Panzer III

[silversurfer1947]

I have been occupied with other things, but have managed to make a little progress. I attacked the lower hull with my Dremel. Butchered would probably be a better description. I tried a number of different attachments at varying speeds, but found they all tended to melt the plastic rather than cut or grind it away. Anyway, what's done is done.

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The upper hull is pretty much as it arrived. A you can see it is minus a lot of the fitments. I have acquired various bits which I will fit shortly.

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One of the extra I purchased was replacement clean air inlets, which are open at the top. Obviously, I need to remove the old ones. I was hoping they would be badly fitted and therefore easy to remove. However, these seem to be well glued in.

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Can anyone recommend the simplest way to do this. without damaging the hull? Is it just a matter of very gentle cutting or is there a better alternative? Any other helpfu suggestions will be most welcome.

This is the first time I have attempted anything like this so please excuse what are probably stupid questions, but I really don't want to cock it up.

[jarndice]

Hi Richard,
Two thoughts, How are you fitting the CLARK board,?
I ask because the CLARK board (TK20) is exactly the same size as the Heng Long RX18 board and fits into the RX18 Holder, So wherever the RX18 went there should go the CLARK board,
The other thought is How old is Spartans PZ111 ?
If it is old stock then I would recommend "ZAP 7" Debonder and if it is new stock you need a Debonder that is better able to deal with ABS instead of the old Plastic such as "BONDLOC" or "Everbuild Stick2 Superglue De-Bonder",
They all need a lot of product painted over the item to be removed and then you should gently I SAID GENTLY!!! try to move the item to help to free it from the glues clutches,
Do remember to clean the debonder from the whole area that it was in contact with.
Shaun.

[silversurfer1947]

The original board was stuck vertically to the left hand side of the hull by the battery box.. When I tried the Clark board for size, the position of the various sockets and wires stopped it going there. Also, the speaker was similarly fixed, so half its output was blocked. I have no idea how old it is, but the tools seem to be moulded rather than an extra, which, if I interpret other posts elsewhere, indicates that it is the old model. To be on the safe side, I will order up both of your suggestions. Thanks for the heads up.

[jarndice]

Richard There is something else I should have mentioned,
Whenever I get a Tank Old or New I strip the interior and fix whatever needs fixing then I coat the floor with a contact adhesive and lay a sheet of pre-cut "Velcro" on it then I glue the Female of the Male "Velcro" on the base of everything that will be fitted in the Hull,
That way no drilling or cutting and everything is in the place you want it to be until you want to move it,
If the Battery when on its side is below or level with the Hull edge then A strip of "Velcro" on the Hull side and similar on the side of the Battery will give you a two pence answer to a ten pound problem. I hope that helps.
Shaun.

[silversurfer1947]

Hi Shaun, it certainly does. I have attached individual items in my Panther using Velcro strip, but had not thought of just covering the whole base of the tank.

[silversurfer1947]

I've just had a look at the hull top to see if there is anything obvious still missing. Standing out like a sore thumb from its absence is the aerial stowage, which should it on the right hand side of the vehicle, to protect the aerial when it is folded down. I have had a look at various sites but have not been able to find one. Does anyone know where they can be obtained, or even does anyone have one they no longer need, please? I think they are identical to the same thing on a Panzer IV.

[jarndice]

Hi Richard,
I thought I had an Aerial locating channel but I am afraid not,
It is only a bit of Plastic channel so if you have the right dimensions you should be able to do it yourself.
The Channel is 11 cms long by 5mm wide and 5mm deep with the width of the channel at 2mm the piece is held in place by a couple of brackets which you can easily make from off cuts.
Sorry I cannot help further.
Shaun.

[silversurfer1947]

Thanks for the information. I am sure I use your information to good effect.

[philipat]

For removing the engine vents, I can't tell if yours is glued in or clipped in (like mine). Either way, the clip is part of it. You have good debonder recommendations. For the clip, see my posts. The second photo shows the clip release.

Engine vent work:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-tank ... st11523787 (post #8) (post #9 for Ausf M mods)

Antenna tray:
I lost mine, too, which is why I ended up making my own. It's a little work, but looks a lot better than the plastic piece. You can use balsa wood and brass.

Antenna relocation: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-tank ... st11523824 (post #10)
Antenna bracket: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-tank ... st11524868 (post #17)


Alternatively, Aliexpress is a good source for parts relatively cheap: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?ca ... tank+parts

PzIII parts: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?ca ... +LONG+3848

Antenna tray (I think, hard to tell in the picture): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HENG-LO ... 4e032a2bf1

[silversurfer1947]

Hi Richard,
If it is old stock then I would recommend "ZAP 7" Debonder and if it is new stock you need a Debonder that is better able to deal with ABS instead of the old Plastic such as "BONDLOC" or "Everbuild Stick2 Superglue De-Bonder",
They all need a lot of product painted over the item to be removed and then you should gently I SAID GENTLY!!! try to move the item to help to free it from the glues clutches,
Do remember to clean the debonder from the whole area that it was in contact with.
Shaun.

That ZAP 7 is magic stuff. One application plus a bit of judicious prodding and off popped the air intakes. Thank you