1/10th Stridsvagn 103C

[Barthez]

Hello,
I’m not aware of that product, I used a two part rubber https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266270964862 ... media=COPY
The pigment is added before mixing the two parts together. There are lots of colours, not that you want yellow or pink tyres .
I went for a hard compound due to the weight of the tank, 20kg is at the moment. I have fair bit of experience with silicone rubber making moulds for resin castings. But silicone would just be too soft. For this application.

I almost got 15 tyres from the quantity I bought. I did fluff up and mix two of the same part together so it never set.
There is always a little wastage too , I did not google too much so I did not find another supplier. Often materials like this are supplied in large quantities , not geared to the hobby user. I don’t like having too much rubber or resin stored not to be used for years.
I only had one mould, had I made t more than one I would not have mixed more than new tyres worth at a time due to the sort potlife.

Not sure how that urathane in a tube would cope with the UDT pattern on your Draggon Waggon tyres , excellent choice for a project, getting in and out of the various air pockets in the mould.
As mine is liquid , and a very simple shape. I am able to tilt my mould to get it flow and I suck the air out as I poor to help it flow.
It’s the experimenting with different materials I enjoy and if it’s economical to as well then that’s a double win. There is a lot of material in a standard sealant tube so very much worth trying out. If your tyres wear out quickly you can make spares cheaply.

I will soon start making the tracks. I am in two minds about the rubber track pads , I could not use my current method to cast the pads ,I could I suppose but it would be very tedious. I am minded to to cast the rubber onto the metal links direct. As I don’t know how attaching each one would be feasible.
The urathane you show may be the answer I have a method using something like that in my mind now.

I am already planning my next project A US T30, I would love a diamond T to haul her around with, so I would need a lot of tyres . Planning the next project before I have completed the current one is a bad habit of mine.
Regards

Bart

[Barthez]

Hello,
Blimey another year into this project, I have done quite a bit more work but slowly not sure where all the time goes and what else seems to steal my time . I want to get this project done this year. I did have a few moths off due to work but I am back on track now.
I am , and have been a making tracks for the last few months when I can.
This has been the most tedious part of the project having to scale things up from a 1/35th kit creates a few problems and this is my first tank .
The tracks are made from mild steel, there are quite a few steps to make each one. I decided to fit the guide pin with a small screw. Obviously on the full size this would be a part of the casting.
Once the tracks rust up a bit this will blend in. The track pads are polyurethane rubber , the same material as the tyres. I ran out of pigment so my test pads are the natural rubber colour. I superglued them in place, they are firmly attached.





I now have to make another 140 or so guide pins, the first one was hand filed, I did make around 150 connecting links the wrong size that was very frustrating to say the least.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

It is interesting that you found the error "very frustrating to say the least." I can understand, but, then again, I cannot understand. You have more skill than I can even try to imagine as I putter away at simple modeling tasks. You are a foundry, machine shop, design shop, and who knows what else all in one! Amazing!

[Barthez]

Thank you Puttering away is what this hobby is all about. If I were an engineer I would be a little quicker as it is there is a lot of trial and error and what my wife calls a “a good coat of looking at “ which she means you’re staring at it a lot.
I made the drive sprockets . The webbed part that holds the front sprocket is not quite right . This is down to both my marking out and the rotary table I used to hold it. It was very cheap many years ago . They will do for now . The sprockets are made from cast iron, the tooth profile is not quite right , I did re cut two of them when I was starting to make the track links , next week’s job.
The hub is made from mild steel in two parts as per the full size.



The idler is made from one piece of aluminium, the cut outs have the same issues as the web cuts outs I mentioned above. I will invest in a better rotary table when I build my next one.
Progress has been slow over the last few months but I am off work next week I have the metal so I should be able to make progress.

[AlanWhite]

Those look damm good to me

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Gee, and all this time seeing what you accomplish I figured you were a mechanical engineer, machinist, and all around wizard. This is such superb work!