RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Meh, think I'll just stick with the initial idea of upgrading the parts inside the turret. I suddenly realised how much money I was pouring into theese cheap tanks, when I'd rather save the money and use them for upgrades on the Taigen tanks or a new tank instead.

I think I have the parts found out, for upgrading the T-34. Tiger 1 seems to be a no-brainer (i hope!!)
Theese part should do the trick, yes?
http://www.rctank.de/STUG-III-elevation-motor?lang=eng
http://www.rctank.de/HENG-LONG-GUN-ACTI ... T?lang=eng
http://www.rctank.de/High-Voltage-xenon ... t?lang=eng
http://www.rctank.de/Tiger-I-gun-action ... r?lang=eng

Apart from being the cheaper solution, I think it will be a fun experience, to try this, instead of just swapping the hulls/turrets

Arnie, it will definitely be more interesting if you are handy and like to get your hands dirty. The parts listed are the ones you need anyway. You will still need a cable set of some sort to get everything hook up to the Taigen MFU though:

http://www.rctank.de/Cable-Kit-for-RX-1 ... board-Unit

The elevation unit you have in mind for the T34 needs an additional part that might not be on your recoil unit. You should check with Dominique at rctank.de when you order it. It is a small part and you can probably make one out yourself but here it is anyway. It sits on the side of the recoil unit so that the notch on the elevation unit can pull it up and down.

http://tankarmy.com/heng-long-tank/prod ... nit-p-1631

Good luck and I am sure you will have lots of question once you are ready to start !

MichaelC.

Thank you Michael

Wires are on my list as well. Added them after you adviced me to the first time
Will check this bit with Dominique. He have already been very helpfull to me and stood up with my endless emails of questions!

I am not really new to model making. Have made normal model kits, since I was a kid and have played warhammer 40K for some years, so assembly and painting I am very confident at. But it is a first for RC and electronics, so yeah. Once I get started I will probably spam this forum with questions hehe.

I finally have a few days to look at making this conversion...and I might need some advice

Got the Tiger opened up, and wanted to start simply by replacing the plastic gears, with metal ones, but I cant get the last gear out of the gearbox and I'm not keen on using too much force and risk braking it, if there is a better way.

The wires inside the tank itself, is one big mess of wires criss crossing everywhere, and I am tempted, to just rip everything out of it. Literally. Likely breaking some wires. Yes or no to this aproach?
I have the Taigen 2.4 kit I want to install. I dont think its necesarry to save anything, except the Turret rotation motor, MG and front light.

A few pictures, to better explain what I mean, and replacement parts I have.

How do I get these out?


Can I rip this out, without fear?




The parts I want in: Smoke unit. Elevation unit. Xenon Flash Unit. IR kit. Taigen 2.4ghz board and speaker (not pictured).


Hope someone can point me in the right direction here

For the Tiger I, you are just keeping the rotation and the elevation motor units, so my advice is to rip everything out, especially since you can't re-use any of the connectors or wiring without tracing them anyway. The wiring for the elevation and rotation unit is very straight forward with Taigen.

Think I am on the right track, but I still have some wires, I'm not sure about, where to put...

Arnie,

The Taigen set of wires come with two 2 pin ones for the motor which you don't need since you are re-using the motor leads from the WSN....... Also, I noticed that you have purchased a proportional smoker, which means that you will have to wire them up to the motor leads to control the proportion part. The elevation, rotation, headlights and MG all go onto the 8 pin cable but you are missing this piece I think:
If you are handy you don't really need it and can try to connect them directly to the MFU. Also this might help as well:
There should also be a 3 pin wires for the volume control. If you don't care for it you don't need it. Just jump pin 1 and pin 3 and you are at max volume.

Michael.

The MG and light needs some soldering anyway, so will skip using that board. Thanks, wasnt sure it could be done.

I found this diagram, I think might work, but instead of soldering/connecting the MG, Lights and rotation unit to the board, I will just make it into an 8-pin connector, yes?

For sure. You can snip the connector on one end and just solder the wires to it directly, or if you have the tool just create different plugs and hook them up that way. You don't really need the board.

Can I get a yay or nay on this setup?

And I found a board of sorts, in the wsn tank, that will make soldering a lot easier