RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Thinking about this some more, I seem to recall using a paste based material to solder brass. Simply paint the areas you want to joint and sweat the joint with a solering iron.
I had  looksie and found this site:

http://www.interhobmodels.com/id17.html
C1040 188 degree solder paint (liquid mixture of solder and flux) 22.95 - this sounds like the stuff I used. I was building a OO guage railway carraige kit with just a normal soldering iron, nothing fancy.

when i built the parts for my bulldog i used normal electricians solder and soldering iron

see the full build with brass here http://www.hobbyhavoc.com/forum/index.php?topic=725.0

Hi,

Using electrical solder is supposedly a mortal sin and definately not recommended. However, I am convinced this is a myth created by the manuracturers to sell more different types of solder.
I've used normal electrical solder for low stress joints on small parts for years and never had a problem. I do use Bakers flux in addition, and thoroughly clean the joint afterwards with PCB cleaner.

I've also used a silver solder paste similar to the one mentioned by Ex Pat Tanker. Very easy to use, but I found it expensive compared to a solder stick and flux.

Peter

Oh yeah, 22.95 buys you a *very* small jar of the stuff - think of the smaller Tamiya paint jars, but about half the height

Hi The differant solders for tinning and assembly are differant to electrical solders ,because they dont have flux in them you need to flux the parts you ars soldering makes it so you get solder just where you want it with electrical solder having flux inside it you cant be sure where it is going to go .If you use an extra flux along with electrical solder it works the same as tinning solder,it will flow to the flux you have on the parts .There is another acid flux so you can solder things like stainless and high nickle content metals ,I havnt tried it on aluminium or white metal which is normaly imposible to solder .

regards pete