RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

ALWYN, there is a product available from hobby shops and on line called "ZAP7" it is marketed by "RIPMAX" and is a DEBONDER, there are two kinds of debonder on the market, there is the debonder that is used to separate your fingers when they get stuck by superglue and there is ZAP7 which I use to strip off any part of my Tank that has been superglued together,squeeze some of it over the idler and gently work the idler so that the liquid can get in to do its work.ZAP7 eats superglue, after you have finished do clean the area that had any liquid on. shaun

Thanks Shaun, that's my next purchase! Cheers Alwyn

AlwynTurner wrote:Well I've found a youtube video on how to split the idler wheel, but someone's been there before me and superglued the thing back together so that's a non-starter. However, I found this :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKzLpVoKzys
and tried it, and it worked. Obviously this is a temporary fix until I get round to doing some serious upgrading, at which point I will do a proper fix with the appropriate parts. It is becoming obvious that this tank has been very well used (and abused) so some serious tlc looks to be required in future. At least I can try the tank and see what else turns up on the fix list. Hopefully I can have a trial run on Sunday at the Hyde meet.

Thanks everyone for their input and a happy ending!
Regards
Alwyn

Alwyn....stuff like that will happen...no matter what brand of tank you purchase...instead of the Zip Tie...if you want a more permanent and strong repair...get some brass tube..approx the same size as the protruding Idler mount...cut it to length...and force it on ...it will do the same thing as that zip tie...but be much cleaner in appearance and performance...since the previous owner did drill a hole for the idler to be unscrewed....to get the idler off ...pull on the idler while you are unscrewing it...the outward pressure will make the wheel come off...once you get the wheel off....you can proceed with the repair I mentioned...it's a good solid way to do it without spending too much ...a brass tube might cost you 5 dollars or less...and the method can be used to repair any of the wheel towers...not just the idler

ALPHA

Thanks Alpha, that sounds like a really good plan. I suspect I'm going to be finding more of the same, and at some point a lower hull purchase may be the way to go, but for the time being I can have some fun without the clickety-clack of the faulty idler. Thanks all again for the advice and support.
Regards Alwyn

AlwynTurner wrote:Thanks Alpha, that sounds like a really good plan. I suspect I'm going to be finding more of the same, and at some point a lower hull purchase may be the way to go, but for the time being I can have some fun without the clickety-clack of the faulty idler. Thanks all again for the advice and support.
Regards Alwyn

It's always rewarding to hear when a problem gets solved Alwyn....even when the solution was done on your own...I'd say that's the best... Enjoy your tank...and don't worry ...they all need servicing now and then...reason I have more than one

ALPHA

Hi all I thought I would mention I too found the solution to my "clicking track" problem. I did check for sloppy idler wheels but all seemed fine but on closer inspection of the idler I noticed there was what looked like a mould burr and the track seemed to be catching on that. A bit of emery paper later and no more clicks. Thanks to all for the different solutions and advice.