M16 Half Track "Meat Chopper" Korea 1950 - Build
Re: M16 Half Track "Meat Chopper" Korea 1950 - Build
Hi,
When raising the armored windshield, the three supports bars need to be crafted. Closer inspection reveals that they are more complex than thought, not just a stick. The idea is to create something as close as possible with the material available.
Not everything can be 3D printed. These are actually providing support and do help keep the armored windshield solidly in place. Having brass tubes and strips of all kind of sizes is important for such build.
Details shown on the door in references.
The flaps needed to be thinned significantly to be realistic. 1.4mm Meng nuts and some brass tubes are required. The tie downs remains to be created and will be added at the end of the build. I found that these are usually fragile and I would lose a few during the heavy manipulation of the model during the build. Better keep fragile stuff for the end. The door handle which was only a blob of plastic has been removed and redone in brass. Still need some refining and improvement. It is not uncommon for me to redo things twice or more until I am satisfied with the results. I have to see the small items on close up pictures to really notice the quality and determine if ok or not.
As seen at the start of the build, the door interior have no details at all. For a open compartment like this, it needs improvements.
Interior view of the right door as seen in my reference book shown on the first post. It has a metal map case, locking mechanism and bolts. Those 3D graphics are fantastic and are mandatory for this detailing. Other views of the interior frame were great. Highly recommended.
I tried to do something similar but without dimensions, its all guess work and done on a best effort basis so that we can have something interesting to look at on the model.
The handle was hand crafted from 2mm brass rod using nail files.
Left door interior detail. Notice the frame around the doors as seen in references, easily reproduced. But the cabin plastic is a lot thicker than the real M16 so some compromises are required. I did not see myself thinning all that plastic. Ensure that the interior nuts are matching the bolt location seen on the exterior side of the door and walls.
Continuing on following post
When raising the armored windshield, the three supports bars need to be crafted. Closer inspection reveals that they are more complex than thought, not just a stick. The idea is to create something as close as possible with the material available.
Not everything can be 3D printed. These are actually providing support and do help keep the armored windshield solidly in place. Having brass tubes and strips of all kind of sizes is important for such build.
Details shown on the door in references.
The flaps needed to be thinned significantly to be realistic. 1.4mm Meng nuts and some brass tubes are required. The tie downs remains to be created and will be added at the end of the build. I found that these are usually fragile and I would lose a few during the heavy manipulation of the model during the build. Better keep fragile stuff for the end. The door handle which was only a blob of plastic has been removed and redone in brass. Still need some refining and improvement. It is not uncommon for me to redo things twice or more until I am satisfied with the results. I have to see the small items on close up pictures to really notice the quality and determine if ok or not.
As seen at the start of the build, the door interior have no details at all. For a open compartment like this, it needs improvements.
Interior view of the right door as seen in my reference book shown on the first post. It has a metal map case, locking mechanism and bolts. Those 3D graphics are fantastic and are mandatory for this detailing. Other views of the interior frame were great. Highly recommended.
I tried to do something similar but without dimensions, its all guess work and done on a best effort basis so that we can have something interesting to look at on the model.
The handle was hand crafted from 2mm brass rod using nail files.
Left door interior detail. Notice the frame around the doors as seen in references, easily reproduced. But the cabin plastic is a lot thicker than the real M16 so some compromises are required. I did not see myself thinning all that plastic. Ensure that the interior nuts are matching the bolt location seen on the exterior side of the door and walls.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Tue Jun 30, 2020 7:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: M16 Half Track "Meat Chopper" Korea 1950 - Build
Overview.
Before installing the cabin on the frame, I need to fix the 3mm gap issue shown on the first post. I determine the anchor point at the front need to be remove and redone. I am reinforcing the remaining bracket as the main anchor.
Recreating a new anchor for the front. The highlighted section will be glued to the bottom frame and the cabin will be removable using one screw easily accessible.
The new anchor point.
