I'm done with acrylics
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- Lance Corporal
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I'm done with acrylics
Been practicing painting camo paterns freehand with my airbrush. With masking acrylic paints work fine, it's what I've always painted my 1/16 tanks with. With masking you can use wide spray and lay down even coats just like painting with a can of spray paint. However masking brings it's own problems, oily film from putty or maskol, distorted borders or overly dark, built-up borders etc. And on smaller products ie. 1/48 or even 1/32 aircraft, masking is even more problematic.
First I tried Lifecolor acrylics, I really wanted this paint to work because the colors are quite accurate. But I couldn't get this stuff to spray worth a darn. And from what I've been reading that is pretty much everybody's experience with Lifecolor. It doesn't brush on worth a darn either. Then I tried some vallejo air. it was better but pretty useless for fine work. No matter how I mixed it, even when it was water thin and scattering and running on the surface it was still clogging in the nozzle. So I went back to old reliable, tamiya acrylic. It sprays on much better and easier than the vallejo and lifecolor. But, and this is something I've always noticed with tamiya acrylic, when it dries it has this weird effect, almost looks like water stains and this is exacerbated when painting with fine or narrow spray. Then on a lark I tried some testors enamel and it airbrushed like a dream. I mean literally, it was airbrushing like I imagined airbrushing before I ever tried it. It was so much easier and the end result was better. So I tried some tamiya brand enamel and two other brands and they all behaved exactly the same. Which is another plus for enamel, no matter what brand they are all the same.
First I tried Lifecolor acrylics, I really wanted this paint to work because the colors are quite accurate. But I couldn't get this stuff to spray worth a darn. And from what I've been reading that is pretty much everybody's experience with Lifecolor. It doesn't brush on worth a darn either. Then I tried some vallejo air. it was better but pretty useless for fine work. No matter how I mixed it, even when it was water thin and scattering and running on the surface it was still clogging in the nozzle. So I went back to old reliable, tamiya acrylic. It sprays on much better and easier than the vallejo and lifecolor. But, and this is something I've always noticed with tamiya acrylic, when it dries it has this weird effect, almost looks like water stains and this is exacerbated when painting with fine or narrow spray. Then on a lark I tried some testors enamel and it airbrushed like a dream. I mean literally, it was airbrushing like I imagined airbrushing before I ever tried it. It was so much easier and the end result was better. So I tried some tamiya brand enamel and two other brands and they all behaved exactly the same. Which is another plus for enamel, no matter what brand they are all the same.
- HERMAN BIX
- Brigadier
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Re: I'm done with acrylics
They are very different paints which demonstrate very different behaviors.
Acrylics are sensitive to being too thick/or thin.
My thought is your paint was too thick, but thats pure supposition.
Acrylics are sensitive to being too thick/or thin.
My thought is your paint was too thick, but thats pure supposition.
HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
- jarndice
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Re: I'm done with acrylics
I do not use Masking Tape as much as once I did instead I use "LO-TAC" it does the same job without overly defined edges and removing it is far easier,
But the "Weird" effect of sprayed Acrylic is I think exactly as described by Herman' Too thick,
Lots of well thinned coats lightly applied and do make sure the temperature of your workplace is above 15c has always worked for me.
I shall not be returning to enamel paint anytime soon.
But the "Weird" effect of sprayed Acrylic is I think exactly as described by Herman' Too thick,
Lots of well thinned coats lightly applied and do make sure the temperature of your workplace is above 15c has always worked for me.
I shall not be returning to enamel paint anytime soon.
I think I am about to upset someone
- General Jumbo01
- Warrant Officer 1st Class
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Re: I'm done with acrylics
I try to use only Tamiya masking tape which is low tac and flexible if you use their narrow rolls. I then use cheaper brands for holding paper masks over larger areas. As stated above, practice with your acrylics and thinners - again l tend to use Tamiya paints but always thin them with Tamiya thinners.
I try to prime all surfaces with a good rattle can before putting colour down. This ensures a clean compatible surface for the top coats.
Experimentation and practice does make perfect!
I try to prime all surfaces with a good rattle can before putting colour down. This ensures a clean compatible surface for the top coats.
Experimentation and practice does make perfect!
