peak, a 2S li-Po 5000 mAh can give 25C in discharge
which means 125 A peak (quite enough to burn out everything)
In this case what kicks in cutting the power is the battery electro-phisical limit, most of the standard Ni-Mh cannot give more than 4C or 5C so a 3300 mAh battery
will peak out roughly 12A or 15A (at his best).
The issue on audio playing again is related to sudden voltage drop down.
Also you can run a 3S li-Po as well, the only problem will be a not realistic tank speed (for a WW II tank), i run 3S only in modern tank where speed is needed or into my 1/6 scale tanks.
On my 1/6 scale 25 Kg. M5 Stuart (IBU3 equipped) i have the current limit set to 15 A and so far never saw it kick in, even outside on grass or mud.

Feel free to askmore info if needed

Regards

Why would there be a sudden voltage drop just sitting still and revving? The amp sounds like it's being over driven on revv. Are two tracks being played at the same time causing the horrendous crackling static?

I ordered a 2S 5000 mah 50C Lipo. We'll see if that affects performance.

wibblywobbly wrote:You could always buy a new carpet and mow the lawn?

My guess is that it is a heavy tank, and has cleated tracks, which is the most evil of combinations when trying to turn on a grippy surface. The cleats all dig in and resist the turning forces. One trick is to chamfer off the edges of the cleats slightly. It stops them digging in.

Yes, heavy and the tracks have great traction. Can't wait to try it in the snow!

tomhugill wrote:

Despotes wrote:

c.rainford73 wrote: Is the battery a lipo or NiMh pack that you are currently running? Sounds like a silly question but the board has to be setup for the right battery.

Yes, as stated above.
NImh Also, 3000mah.

Yeah get yourself a nice lipo, probably voltage sag taking you under the cut off voltage

Ordered.

Cannon fire also has static. I returned it for repair. We'll see how it goes.

I just ran across this thread, so just curious did the unit turn out bad? and did a new/repaired one solve the issue?

It occurred to me that no one mentioned wire/connector issues between the battery and the IBU3 controller? I just had my Taigen Panther give low voltage signals with the stock wiring when turning on carpet. I replace the wiring with 16 gauge silicone and it now doesn't give the low battery signal. Also the tamiya connector and the small connector to the board are marginally rated for the current required so ensuring they are tight and clean are important.

Jerry Rude
Roseburg, OR USA