TAMIYA M1A2 Displaymodel

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kintaroukinji
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Re: TAMIYA M1A2 Displaymodel

Post by kintaroukinji »

What I don't like is the panel on the left rear engine deck of this model, to the right of the rectangular engine grille. This part has a smooth surface and seems to be different from an actual tank. I feel that it is a complete omission as a model.
???????3.JPG
Since many AFV modelers have pointed out, I modified them. I just put the extra etching parts there.
???????13.JPG
Also, it is a small part, but I added a handle to three CIPs.
CIP2.JPG
I intend to re-add the track recoil function to this M1A2. On the HengLong RX18, the micro switch at the end of the barrel is turned on when the barrel is recoiled, causing a track recoil. However, because the switch is at the end, the hull recoils when the barrel reaches the end. HengLong's track recoil is so exaggerated that many people dislike it. When I put TORRO's RX18 on this Abrams, it seems that it is not so exaggerated track recoil, so I will try track recoil. A switch is placed in front of the barrel so that a track recoil also occurs when the barrel recoil begins. The rigidity setting of the switch metal leaf spring is subtle. If the deformation is not within the elastic range, it will plastically deform during repetition and track recoil will not occur. If the switch contact time is too short, recoil will not occur.
A plastic plate is attached to the back to insulate the switch from being turned on when the switch is kicked during barrel recoil back. The distance between the fixed point and the contact point of the leaf spring switch and the leaf spring stiffness were adjusted by trial and error, and it worked properly.
phpBB [video]


However, I still feel that mechanical contact makes operation unstable. I thought that if a relay switch could be used, it would work better. When I made ATRC (anti-track recoil circuit) before, there was an extra relay switch (5V DPDT relay). It doesn't need to be DPDT, and SPDT is actually good, but I tried using this one.
As a result, it works just like a video. In the video below, the mechanical contacts have been removed. The trigger of the relay switch uses one of the USM-HL2 outputs (pulse), so the contact time can be adjusted in 0.1 second units by software. Since there is less wiring and no mechanical contact is required here, the track recoil reliability and stability seem to be better.
phpBB [video]


The black box is the DPDT and the green one is the connection terminal, all of which are attached to the PCB. In this picture these are temporarily placed on the turret to check the operation.
DPDT1.JPG
The back of the PCB is a simple wiring between the connection terminal and DPDT and a diode (1N4148) for resistance and reverse current prevention.
DPDT3_01.JPG
With this method, all of these can be stored in the under hull with the RX 18 and sound board, so the wiring between the turret and the hull does not increase.

The remaining work to be done on this tank model is painting (including weathering). I also want to use a slip ring to allow the turret to rotate 360 degrees. However, adopting a slip ring has two problems.
First, the vertical space from the turret to the under hull is small. Second, when I place the battery in the turret, I need a slip ring with a cable that can withstand the power current. (However, its dimensions are necessarily larger)
Since this model (full operation) was originally designed to set the battery in the turret, it is generally better to place the battery in the turret even if it is modified.
kintaroukinji
Lance Corporal
Posts: 156
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2018 4:46 am

TAMIYA M1A2 Displaymodel

Post by kintaroukinji »

I will paint this model. HengLong's M1A2 omits the anti-slip pattern, while the TAMIYA model does. However, when compared to that of a real tank, this anti-slip pattern is finer and more neat. (I have never seen the anti-slip pattern of the actual tank with my own eyes, but I judged it from the photograph.)
So, I used resin powder for art nails. There are various powder colors and a single color is not enough, so I used them appropriately.
resin powder for art nail
resin powder for art nail
After masking the necessary parts, paint PETROLE on the surface, and spread the resin powder evenly on it to fix the powder. It ’s a glittering tank.
????.JPG
After drying, spray a surfacer and Light Sand color(lacquer) on it.
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For 1/35 scale model, it is more effective to emphasize shade painting that give a three-dimensional effect, filtering, striking, washing, and chipping more prominently than a real tank. However, painting a large-scale model such as 1/16 in the same way can be too unnatural and uncomfortable.
Modern tanks often have a single paint color, which can result in a monotonous paint finish. Since the paint itself is chemical agent resistant coating(CARC), there are few cases where the paint is peeled and faded like WW? tanks.
For these reasons, painting a large modern tank model is difficult, so I worry too.

