RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

How about a hole saw set from Bunnings ?
They have them cheap and you can turn it by hand if necessary.

scalawag wrote:The rotation gear boxes routinely squeal in one or both directions, sometimes this can be improved by adjusting the motor worm gear to centre it better on the gear which it drives.

The Hi intensity flash will tend to whine through the speaker whilst it charges (they work like old style camera flashes do). These work well with H/L and Taigen systems however, since you have an IBU2 I would suggest trying an LED flash instead. I use 3mm hi intensity white LEDs. I think this will give you a more pleasing muzzle flash.

Good to know, thanks for the advice Paul. I think I'll take your suggestion to use a 3 mm LED for the muzzle flash; a 1:16 scale 76.2 mm barrel is only 4.7 mm in diameter, and the high-intensity flash won't fit inside it without some serious surgery. Bit of an oversight on my part!

HERMAN BIX wrote:How about a hole saw set from Bunnings ?
They have them cheap and you can turn it by hand if necessary.

That's a good idea, I might see if I can get one at 90-odd millimetres (or one that can be adjusted to it). I'll stop by after work and see what's on offer.

Cheers for the help, guys. I appreciate it!

Hello Dan , I use an OLFA compass cutter for doing holes , most art stores stock them B.

Yup, that's the one I was waiting on! No luck with the hole saw, so I'm glad I got it ordered in; it made quick work of the styrene sheets in the hull top.

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Once that was done, got the roof of the fighting compartment cemented and clamped on.

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I tried a few different arrangements for the turret rotation motor, but ended up supergluing a few M3 nuts in place so it can be bolted on. It seemed like the most foolproof method.

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Just a quick shot with everything placed on top to make sure that nothing is visible from outside the tank, or interfering with the fit and finish.

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I'm really happy with how it's coming together so far, I think it looks the part and I haven't even bled yet!

The next step is trying to figure out how I can mount the elevation/recoil unit in the turret while leaving enough room for the IR apple to plug in.

Class act mate, love it.
It's sitting right like you say and so far you made it look easy.

Brilliant work! I will be stealing with pride!

Turret rotation motors can be mounted very securely using 3M automotive double sided trim tape, this is what I use and it works very well.

Thanks again for the kind words guys, glad you're enjoying following along.

A little detour before figuring out the turret mechanicals; mounting the turret to the hull. Again, lots of detail on the interior, but those boltheads get in the way and had to be removed.

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Having cut them off, I could then get a styrene plate in there to bolt them turret rotation gear to.

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Got a chance to get everything plugged in for a test run, too:

Not much accomplished this week, I've spent most of my time trying to figure out how to get the Asiatam elevation/recoil unit fitted to the turret in such a way that it'll actually work. I think I'm going to have to give up and go for servos instead. If that's the case, at least I'll be able to reuse the gun mounting I've made up:

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I know the IBU2 Pro can use a servo for gun elevation, but is there some way I can fudge it in for the base IBU2?

Thank you for sharing. Subscribed!