RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi Tony, It does look like you could happily loose a track link from the left hand side.
The accepted tension indicator for a Tiger 1 is that the track after it leaves the front sprocket, first touches down on the third road wheel, If earlier then the track is too slack and later too tight BUT and I emphasise BUT, trial and error will ensure that the tension is right for your Tiger 1.
I do not know if you have a track tensioner in a HENG LONG Tiger 1 if not then I would recommend HENNTEC's tensioner. shaun

I agree with Mr Jarndice. Looks like it COULD lose a link. BUT, if your tank has plastic gearsets, tight metal tracks will kill them quick.
The top-end steel tracks I used on my Tiger were tighter on one side than the other, but this was from new & just fitted.
Once it was run around a bit, things seemed to even out.
This of course was with no tensioner fitted, & the Henntec units look to be the silver bullet when faced with this issue.

That idler you have in the pictures.............although painted silver, I suspect its plastic. That will play a major part in your track issues.
If its not a metal idler, best change to metal ones.
Let us know how you get on

Thanks guys, in the end I took a link out of both sides and it now seems to run more smoothly and has corrected the problem of the track catching on the chassis. HERMAN BIX I think you are correct the front sprocket appears to be metal but the idler wheel plastic, so I'll have a look for some metal replacements.

jarndice I think fitting a tensioner may be beyond me at the moment, bear in mind this is my first model and being technically challenged, I don't think I would take on a task like that yet.

I do note that Welsh Dragon have a Taigen lower hull, this one: http://www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk/taig ... -512-p.asp

Would this fit the upper hull of my tank? If so it would solve two problems, firstly the quick release for the upper hull and secondly the pre-fitted track tension adjuster. Bearing in mind my technically challenged comment, do you think I would be capable of taking out the components from one and fitting them into the other, is it relatively simple? Or I'm I throwing away good money after bad, and should buy a decent Taigen tank. Thanks again for your help and suggestions.

Tony

Tony without a second thought do it.
That is what I and many other members of this pool for the fiscally challenged do all the time.
As to the transference of parts from one to the other if you have a problem we are here and there is plenty of experience both on the builds section and of course Forum members.
Go for it, this is the HOOK with which this hobby properly catches you
And of course you could upgrade to a TAIGEN METAL TURRET
Go on it is only money.shaun

Well after much soul searching, I have the Taigen hull and metal wheels on order with Forgebear. So hopefully I will be able to fit everything ok and solve my issue which is the track constantly slipping off the right side, one set of teeth slips to the outside of the idler wheel, the tank actually runs ok oddly but I find it annoying. To me its a design fault the idler wheel simply screwed into a plastic lug which seems to bend under pressure.

Anyway looking forward assuming I complete this initial task, I will have a metal lower hull metal tracks, wheels and gearbox, Whats next? upgrade the electronics?

Thing is thinking of the final cost, if you had a HL Tiger how much would you spend on upgrading? Is it worthwhile?

Tony

You might need a new drive sprocket dude, is this tank a heng long 'pro' with metal tracks and white metal gearboxes? And are they taigen gearboxes your getting? If yes to both you will need a new sprocket as there different sizes

Tony Hi, If you are serious about upgrading your electronic's you have two simple choices,
That is, if you want to just take out the plugs in your RX18 and plug them into a better alternative without having to do much else,
so you have the CLARK board for about £90, unfortunately the UK dealer is "TANKZONE"boo hiss also to be found on the BLACKLIST.
the other Board which in my considered opinion is a world better and has "TANKBEAR" as a member of this Forum is the IBU2 or the IBU2+ which is indeed plug and play and goes for about £130, what you must remember is if you do decide to buy one of these boards you will also have to buy a new TRANSMITTER and RECEIVER.
now your question about the amount of money you will spend on upgrading your Tank, The question is similar to the one that goes "If you have to ask the price of a ROLLS ROYCE then you cannot afford it" Why not pop down to your bank and arrange an overdraft facility before you overdraw, it will save you money. shaun

Thanks, I have looked at the IBU2, so something for the future.

Yes spongehoob its the Pro Version metal gearbox (don't know the make) tracks and sprocket are metal, got from Hobby power: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220903358635? ... MEBIDX%3AI
Getting new metal idlers but Forgebear has not mentioned that I will need new sprocket wheels.

Tony

I would check dude, there are 2 different able sizes, henglong is 7.99mm and taigen are 8.06mm , not alot of difference but it matters trust me!

Thanks spongehoobtank82 checked and turns out I would need new lower hull, idlers/spigots/gearbox/tracks and with metal road wheels as well might as well buy a new tank! Wish I'd been told that in the first place! Only found out by asking more and more questions.

Seems crazy as I like it, but the wonky idler wheels drive me nuts, so been thinking How about fitting an axle to new metal idler wheels, with metal axle bearers fitted to the hull, think it's probably beyond my capabilities but does it sound feasible? Or should I just sell it for parts, it has all metal track which alone are quite expensive, could I get say £60 for it? Cost £115 inc postage 2 weeks ago.

Thanks

Tony