RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Part 1

https://tiger1.info/EN/Feifel-air-precleaners.html

https://panzerplace.eu/a-versatile-duct/

Part 2

Hexagonal spiral metal ducts that were/are(the same stuff is still available) resistant to crushing.
Flexible steel joints for pipework use the same design today.

HERMAN BIX wrote: ↑Mon Jan 22, 2024 8:35 am https://panzerplace.eu/a-versatile-duct/

Part 2

Hexagonal spiral metal ducts that were/are(the same stuff is still available) resistant to crushing.
Flexible steel joints for pipework use the same design today.

Thank you for sharing this Mr. Bix. Now I have a better understanding how the real flexible pipe/hose interlocks, moves and connects. So using braided hose for our tanks is common, my Taigen came with it as opposed to my HL which has the smooth plastic tubes.

Do you have any suggestions for the hoses? Or are we still using TV coax?

Years ago I tried all manner of home made air intake pipes but finally I bit the bullet and bought an ABER PE set, It is easy to use and looks right,
I work on the principle that if a company specialises in Model PE then they are more likely to know what they are doing than I do.
If you have ever rolled a cigarette then assembling the ABER PE set is going to be a doddle.

jarndice wrote: ↑Mon Jan 22, 2024 2:33 pm If you have ever rolled a cigarette then assembling the ABER PE set is going to be a doddle.

Is it meant to be tapered

Thanks for that advice though.
Did you use breaking down magnets when you used this setup?
I've been trying to find the build that used little magnets.

Yes but it was frustrating getting it right, and I don't care what method you use to make the quick release of body from hull easier they are all in one way or another a pain for as long as you have the air filters on the back.
The good thing about using the ABER PE is it makes the rubber tube stiff which helps when you want to seperate the hinged air filter pipe (With Magnet)from the air intake pipe.
Trust me you will spend a lot of time experimenting before you get it to work. Indeed the only good thing that came from it was it finally drove me to drink.
Every Tiger 1 that I have built I have promised myself I would find a better way,
Still trying,
Got another Tiger 1 early still in its box to try and finally get it right.

I used very small neodymium magnets on my Feifel system. They're round, and measure about 3mm wide by 3mm thick. I glued one into the back of each filter assembly and another into a hole I drilled into the rear plate. Then I rigidly glued all of the Feifel parts together from the filters to the engine hatch cover, (and, I glued the cover to the hatch and assembled the bolted hold0downs over the pipes). Lastly, I cut off the pins that make the engine hatch hinges work. Now, when I want to open up the hull, I remove the whole Feifel system (along with the engine hatch), and the hull deck is easy to remove.

A good idea,
My end result after years of trying everything was to Glue Neodymion magnets to the back of the Tank Air Filters and another on the inside of the rear plate,
I am able now to lift the Quick release and release the Air Cleaners at the sametime from the back plate.

I have used your suggestion and its brilliant!! Looks much better than the shiny heng long ones. Thank you!

I was watching a video on early Tigers the other night and it showed a short clip of a Tiger driving by and the crew rather than re-attaching the air intake tubes had them hanging off the hull side over the track cable near the front. So it's another legit option for anyone who dislikes constantly removing them from the filters to get inside their tank