RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Thanks Alpha you've been a great help. It's almost as if the sproket teeth are a different pitch to the tracks. Still, it will have to wait as I have been nagged into replacing a shower tray, howare you with them?

What kind of metal sprockets did you get? They're not always compatible from brand to brand, even though they should be. Also check for burrs or imperfections in the sprocket teeth that could be interfering with smooth engagement.

Taigen - to fit Heng Long.

You're going to tell me that's wrong now, aren't you?

I can't say if it's wrong, but I can't say that's not the problem. I always try to use the same brand tracks and sprockets and so far I haven't had any trouble.

DRC wrote:Thanks Alpha you've been a great help. It's almost as if the sproket teeth are a different pitch to the tracks. Still, it will have to wait as I have been nagged into replacing a shower tray, howare you with them?

I've had some problems with Taigen tracks...occasionally they do need a little tweek here and there...giving them a good massage by squeezing each link carefully helps...and judging from what I've read ...some light filing of those sprockets might do some good as well
What I would probably do in your shoes is to massage the tracks...then run the sprockets through them...wrapping the tracks around all the teeth ...if there is a hang up on a tooth ...file it ..might take 20 mins or so...but it will make them perform a little smoother

ALPHA

I'm wondering if it's the tank's weight. The only thing I haven't changed is the suspension arms which are still plastic and when you view the tank from the front the right hand side road wheels are splayed out as if some boy racer has added a load of negative camber. It is the right track that seems to be worse and the track wants to roll off to the outside when running and I'm wondering if the splayed out road wheels are forcing the track off the sprocket.

I've added a lot of weight to the chassis and was going to replace the suspension arms with a set of metal ones before painting. To give you some idea of what weight I've added there are about a hundred large washers epoxy'd into the plastic road wheels. Instead of buying some metal ones I took the hollow HL wheels and went down to our local steel stockist and they had just the right size of MS washer to slip over the axles and fill the interior. Each large wheel got 4 and the slimmer ones got 3, I smothered the lot in liquid metal and waited for them to melt (they didn't). Each wheel now weighs about three to four ounces.

I also found that it was cheaper to glue a column of two pence pieces together to support the receiver then to pay for someone to cut me a suitable support (50p is just about the right height. Two pence pieces also make good strengthening plates glued to the hull on the inside where the rear idlers attach.

DRC wrote:I'm wondering if it's the tank's weight. The only thing I haven't changed is the suspension arms which are still plastic and when you view the tank from the front the right hand side road wheels are splayed out as if some boy racer has added a load of negative camber. It is the right track that seems to be worse and the track wants to roll off to the outside when running and I'm wondering if the splayed out road wheels are forcing the track off the sprocket.

I've added a lot of weight to the chassis and was going to replace the suspension arms with a set of metal ones before painting. To give you some idea of what weight I've added there are about a hundred large washers epoxy'd into the plastic road wheels. Instead of buying some metal ones I took the hollow HL wheels and went down to our local steel stockist and they had just the right size of MS washer to slip over the axles and fill the interior. Each large wheel got 4 and the slimmer ones got 3, I smothered the lot in liquid metal and waited for them to melt (they didn't). Each wheel now weighs about three to four ounces.

I also found that it was cheaper to glue a column of two pence pieces together to support the receiver then to pay for someone to cut me a suitable support (50p is just about the right height. Two pence pieces also make good strengthening plates glued to the hull on the inside where the rear idlers attach.

Wheels are usually un sprung weight ....which shouldn't be an issue really...but if those washers cause and unbalance during rotation the wheels could be the problem...don't think so though....you might try clocking your springs on the side that is drooping...also check and make sure none of them are snagging....My latest HL ...the M1 had an over tightened idler...It would pull...and then that side track would start to come off...fixed the idler and now the problem is gone ...My Sherman is almost ten pounds...Which is kind of heavy for a HL...it has no tracking or de tracking going on...reason I doubt it's your weight


ALPHA