Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

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Winalot
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Re: Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

Post by Winalot »

Hi
I’m getting nowhere with this Pershing turret! I’ve moved the slipper clutch to the second cog position which has helped, and got all the wiring tidy, so don’t think they ate binding.
It rotates ok, although a bit jerky, but when it gets to the slot in the body for removal of the turret, it pops out of the slot. I don’t see how this an work.
When you put the turret on and rotate it clockwise, how far should it be rotated?
The other problem may be, that there is a lot of play in the turret from side to side, and the rollers fitted to the hull don’t even seem to be in contact with the grey ring.
I must have got something wrong somewhere.
Any help much appreciated
W
"It’s not despair that kills you, but hope" John Cleese
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Ad Lav
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Re: Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

Post by Ad Lav »

Post some photos?
Winalot
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Re: Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

Post by Winalot »

Yes will do if I can get a clear shot of the problem. I don’t know about all you other guys, but I’m beginning to think that the Tamiya is not worth the extra money.
Yes, the detail is superb, the sound great and the motors and gears are great, but the detail is fragile. I keep breaking bits off with the turret in and out. All in all, correct me if you disagree, but the Heng Long, with a bit of upgrading, and extra detail added , would seem a better bet! Especially for the price. I am a little dissaponted with the Tami, but it might be my fault!
Any opinions?
W
"It’s not despair that kills you, but hope" John Cleese
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General Jumbo01
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Re: Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

Post by General Jumbo01 »

Can you remove the top hull from the bottom? If so, maybe fit the turret permanently and close the 'slot' with plasticard.
You can also shim the slack out of the wobbly turret. Have you considered fitting a 360 rotating cable barrel as produced for Henglong tanks. This would remove all cable induced turret rotation resistance.
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Winalot
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Re: Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

Post by Winalot »

Hi and thanks for the advise. Yes that could all be done but should I have to at £600 + for the ( supposedly) best make on the market. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve enjoyed making it, and as I said, you can’t fault the detail, but?
W
"It’s not despair that kills you, but hope" John Cleese
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Re: Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

Post by General Jumbo01 »

If you have built your model precisely as instructed and assuming you have not purchased a duff example, no. You should not experience problems.

Detail is relatively low cost and easy to add so justifying the cost of a Tamiya model can be difficult to fully justify in many eyes - you'll find one or more extensive and somewhat heated debates on this matter if you search the forum.

The cheaper models, predominantly Henglong, used to have many flaws but at their low price most of us were happy to buy them knowing we would have to spend time and money turning them into a quality model. More recently they have advanced hugely and their electronics now equal or exceed those found in in far higher priced models.

I guess we've gotten used to having to modify our models and, quite frankly, that's become half the fun of our hobby. This is no help for you right now but if it helps to put you in the picture then you might be better prepared for future purchases.
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Ad Lav
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Re: Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

Post by Ad Lav »

Tbh if it’s a new kit and built as per instructions, barring any wiring bunching issues it should be fine.

I did cut my speaker in half and box it up again to give me space for all the wiring and the battery.

My turret touches all the guides going round, doesn’t slop.

The turret clutch glue fix worked perfectly for me, it just means you can’t twist it with your hand now.
Tiger6
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Re: Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

Post by Tiger6 »

The Pershing is notoriously cramped inside, the only advice I can offer is to make sure all of your wiring is bundled up and tied down out of the way (making sure to keep the receiver wires well away from the motor cables to eliminate electrical noise). I did once have to sort one out for a friend, and it was an absolute pig to get the turret back on and functional.

One thing I have seen suggested by the old hands over on RCUniverse is to cut down the speaker box a little, doesn't make much of a difference to the sound, but does make more space.
Last edited by Tiger6 on Sun Oct 18, 2020 5:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Winalot
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Re: Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

Post by Winalot »

Thanks again, if you glue the clutch, then how do you twist the turret on now? Having eliminated the wiring problems, I think. The prob seems to be when the turret gets to the slot, it pops out! I must say it seems to run ok with the upper half of tank off, so I guess it’s still pressure of the fit, pushing it up.
I didn’t expect this kind of issue tho.
W
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Ad Lav
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Re: Help with Tami 1:16 Pershing

Post by Ad Lav »

Winalot wrote:Thanks again, if you glue the clutch, then how do you twist the turret on now? Having eliminated the wiring problems, I think. The prob seems to be when the turret gets to the slot, it pops out! I must say it seems to run ok with the upper half of tank off, so I guess it’s still pressure of the fit, pushing it up.
I didn’t expect this kind of issue tho.
W
See my post two up - you won’t be able to twist it by hand. You’d have to turn it on to twist it and remove it if needed.

I think it’s wiring pushing it up when it turns.

Suggest you cut the speaker box in half and box it up again to make wiring space.
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