The front is now resting correctly on the metal frame. I am noticing that a lot of details are missing here and will require attention.
Overview of the model with the re-installed cabin. Looking much better than before. Now let's try to put on the rear armor section.
Damn, there is still a 1mm gap between the two sections. So, the gap was reduced from 3mm to 1mm, still not good. Further investigation reveals nothing wrong with the assembly. All the anchor points are aligned with their holes on the frame. Redoing the anchor point 1mm away is not ideal. It is a design or original construction error when the holes were drilled on the frame.
Continuing on following post.
Before installing the cabin on the frame, I need to fix the 3mm gap issue shown on the first post. I determine the anchor point at the front need to be remove and redone. I am reinforcing the remaining bracket as the main anchor.
Recreating a new anchor for the front. The highlighted section will be glued to the bottom frame and the cabin will be removable using one screw easily accessible.
The new anchor point.
The front is now resting correctly on the metal frame. I am noticing that a lot of details are missing here and will require attention.
Overview of the model with the re-installed cabin. Looking much better than before. Now let's try to put on the rear armor section.
Damn, there is still a 1mm gap between the two sections. So, the gap was reduced from 3mm to 1mm, still not good. Further investigation reveals nothing wrong with the assembly. All the anchor points are aligned with their holes on the frame. Redoing the anchor point 1mm away is not ideal. It is a design or original construction error when the holes were drilled on the frame.
Continuing on following post.
Last edited by lmcq11 on Tue Jun 30, 2020 7:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: M16 Half Track "Meat Chopper" Korea 1950 - Build
I have resigned myself to add a 1mm plasticard strip as a spacer glued to the cabin to close the gap with the rear section. Both sections remain independent but are now back to back. Not ideal but it resolves the issue fast and simple.
Regards, Louis
Regards, Louis
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Re: M16 Half Track "Meat Chopper" Korea 1950 - Build
Great work once again Louis
Cheers, Lee.
Cheers, Lee.
Me ? Addicted ? Never !!
- silversurfer1947
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Re: M16 Half Track "Meat Chopper" Korea 1950 - Build
It goes without saying, but I shall say it anyway. Your attention to detail is outstanding. It is almost as if BarryC has lent you his aliens
Richard
Tamiya Tiger 1, Taigen FlakPanzer IV,Torro M16 half-track, Tamiya Panther,WSN/Torro T34,Taigen M41 Bulldog,H/l/Taigen Sherman M4A3,H/L T90, Haya M3 Grant, Metal Origins 234/2 Puma, Nashorn by Alwyn. I was only going to have one tank - honest!
Tamiya Tiger 1, Taigen FlakPanzer IV,Torro M16 half-track, Tamiya Panther,WSN/Torro T34,Taigen M41 Bulldog,H/l/Taigen Sherman M4A3,H/L T90, Haya M3 Grant, Metal Origins 234/2 Puma, Nashorn by Alwyn. I was only going to have one tank - honest!
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Re: M16 Half Track "Meat Chopper" Korea 1950 - Build
Biggest issue with this model is lack of power on front wheels.
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Re: M16 Half Track "Meat Chopper" Korea 1950 - Build
The lack of drive to the front axles of most half tracks was a real problem when trying to turn the vehicle and often the method of steering became a combination of muscle through the steering wheel and slewing the vehicle on its rear tracks,
There are plenty of pictures of half tracks with the front end in the air with the tracks providing both drive and steering.
There are plenty of pictures of half tracks with the front end in the air with the tracks providing both drive and steering.
I think I am about to upset someone
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Re: M16 Half Track "Meat Chopper" Korea 1950 - Build
Real halftracks yes, but model often have sometimes trouble with running. It's probably possible to make front drive in the front using HL truck parts.
Re: M16 Half Track "Meat Chopper" Korea 1950 - Build
I've read that in a number of reviews on this model.Kaczor wrote:Biggest issue with this model is lack of power on front wheels.
Barry
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
Leonardo Da Vinci
Leonardo Da Vinci