HL Screw size question
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If your question is electronics related please post it in one of the relevant boards here: viewforum.php?f=31
HL Screw size question
hello again guys
I have another question I hope you guys can answer.I'm just in the middle of taking apart my pershing and have noticed the screws on everything have been way overtighten, from the screws that hold the tank together to the sprockets and gearbox mounts.I didn't use my good wiha screwdrivers thank goodness or it would have really mangled the screw heads. My smaller flat blade seem to work the best actually instead of a phillips.
What I am wondering is do you guys replace the factory screws at all with better quality hardware? and am curious if you would happen to know the screw sizes that are used on heng long tanks?
any help would be great
Jeremy
I have another question I hope you guys can answer.I'm just in the middle of taking apart my pershing and have noticed the screws on everything have been way overtighten, from the screws that hold the tank together to the sprockets and gearbox mounts.I didn't use my good wiha screwdrivers thank goodness or it would have really mangled the screw heads. My smaller flat blade seem to work the best actually instead of a phillips.
What I am wondering is do you guys replace the factory screws at all with better quality hardware? and am curious if you would happen to know the screw sizes that are used on heng long tanks?
any help would be great
Jeremy
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Re: HL Screw size question
I usually hold the correct type and size of screwdriver in place, then make a gentle sharp tap on the end of the driver with a lightweight hammer, when the screws seem too tight, and before starting to remove them. Sadly the various screws are over tightened depending who assembled it, and can totally strip out the plastic on removal, the tapping can have a loosening effect to try and combat this.
Depending on what the screws are for, most of the time I use the supplied ones.
As for screw size, I know most of the internal ones holding all the workings together/in place are usually 3mm by 10mm, but I can't remember the size of the ones you're referring to. Just measure their diameter, and length from point to just under the screw head, unless they're counter sunk screws, then it's the total length, these will be metric screws.
Depending on what the screws are for, most of the time I use the supplied ones.
As for screw size, I know most of the internal ones holding all the workings together/in place are usually 3mm by 10mm, but I can't remember the size of the ones you're referring to. Just measure their diameter, and length from point to just under the screw head, unless they're counter sunk screws, then it's the total length, these will be metric screws.
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And always happy to spare the bytes
TOTM needs YOU support YOUR TOTM competition, I'm doing my part, are YOU?
- jarndice
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Re: HL Screw size question
First thing to do with any Heng Long Tank is to replace the screw closure system for a Taigen Quick release kit which is a simple fit and is available from Dave @
www.forgebeartanks.com
or Dom @
www.rctank.de
It is no bad thing to replace the Heng Long screws in other parts of your Tank with properly engineered screws.
www.forgebeartanks.com
or Dom @
www.rctank.de
It is no bad thing to replace the Heng Long screws in other parts of your Tank with properly engineered screws.
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- tankme
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Re: HL Screw size question
I actually don't like the Taigen quick release kit that much and prefer using magnets. It's a personal preference and there is nothing wrong with the Taigen quick release kit. Magnets tend to eliminate a lot of the cheap screws and give me a large surplus of them when I strip one out.
Derek
Too many project builds to list...
Too many project builds to list...
Re: HL Screw size question
Using magnets sounds like something I would like, are there any tutorials floating around on how I might be able to do this? thanks on any leads you can give metankme wrote:I actually don't like the Taigen quick release kit that much and prefer using magnets. It's a personal preference and there is nothing wrong with the Taigen quick release kit. Magnets tend to eliminate a lot of the cheap screws and give me a large surplus of them when I strip one out.
- jarndice
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Re: HL Screw size question
Nearly all my Tanks are held together using Neo-Dymion Magnets fromtankme wrote:I actually don't like the Taigen quick release kit that much and prefer using magnets. It's a personal preference and there is nothing wrong with the Taigen quick release kit. Magnets tend to eliminate a lot of the cheap screws and give me a large surplus of them when I strip one out.
www.first4magnets.com
I assumed that our latest and very welcome member was on the beginning of a learning curve so I thought to ease his entry into this veil of tears I would make it a little easier for him,
But Countersunk magnets are the way forward in my mind
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Re: HL Screw size question
Thnaks for the link I will have a look. I see there a UK site but know of a few places that stock neodymium magnets. Is there a size that works best for you?
- jarndice
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Re: HL Screw size question
I usually use F102 S (South) Countersunk 10mm x 3mm x 2mm they come in packs of 10 and are also available in North (F102 N) as well as South.JeremyB wrote:Thnaks for the link I will have a look. I see there a UK site but know of a few places that stock neodymium magnets. Is there a size that works best for you?
Do not rely on glue to hold them in place but screw them into position,
There is no definitive mounting position for the magnets,
Trial and error is the way to go.
The rearmost upper and lower mounting towers that are opposite to each other is a good place to start them as you are getting approx 2kg pull per magnet which will easily overcome just about any adhesive.
Never allow the magnets to BANG together as they will fracture.
The front of the Tank being held by the metal lip already fitted.
I think I am about to upset someone
- tankme
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Re: HL Screw size question
I agree with Jarndice.
I try to use a screw or some other mechanical way of connecting the magnets although I do have some that are superglued in and do hold just fine so far. I will rough up the plastic a little first so superglue gets a little more bite. You can see in my ZTZ-99 thread here on the site how the magnets are mounted (viewtopic.php?f=41&t=30889). I use an M3 countersunk fine thread machine screw mated to an M3 5mm brass standoff on the bottom magnets. I use the standoffs because they don't spin when dropped down the inner shaft and they are thinner than M3 nuts. The top magnets are held in by an M3 coarse countersunk screw. I shorten the top magnet mount to accommodate the magnets. Remember if you remove too much of the mount you can always put a washer under the magnet to correct the mistake and lower the magnet. Or you can put a washer under the lower magnet and raise it up.
N52s are the strongest magnets I've seen, but they are the most brittle. As you go down in the N number (like N35) the magnets get weaker, but they also become less brittle. I've been using the 10mm N52 magnets and haven't broken any yet. I have broken some smaller thinner magnets though. The 10mm x 3mm x 2mm magnets are a very good size for our tanks.
I got mine here, but I'm in the US: https://jc-magnetics.com/Countersunk
I try to use a screw or some other mechanical way of connecting the magnets although I do have some that are superglued in and do hold just fine so far. I will rough up the plastic a little first so superglue gets a little more bite. You can see in my ZTZ-99 thread here on the site how the magnets are mounted (viewtopic.php?f=41&t=30889). I use an M3 countersunk fine thread machine screw mated to an M3 5mm brass standoff on the bottom magnets. I use the standoffs because they don't spin when dropped down the inner shaft and they are thinner than M3 nuts. The top magnets are held in by an M3 coarse countersunk screw. I shorten the top magnet mount to accommodate the magnets. Remember if you remove too much of the mount you can always put a washer under the magnet to correct the mistake and lower the magnet. Or you can put a washer under the lower magnet and raise it up.
N52s are the strongest magnets I've seen, but they are the most brittle. As you go down in the N number (like N35) the magnets get weaker, but they also become less brittle. I've been using the 10mm N52 magnets and haven't broken any yet. I have broken some smaller thinner magnets though. The 10mm x 3mm x 2mm magnets are a very good size for our tanks.
I got mine here, but I'm in the US: https://jc-magnetics.com/Countersunk
Derek
Too many project builds to list...
Too many project builds to list...
Re: HL Screw size question
Thank you very much guys for the links and the information.
Jeremy
Jeremy