RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi Tom ,just ask Dave (forgebear)he will set you up with a set.By the way they come in 3 different sizes now ,long, short and ones for heng long sherman which are different to the others.Just to confuse you more.

regards pete

Lord Haw-Haw wrote:FYI, HL T-34 metal track/drive wheels uses a shorter shaft as I just converted a Pershing steel to T34 by swapping the output shafts and final steel gear. ...Also had to grind the inner-rear-housings-lower edge (leaving just enough meat to hold the bushing) for chassis clearance. Hope this help those who want to upgrade to steel, as there isn't one specific for the T-34 yet.

UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHH...Why didn't you just swap housings?

ALPHA

ALPHA wrote:

Lord Haw-Haw wrote:FYI, HL T-34 metal track/drive wheels uses a shorter shaft as I just converted a Pershing steel to T34 by swapping the output shafts and final steel gear. ...Also had to grind the inner-rear-housings-lower edge (leaving just enough meat to hold the bushing) for chassis clearance. Hope this help those who want to upgrade to steel, as there isn't one specific for the T-34 yet.

UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHH...Why didn't you just swap housings?

ALPHA

-had already soldered the bushings in the yet to be broken-in boxes before realizing "that" T-34 version detail

Lord Haw-Haw wrote:

ALPHA wrote:

Lord Haw-Haw wrote:FYI, HL T-34 metal track/drive wheels uses a shorter shaft as I just converted a Pershing steel to T34 by swapping the output shafts and final steel gear. ...Also had to grind the inner-rear-housings-lower edge (leaving just enough meat to hold the bushing) for chassis clearance. Hope this help those who want to upgrade to steel, as there isn't one specific for the T-34 yet.

UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHH...Why didn't you just swap housings?

ALPHA

-had already soldered the bushings in the yet to be broken-in boxes before realizing "that" T-34 version detail

You solder your bearings ?

ALPHA

ALPHA wrote: You solder your bearings ?
ALPHA

Yes soldered -electronic not plumbing style,
These where my first go. Read about it some forum, shimming was covered too (brass washers).

Runs much smoother, the gears will spin for seconds by themselves after twisting the shafts and very little vibration felt in your hand as they spin. None of that buzz sound/vibration from the mesh changing under changing speeds and loads. All this carried over in tank under 480 torque's.

I found also that I had to tweak the housings a little on both of the right gearboxes (another set for my Pershing) made me think it's was manufacturing process problem. Fix for me was slotting the housing's screw thru-holes where they sandwich (bottom). After the cross bracing was a final torque and the screws with slotted holes NOT fully torqued, hand spin test, tap with jewellers hammer till "true" fully torque screws, retest, repeat if needed. I use a bicycle "dry" chain wax during this alignment procedure, after words cleaned and super-glued screws and sandwich seam. Then applied a motorcycle "sticky" chain lube. Spin test after mounted in chassis, all settings didn't change

Lord Haw-Haw wrote:

ALPHA wrote: You solder your bearings ?
ALPHA

Yes soldered -electronic not plumbing style,
These where my first go. Read about it some forum, shimming was covered too (brass washers).

Runs much smoother, the gears will spin for seconds by themselves after twisting the shafts and very little vibration felt in your hand as they spin. None of that buzz sound/vibration from the mesh changing under changing speeds and loads. All this carried over in tank under 480 torque's.

I found also that I had to tweak the housings a little on both of the right gearboxes (another set for my Pershing) made me think it's was manufacturing process problem. Fix for me was slotting the housing's screw thru-holes where they sandwich (bottom). After the cross bracing was a final torque and the screws with slotted holes NOT fully torqued, hand spin test, tap with jewellers hammer till "true" fully torque screws, retest, repeat if needed. I use a bicycle "dry" chain wax during this alignment procedure, after words cleaned and super-glued screws and sandwich seam. Then applied a motorcycle "sticky" chain lube. Spin test after mounted in chassis, all settings didn't change

OOOOOOOOOO .........KAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY
I know the Pershing is a tough chassis to deal with... not sure how they get the gearboxes in that one as I've had to remove one of the screw towers for the hull...But dang Haw Haw...before doing all that... wouldn't it have been easier to compare the gearboxes first

The silver lining is you were able to share the lesson with all of us... Thank you for that

Happy Tanking LHH

ALPHA