Metal Tracks?

[tankme]

I'm telling you...a $1.00 tube of CA does wonders and it's not that hard to push the pins out even when glued... Just a drop on the end of the pins. Much cheaper than spending over a $100 on new tracks, but to each his own.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

I second tankme's advice: I have not used CA glue, but others have with fine success. I use E6000, a bit slower setting than CA glues, but also retains some flex which gives it durability. Either way, an inexpensive tube of CA or E6000 may well do the trick. And both glues are so useful, that even if the tracks don't hold, you will find a gazillion other uses.

[Michael151722]

Drive sprockets , road wheels and idler are all stock Tamiya. As others have said the Tamiya road wheels are mostly metal. I think I removed 1 track link on each side although it's been a while since I did these KTs. The Henntec works flawlessly on the Tamiya KT. I suppose if you don't really run the tanks hard you could stay stock but everybody in the club told me to ditch the original Tamiya tracks and the idlers. Considering i have never had an issue with any of my Tamiya tracks (I think on their WW2 tanks other than the KT they are the best for outdoor running) I was surprised at how poor their KT ones are. You shouldn't have any issue with the gearboxes. I know there are upgrades to beef up the gearbox shaft housings but our field is about as big a torture test that there is and knock on wood i have had no issues

Good to know, as I want to keep everything stock as well as that’s the best moving forward I believe but will either get new nylon tracks or try one of the methods people recommend here, hope life has been good mate

[Michael151722]

Hello, for information, here is a very old link, on the possible improvement of a Tamiya KT. Personally on mine, adapted metal tracks, while retaining the existing undercarriage, without any problems? it is true that you drive more often!!!!
Link
https://www.customrcmodels.com/shop/dar ... _parts.htm

Thank you will look at it!

[Michael151722]

You could try bending the track pins very slightly, not a lot just a bow or a bit of a kink. I have found that can cure pins working themselves out. Just a stop gap measure while you save up for some new tracks.

Not a bad idea but I might just get brand new plastic tracks and thank you for your help

[Michael151722]

Also thank you to everyone’s post on here your all so helpful and kind!

[Jofaur86]

Hello, I must have this? but where ? and there must be a few links missing? but I'll have to look?? or row!!!

[dingobattler]

For anyone looking at this in the future, best to install the KT tracks with the pins facing outwards. That way, you instantly can see the moment any pin starts walking itself out and press it in. Also, easier and a good idea to push in all pins before each run - sometimes the pins walk themselves out from previous runs, but also from temperature and vibrations and other storage issues. Setting it with pins facing outwards will make this task way easier. Lastly, remember to store your KT on a wooden block or some mount. Not only does it preserve your suspension, the tension will also reduce the amount by which the pins walk themselves out.

Breakage on the nylon tracks usually happen when a pin works its way out, then gets caught on something, and rips the thin retaining ring.

That said, the Tamiya KT is probably their poorest offering. I had more issues (both cosmetic and mechanical) with it than motorised scale models (wiesel and ft-17), so avoid it where you can, and get a torro or heng long one