RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

frankie wrote:...stretched the chassis to make it more a4 spec...

Frankie,

Would you have a drawing, sketch or pictures showing where you made the cuts?

TIA,
Barry

I'm curious how you cut it also, though I am not brave enough to attempt it myself
Cheers

The chassis is just cut with a razor saw..the bogies need to be 100mm centre to centre..there's a filler piece which keeps everything lined up and then it's braced..in reality there should also be an extension between the last bogie and the idler mount but I've found so many different measurements to the centre of the idler on real ones due to the track adjustment I figured I could get away with it...

The elevation motor uses the HL style mounts so when the commanders hatch is open there is a solid plate, so I've mounted the motor differently allowing me to open up the hatch...

Quick and neat work as always, Frankie; the hull extension is especially tidy. Is this one a keeper?

..haven't decided yet but probably going to get sold on...

...factory fresh paint...

Thanks for the tips! It's looking good Frankie.
You work quick

Hi Frank its looking sweet ,Nice detail on the kit. I did an m4a4 and when I did it I put 8mm in each of the boggie cuts and 9 mm at the rear to the idler. Havnt got a clue if they are correct its what Septon said they should be . Think ex-pat might know but no way of asking him.


regards pete


P.s someone told me the hull was 16 inch longer on the real m4a4 so that means model should be 1 inch longer.

Like I say not sure if its true , and leave it at that we can discuss it on another post don't want to highjack such a great build /

The 8mm between bogies is the same as I put in mine, I got the minions on the case last time at Bovvy but like I say there's so much variation on the rear idlers (even between left and right on bovvys a4) that I just eyed it and said that'll do...