There are many parts omitted in the decals attached to this model, so I made my own using a ultra-thin transfer sticker. I transcribed the mark taken with the camera and the text written with a word processor on the sticker. This is an eagle mark that enlarged the decal of 1 / 35 scale MengModel M1A2 kit. It worked pretty well.
????1.JPG
Last edited by kintaroukinji on Sun Mar 01, 2020 2:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
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BarryC
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Re: TAMIYA M1A2 Displaymodel

Post by BarryC »

Nicely done sir!

Barry
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
Leonardo Da Vinci
kintaroukinji
Lance Corporal
Posts: 156
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2018 4:46 am

Re: TAMIYA M1A2 Displaymodel

Post by kintaroukinji »

BarryC wrote:Nicely done sir!

Barry
Thank you sir.
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HERMAN BIX
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Re: TAMIYA M1A2 Displaymodel

Post by HERMAN BIX »

That non slip is very ingenious.
There are so many facets to getting a modern tank right.
HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
kintaroukinji
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Re: TAMIYA M1A2 Displaymodel

Post by kintaroukinji »

Thank you for your comment. I think there are various ways to express non slip. Since the painting area is large in this 1/16 scale model, the method of fixing the particles with the putty lightly dissolved in lacquer thinner makes the smell of the volatile agent during work intense. Odless thinner is easy to apply with a brush and does not smell very strong, so I think it is particularly suitable for fixing particles over a large area.
kintaroukinji
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2018 4:46 am

DECAL

Post by kintaroukinji »

I'm still working on the details of the 1/16 M1A2 little by little. The topic this time is decals. Decals for 1/16 scale models have less choice than 1/35 scale decals. In particular, despite the fact that the modern tank has quite a variety of indications, many of these decals are omitted in the 1/16 model kit decals.
Compared to the 1/35 kit, the lack of variety and omissions of the decal are terrible. Third-party decals can be obtained, but the collection is limited and expensive. After all, I have no choice but to make decals.
For large and simple color marks and characters, there is a method of painting with a stencil, but if it is fine or small, it is impossible. Even in this M1A2 tank, there are many detailed indications unique to the modern tank. In particular, the notes I noticed are "NO STEP", "LIFT HERE", "NO LIFT", "THIS SIDE OFF", "UP ?", and "TOW TIE DOWN". Modern tanks have a lot of optics, precision, and protective equipment, so these notes will be needed here and there.
This time, I used a transfer sticker for inkjet printers that can make tattoo stickers.?
DECAL
DECAL
Photographs and characters enlarged to an appropriate size are printed right and left reversed, and I transfer them to film and paste on the target area. Here is an example (although it is a small) used for characters.
decal2.JPG
decal4.JPG
decal7.JPG
The transfer sticker used is less vivid than the water transfer mark in the model kit, but the adhesive strength seems to be strong. There is no problem when putting dark color characters or marks on a light color background. Conversely, if you paste a light color mark or character on a dark base such as black, the character or mark will be almost invisible because it loses the color of the background. In that case, paint the?target area in a color such as white. Then write the light-colored character on the required dark color background in the print software and paste it on the target area. If white remains in the target area, there is no problem if you paint a dark background color later.
decal11.JPG
kintaroukinji
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Additional battery hatch

Post by kintaroukinji »

In the remodeling and detail improvement of Tamiya M1A2, this time is the remodeling of the left side of the engine room of the tank. This model is a very early type of M1A2, and there is a fuel filler cap at the corresponding location.
The tank was equipped with a gas turbine engine and consumed very large amounts of fuel, especially at idle and in standby. This model is a fuel tank type, since Tamiya modeled an early version M1A2 in Operation Iraqi Freedom. I was wondering whether to remodel, but because this is not the mainstream type of M1A2, I decided to remodel it to a internal auxiliary power pack type. Removing the molded fuel filler cap will result in a hole in the location.
???1.JPG
Referring to the actual tank photo and the 1/35 model, I put several 0.5mmt plastic plates on the top to make the battery hatch, and made dummy hinges with plastic material, and handles with brass material.

