paint remover

[wibblywobbly]

There is an easier way, I use the same 'base silver method'. I then use a rotary wire brush in a dremel to expose it through the top coat...and yes it looks a bit bright, so what I then do is apply gunmetal weathering powder and that dulls it back down again.

[wibblywobbly]

For Blake:

The IR sensors are mounted in little styrene boxes on the side of the cupola, plus one behind the small hole at the rear, and another under the bridge in front of the hatch. I mounted them inside the cupola on the Tiger, but there isn't room on the Bulldog without a lot of butchery.

I simply snipped off the sensors on the Darkith board, and soldered flyleads on to the pins that remained, then I soldered the loose ends to sensors and mounted them where you can see them in the pics.

The led's are all mounted under the base of the rear of the turret, I just drilled four holes, plugged the led's in, and did the same with flyleads. The mushroom is hot glued inside the turret, I just had to make sure it (and all of the wires) were clear of the barrel mechanisms (More hot glue).

Hope that helps...and sorry for the thread hijack!!

Rob G

[Gigantohawk]

Hey no thread hijack Rob, I enjoy your thoughts and input.
Your Bulldog has a true and convincing finish to it.
I'll probably stick to my "Gunmetal base coat" on my PZIV to re-test the theory. If it doesn't work mate then you can tell me "It doesn't work, try my method". And that is meant with all due respect Rob.
The thing is each and everyone of us has a "method and opinion" and that's what makes this forum and all it's members so special.
I'm looking forward to spending some time on my tanks and posting pic's. Then hearing all your opinoins on them.

Nick.

[wibblywobbly]

So true, I have tried various things suggested on here, and found the solutions to problems. It's a great place to find out how to do stuff. Concealing IR systems was something I had never even thought of until I saw what Grompix had done. It looked horribly complicated until he patiently explained what was required. I had never used an airbrush in my life until I started on tanks, and as they say, practice makes perfect, though compared to most I still have a lot to learn.

I am still staggered at what people can do with styrene sheets, some of the detail work that modellers achieve is unbelievable.

Looking forward to your PZIV, they are great looking tanks, and as for me being a judge...believe me, a camera can hide a multitude of sins...

Cheers

Rob G

[Gigantohawk]

Hi Rob,
My thoughts entirely, we both think the same way.
Just another thought and I would welcome your input here. The Heng long PZIV rear engine deck isn't sloped/angled down towards the rear as it is on the fullsize tank. This area is one of the first things I'm going to alter. Do you have any thoughts or fixes for this ? I've got a few in my mind but I'm struggling with a method to screw/hold down the hull top after the mod.

Nick.

[wibblywobbly]

For joining two right angled sections I find that plastruct is my friend. I buy the extruded box section packs and glue them into the corners, this gives a strong support to both edges. Then its the old fill sand fill sand routine. It's quite interesting seeing the underside of a few of the modded tanks at the meets. We all do the same, it looks pretty good on the outside, but the underside is different story, with pieces of styrene glued in all over the place to get the outer surface the right shape and to give it strength.

[Gigantohawk]

Yeah, I've used to Plastruct box sections before. I think for the Rear plate and Engine deck I'll probably try Plasticard bent to a V section as it's not going to be a 90' join.