M551 Sheridan Airborne light tank - Vietnam - build
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- 2nd Lieutenant
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Re: M551 Sheridan Airborne light tank - Vietnam - build
Hi all
Love this build !!
and some clever and simple engineering to solve a problem with the gearbox shaftes
I really wish mato would make ..replacement gearboxes form all the tamiya tanks
Woundee why thsy don't because there's certainly a large market for them ?
Love this build !!
and some clever and simple engineering to solve a problem with the gearbox shaftes
I really wish mato would make ..replacement gearboxes form all the tamiya tanks
Woundee why thsy don't because there's certainly a large market for them ?
Re: M551 Sheridan Airborne light tank - Vietnam - build
Agree, maybe Max-U52 could make and sell these on eBay.mcevoyi wrote:I really wish mato would make ..replacement gearboxes form all the tamiya tanks Woundee why thsy don't because there's certainly a large market for them ?
Here is the finished chassis built as per instructions, minus a few items left for later after painting. It is a fast build, just a few of hours over 3 days. Let's have a walk around of the good and bad things.
Front view. The model looks good. A clear plastic window is provided for the hole in front of the driver's pit. This is to allow the driver to see in front of him when the flotation system is raised. The issue is that it also allow us to see right through to the hull interior bottom... what the hell... That view will need to be blocked by a plasticard sheet simulating the hull armor under the window.
The model is equipped with a strong metal track adjuster. Very nice indeed but the adjustments is slow because you have to unscrew most of the bolt to make an adjustment, and then screw it back, half a turn at a time. That fake little damper on top of it looks a bit ridiculous, glued to the metal hull and hanging by itself without connecting to the track adjuster.
The driver's hatch as a nice cast metal texture.
As reported by Barry, the flotation cover is molded right on the armor, with no ability to easily raise or remove it. This is unforgivable, specially when the 1/35 Tamiya kit has a nice separate part for it. The Tamiya kit has very soft plastic which make it difficult to modify. The slightest touch of a knife on this plastic creates a deep scratch that is difficult to eliminate. Sanding is also an issue on this plastic, very difficult to polish. I won't touch it and I will deal with it with paint and weathering to make it less obvious.
Right view. With the gearbox installed and no counter weight at the front, the model is a bit rear heavy. The suspension is really lacking its dampers, and I have not given up on trying something here, still thinking about it. At least, the rear spring will have to be made more powerful. On the RC version, Tamiya has the battery installed at the back, which is probably a bad idea. I will install mine at the front to help balance the model a bit.
I have not installed the hub cap yet because I am planning to replace the provided fake plastic bearings below by real metal ones. The wheels do not roll very well with these. If my calculations are right, the model roadwheels requires 40 ball bearings with 5mm center, 8mm wide and 2.5mm thick (5x8x2.5) available on eBay or Amazon for about 15-30$ depending on quality, It might take a while before I get them. More can be purchased for those who also want real bearings on the suspension but it is not as critical as the roadwheels.
Engine grills are molded fixed. It would have been nice to see them mounted on real hinges. The photo-etched grills that go on top have not been installed yet to avoid damage during the build.
Somehow, the upper hull is 1mm too short compared to the lower hull. I do not see where I could have made a mistake, everything was installed pretty tight and as per instructions. The gap will need to be filled with a plasticard strip. Or maybe caused by an issue I have seen at the front. Need further investigations.
Left view.
The mud guard prevents the tip of the front lower hull from lining up correctly with the upper hull. Need to check to confirm with references first on how to fix this. Maybe I am positioning the upper hull too much at the front, creating that gap at the back.
Last edited by lmcq11 on Wed May 27, 2020 1:10 pm, edited 10 times in total.
Re: M551 Sheridan Airborne light tank - Vietnam - build
Despite its shortcomings and a design that cut quite a few corners, it is really a good looking Sheridan hull.
Next step, the turret.
regards, Louis
Next step, the turret.
regards, Louis
Last edited by lmcq11 on Wed May 27, 2020 1:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- Harry Serpent
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Re: M551 Sheridan Airborne light tank - Vietnam - build
The mud guard Do, prevent the top hull from sitting properly. With a little time and care you can get a perfect fit.
I have almost completed My M551 and it runs absolutely fine. Your comments regarding the Turret rotation are unjustified it runs smooth and fast as it should do.
My M551 has seen action at Southwest model show at Bovy, And was run for about 4 hrs a day and preformed flawless,my assessment of the New Tamiya Radio, gearboxes
and electronics, is Tamiya are back on top and are well a head of the competition.
I have almost completed My M551 and it runs absolutely fine. Your comments regarding the Turret rotation are unjustified it runs smooth and fast as it should do.
My M551 has seen action at Southwest model show at Bovy, And was run for about 4 hrs a day and preformed flawless,my assessment of the New Tamiya Radio, gearboxes
and electronics, is Tamiya are back on top and are well a head of the competition.
Harry Serpent Profesional Coffin Dodger.
Re: M551 Sheridan Airborne light tank - Vietnam - build
Looking good thus far Louis!
Here's how I handled the "gap" between the upper and the front of the lower allowing me to keep the fit at the back tight.
Barry
Here's how I handled the "gap" between the upper and the front of the lower allowing me to keep the fit at the back tight.
