RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Thank you Michael

About the wire number 3, as suggested in a forum I have welded a wire to the welding of the black wire becoming frome the battery on the on/off switch of the tank. See the white wire in the attached picture. This wire will be connected to the red single wire (numer 3) becoming from the turret. Is this procedure correct?

That's correct, the black wire from the battery which is the Neg- for the return of the recoil.

MichaelC.

I think to have made all the connections correct but when I start the tank no reactions from the turret (no recoil no elevation, no flash). And some seconds after the start the driving weels of the tank turn by continuos fits (similar to a continuos push on the button "K" of the transmitter ( fire with recoil of the tanks)....

Okay Teo it sounds like the recoil switch is not cutting off and that's why the tank keep recoiling and won't do anything else. Do you think you can send some pics on how it is hook up right now ?

Thank you Michael for your help .

This is the global view of the wiring

This is the particular of the connections to the little square board. I connected to that a new little board that fit perfectly with the cable 4 (3 wires cable).
The green wire is considering the little board the recoil wire. The black wire is the motor elevation one. The red is the shared cable (as you explained to me ) .

This mod works perfectly with my old turret. And is good because I can easly separate the turret from the upper hull.

I tested the new turret with this wire configuration and also changing the position of the black and green wire in the new board. That because I opened the turret but the interesting cables was hidden.

In all the tests the same described problem...

I'm not expert of elctronic..

Sorry the pictures

Teo, extra wiring you did with the little 8 pin board is fine, makes testing easier. It sounded like your recoil switch is not cutting out and that's why the tank keeps recoiling. Can you try unplugging the two pin plugs that plugs into the 5 pin plug with the yellow and white wiring ? CN3 pin 4/5. This is what triggers the recoiling. Unplug this and see what the tank does.

I think the recoil cable might to reverse the polarity but see what happens when you unplug it.

MichaelC.

MichaelC wrote:Teo, extra wiring you did with the little 8 pin board is fine, makes testing easier. It sounded like your recoil switch is not cutting out and that's why the tank keeps recoiling. Can you try unplugging the two pin plugs that plugs into the 5 pin plug with the yellow and white wiring ? CN3 pin 4/5. This is what triggers the recoiling. Unplug this and see what the tank does.

I think the recoil cable might to reverse the polarity but see what happens when you unplug it.

MichaelC.

Are you talking about the cable number 2 in position CN3? Should I unplug the pins black and red on the right of that 5 pin plug?

About the polarity I'm not expert, I can only say that when I tested the little square board to find the elevation and recoil positions one of two went in positive the other in negative (I've not the scale in my tester but it went under the zero )