This is a picture with the battery lid temporarily set that has been blown the oxide red surfacer.
???10.JPG
???11.JPG
Then apply anti-slip on this surface and blow light sand color lacquer.
??B42.JPG
I used ABER 1.5? NUMBERS for the small numbers displayed on the lid surface. These are very small and hardly noticeable, but they are my complacency. I don't intend to take this model to the craft level (I don't have such skill and patience), so I think I should compromise somewhere.
??B64.JPG
??B82.JPG
I think one indicator of the appearance detailing level is the 1/35 scale model of Mengmodel. However, I am still worried because setting such a level still leaves much to be worked on in this model.
kintaroukinji
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TAMIYA M1A2 Displaymodel

Post by kintaroukinji »

I further modified the model to the next point.
?Fixed blow-off panel shape behind turret
?Add BFT (Blue Force Tracker system) antenna to the right rear of the turret.
?Add a spare battery box in the turret bustle rack.

This is a spare battery box before painting.
The attachment BT3_02.JPG is no longer available
BFT and spare battery were installed after painting.
BT3_02.JPG
BFT50_02.JPG
BFT52_01_01.JPG
I inserted a 1608 LED chip soldered with enamel wire at the tip of the barrel to enable firing of the M2 heavy machine gun.
M2 machine gun is the parts of the TAMIYA 1/16 scale tank (Sherman). I cut the Evergreen Model 3/32 polystyrene tube to the length of barrel and pass the enamel wire through the polystyrene tube. Before that, I cut the outer diameter to taper the polystyrene tube by biting it into a router.
To avoid electrical shorts in the LED weld I used plastic tubes instead of metal for the barrel.
Glue the plastic tube to the machine gun body with the barrel cut.
MG?????2.JPG
MG?????2.JPG (92.78 KiB) Viewed 3911 times
BFT61_02.JPG
That's almost all the details. But modern tanks are hard for me. The actual tanks are constantly being remodeled and there are various versions, so collecting information is also difficult. This model was modeled on a bare-bones modern tank (early prototype, abandoned tanks for outdoor exhibitions with almost no equipment), so there are many parts that need to be modified or improved in detail.
Last edited by kintaroukinji on Mon Apr 27, 2020 2:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
kintaroukinji
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Posts: 156
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2018 4:46 am

Tank crew figurel

Post by kintaroukinji »

While I was working on the details and modification of the 1/16 M1A2 Abrams, I thought that I still needed a tank crew. However, I can't find the 1/16 scale modern US tank crew figure model. (Although there is 1/35 ...)
I have a Tamiya 1/16 world figure series bundeswehr tank crewman, but the uniform and headgear shape are completely different. US tankers wear body armor and bulletproof vests. In the end, I decided to remodel the upper half of Tamiya's 1/16 modern US Army infantry. The uniform and accessories of the figure kit are almost the same as the tank crew, but the model is a standing and holding a rifle pose and the helmet is different in shape from the CVC helmet for tank crew.
I first cut the arms holding a rifle pose, then processed and re-created them using brass wire and poly putty so that the arms would fit to their natural positions when the figure was on the tank. Since the wrist is shaped like a hand to trigger the gun, I used the extra wrist (with gloves) of the bundeswhehr tanker set. Modern tank crews weren't likely to have bare hands while they were on the tank, so it was just right. This is a state where the arm and hands are fitted to the tank without the head yet.
IMG_20200414_172109_01.JPG
I scratched the headphones and microphone, converted the kit infantry helmet into a CVC helmet, painted the face of the figure with vallejo acrylic paint, and put it on the body.
IMG_20200414_171933_01.JPG
There are a few things to keep in mind about the poses of modern tank crew figures. It is unacceptable to set the pose where the crew is out of the cupola and looking into the binoculars. Modern tanks have more sophisticated optic instruments than binoculars, allowing the crew to observe inside a safe vehicle. In combat or training, tank crews do not have to take the risk of being sniper targets with their body out of the cupola for observation.
figure2_01.JPG
figure5_01.JPG
figure13_01.JPG
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