Barry
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
Leonardo Da Vinci
Leonardo Da Vinci
Re: M551 Sheridan Airborne light tank - Vietnam - build
A replacement drive shaft for the PDSGB gearbox that fits Tamiya tanks would be relatively simple to do and would probably sell well. I know I'm not the only person who has contacted DKLM about them but last time I checked they still don't have any plans to make them. It would make converting the Tamiya static kits much easier.lmcq11 wrote:Agree, maybe Max-U52 could make and sell these on eBay.mcevoyi wrote:I really wish mato would make ..replacement gearboxes form all the tamiya tanks Woundee why thsy don't because there's certainly a large market for them ?
Re: M551 Sheridan Airborne light tank - Vietnam - build
Thank you Harry Serpent for the feedback. When I look at what could make the $500 price difference between the full option and the static version, it is pretty clear that the fabulous DMD T-11 control unit is the main factor. The rest of the equipment is pretty much standard stuff.Harry Serpent wrote:My M551 has seen action at Southwest model show at Bovy, And was run for about 4 hrs a day and preformed flawless,my assessment of the New Tamiya Radio, gearboxesand electronics, is Tamiya are back on top and are well a head of the competition.
That's great, thank you Barry. I am thinking about a metal strip to make the plastic frontal armor side tips stronger. Mine always want to bend towards the outside.BarryC wrote:Here's how I handled the "gap" between the upper and the front of the lower allowing me to keep the fit at the back tight.
Continuing with the build.
My model is rear heavy. Not sure if it is because the Mato gearbox is heavier than the Tamiya gearbox or the springs on the static version are lighter. The springs do seem to be the same when I look at the specs of the full option so something is wrong somewhere. In any cases, I do not like to see my tank rear heavy, nor I am I fan of the fake dampers. So I decided to do something about it. The real tank has dampers, its not for nothing.
I figured that whatever the results I could achieve, losing the look and feel of this part would not be a great loss to the model.
I eliminated the fake molded-in rear dampers, sanding them with the Dremel with a angle towards the outside so that the new damper tip would meet the center of the roadwheel attachment point. Its not possible to remove more material to make it like the real Sheridan damper because the gearbox wall is just behind.
I earlier cannibalized a WPL pickup in my junkyard for various parts for build. A junkyard is very important to a builder. It is now the donor for two of its dampers.
The original at the top is reduced in size to fit the allocated space on the Sheridan, providing about 10mm of compression. It's not a lot but enough. It is sanded flat on the other side so that it can be glued to its new base, keeping enough material so that the spring is not exposed, other than at the very top. The top part needs to be thin so that it does not touch the tracks.
To keep things simple and solid, the new damper is glued where the old one was, aligned with the center of the roadwheel and the angle of the suspension arm swing.
An connector is made, replacing the shorter bolt that was keeping the roadwheel in place on the suspension arm. It is important that the nut be solidly placed against the suspension arm, so that the damper attachment is kept loose for good flexibility.
View of the connection between the damper and the suspension arm. The nut is under the WPL damper cap and is not visible here.
It is not obvious that the fake damper was replaced by a working one. The idea for a working damper is not for the look but for its utility.
The reworked WPL damper provides just enough pressure to give the suspension a boost and position the rear suspension arm where it should rest, keeping the model strait. I am happy with the results. No need to make front dampers.
Last edited by lmcq11 on Mon Jun 01, 2020 3:01 am, edited 6 times in total.
Re: M551 Sheridan Airborne light tank - Vietnam - build
I was curious about the situation inside the turret and decided to start it tonight so that i could order any needed parts asap. Shipping is so slow these days.
I was pleased when i noticed that the static version comes with the main parts for the gun recoil and elevation. So, I just need to order two standard servos size 40x20x37 and create a push rod to have gun recoil and elevation at an expense of about $25. And then some LEDs for main gun and Coax Mg flash. It's too simple...
Elevation pivot has nice ball bearings. Notice the window and attachment point of the barrel to the recoil servo arm, provided.
Need to wait for the servos to push further on the turret interior.
I am extremely pleased with the details and cast texture of the mantlet. Tamiya at its best.
Regards, Louis
I was pleased when i noticed that the static version comes with the main parts for the gun recoil and elevation. So, I just need to order two standard servos size 40x20x37 and create a push rod to have gun recoil and elevation at an expense of about $25. And then some LEDs for main gun and Coax Mg flash. It's too simple...
Elevation pivot has nice ball bearings. Notice the window and attachment point of the barrel to the recoil servo arm, provided.
Need to wait for the servos to push further on the turret interior.
I am extremely pleased with the details and cast texture of the mantlet. Tamiya at its best.
Regards, Louis
- Harry Serpent
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Re: M551 Sheridan Airborne light tank - Vietnam - build
This may be of useful due out any time now
Harry Serpent Profesional Coffin Dodger.
Re: M551 Sheridan Airborne light tank - Vietnam - build
Oh, thank you ! Your information prompted me to go check out the Voyager website, there is a couple of other items for the Sheridan.Harry Serpent wrote:This may be of useful due out any time now
First, I wanted to compare the Voyager grills with the ones provided by Tamiya. I have not installed them yet but the difference I can see is that the Voyager grills are designed to fix inside the Tamiya frame, while Tamiya grill have a frame of their own and are probably meant to sit on top on the plastic ones. I will need to check that.
No doubt that the Voyager grills compare well to the real thing.
Also notice the set contains a part for the gun rifling. That's interesting.
The Tamiya inner sides of the roadwheel are not good looking, and it shows from outside close up.
Voyager offers a set to fix that.
I've also seem these ammo boxes. They look good but must take a lot of effort to build.
Thanks, Louis