Owner - Fuckleburgh Tank Collection
Re: I'm done with acrylics
Different strokes for different folks I guess. With the exception of my first go I’ve never had any luck with Vallejo. Tamiya the old reliable but don’t always have the shade I’m after and no shadows/modulation sets. I had issues with the ammo sets before I realised I wasn’t shaking enough. It’s all learning in the end. I’m not painting a car or a yacht so I’m not aiming for mirror perfect finish. Weathering hides a multitude of sins if that’s your bag!
- Herr Dr. Professor
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Re: I'm done with acrylics
I am sorry, Shag, that you have been discouraged by acrylics. I loved the late, great Floquil and grew up with Testor's and Model Master enamels, but, alas, enamels are disappearing.
start pontification
For Vallejo, I add their brand-specific thinner to Model Color and I use their brand-specific Flow Improver. I have no problem with Tamiya military colors, provided I thin them enough. For small areas, I use super-fine coats and a Paasche Talon set to rather low pressure. ("Double-action" is lost on me; it's just the fine spray that helps). For larger areas, I use a Paasche H, an old Badger, or spray cans when they are available.
No matter what I spray or how I spray it, I first try out each time on some cardboard, because I am not skilled enough to go right to a model. Frankly, modeling, and especially painting, slowly taught me patience, which helped me in the part of my job that put me in the role of an untrained mediator.
end pontification
start pontification
For Vallejo, I add their brand-specific thinner to Model Color and I use their brand-specific Flow Improver. I have no problem with Tamiya military colors, provided I thin them enough. For small areas, I use super-fine coats and a Paasche Talon set to rather low pressure. ("Double-action" is lost on me; it's just the fine spray that helps). For larger areas, I use a Paasche H, an old Badger, or spray cans when they are available.
No matter what I spray or how I spray it, I first try out each time on some cardboard, because I am not skilled enough to go right to a model. Frankly, modeling, and especially painting, slowly taught me patience, which helped me in the part of my job that put me in the role of an untrained mediator.
end pontification
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- Lance Corporal
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Re: I'm done with acrylics
For thinners I use lifecolor, Vallejo ab thinner, Vallejo flow improver, Vallejo retarder, tamiya x-20a, distilled water, mr color leveling thinner. Depending on what paint I was using.
With enamels I use mineral spirits. Works with every brand of enamel I’ve tried. Another check in the pros column for enamels.
I always clean my airbrush with lacquer thinner no matter what kind of paint I’m using. I’ve seen a few people on the internet say that they thin their paints with lacquer thinner. I don’t know where they live but where I’m from the stuff called lacquer thinner dissolves plastic and glue and putty. I would not use it on a model. People say the fumes from oil based enamel paints are worse than acrylic, I don’t know if that’s true but I always wear a respirator regardless of what type of paint I’m spraying anyway.
With enamels I use mineral spirits. Works with every brand of enamel I’ve tried. Another check in the pros column for enamels.
I always clean my airbrush with lacquer thinner no matter what kind of paint I’m using. I’ve seen a few people on the internet say that they thin their paints with lacquer thinner. I don’t know where they live but where I’m from the stuff called lacquer thinner dissolves plastic and glue and putty. I would not use it on a model. People say the fumes from oil based enamel paints are worse than acrylic, I don’t know if that’s true but I always wear a respirator regardless of what type of paint I’m spraying anyway.
- Herr Dr. Professor
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Re: I'm done with acrylics
Shagnifico: I am a bit afraid of lacquer thinner for just the reason you give: it could damage any plastic in the handle of an airbrush. I, too, clean my airbrushes with great care. However, I need to take a lesson from you: I should use a respirator as you do. Maybe fumes got to this old brain.
- tankme
- Warrant Officer 1st Class
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Re: I'm done with acrylics
I mixed up a specific airbrush cleaner that works well and helps lube the airbrush at the same time. Recipe #1 https://airbrushinsider.com/making-airb ... eaner-diy/
Derek
Too many project builds to list...
Too many project builds to list...
- Herr Dr. Professor
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- Location: Southern Wisconsin USA
Re: I'm done with acrylics
Thank you, tankme. I have been using Windex for cleaning up air and hairy brushes. I will make a batch a.s.a.p.