TAMIYA M1A2 Displaymodel

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Postby jarndice » Sun Oct 27, 2019 9:47 am

Roy Your comments raise a question ?
When Heng Long first put on sale their much flawed BUT affordable 1/16 Tiger1 it soon produced a body of modellers who worked their backsides off fixing those perceived failings,
Being altruistic people they wanted to share this knowledge and et voila the "FORUM" was born,
My Question being, If Tamiya had produced their Tiger1 with all the precision and detail that we have come to admire and place ourselves in penury to acquire but for a similar price to Heng Longs less than perfect example would there have been any incentive to create the "Forum" ?
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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sun Oct 27, 2019 10:32 am

jarndice wrote:Roy Your comments raise a question ?
When Heng Long first put on sale their much flawed BUT affordable 1/16 Tiger1 it soon produced a body of modellers who worked their backsides off fixing those perceived failings,
Being altruistic people they wanted to share this knowledge and et voila the "FORUM" was born,
My Question being, If Tamiya had produced their Tiger1 with all the precision and detail that we have come to admire and place ourselves in penury to acquire but for a similar price to Heng Longs less than perfect example would there have been any incentive to create the "Forum" ?


Having spent years getting nothing creative done, because of the (then) basket of bollocks that Microsoft operating systems were, and then-eventually- finding meaningful digital life after MS OS in Mac OS- I get your point, Shaun.
Yes, some people love to tinker; whether something is 'broke' or not. :D and so, even if HL's Tiger 1 had clanked onto the scene in perfect trim, some folk would have stripped it down to see what made it tick. After that, the more OCD among our members would have invented niggles, if necessary, requiring remedial treatment. That way, the urge to tweak would have been satisfied. :lolno:
In any event, there would have been enhancements for the general behoof (and the satisfaction of collecting 'likes'), and shootouts at club level. In short, the Forum would have come into existence anyway- and, I'm glad it did. :D :thumbup:
Lastly, what's perfect to one person, appears flawed to another (irrespective of the values used). Thus, a Taigen Tiger 1, painted professionally, might appear perfect to one person, but to a Shaun, the embossed
tools on the deck would be a constant source of irritation. :D
Don't overlook the fact the Forum also delves into historical conflicts (also creates them sometimes... :lolno: ), other RC vehicles, and even Rugby matches. In the latter instance, the more quibble-minded can discuss the new tech employed in games, to decide whether a try really was a try... :wave:
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Postby kintaroukinji » Sun Oct 27, 2019 4:01 pm

43rdRecceReg wrote:
kintaroukinji wrote:Thank you for your comment. This is the first time that I have hybridized the TAMIYA 1/16 model. TAMIYA's full operation kit is high quality and attractive, but expensive. Moreover, it is difficult to change its operation function. There is much room for remodeling and ditelling the appearance. In Japan, DMD can be purchased as an after-part from TAMIYA at a lower cost than ELMOD. The completeness as one product is excellent for TAMIYA full operation, but a third-party sound controller is good for me because I can enjoy my favorite functions and sounds.


Out of curiosity, how well are the Heng Long gearboxes performing with the Tamiya running gear? In general, I find there is a quality and precision feel to Tamiya transmission assemblies. Everything fits where it should, and kits always seem to have the correct screws, bolts, and other fixings. By contrast, the reaming, thread repair, and minor surgery sometimes needed with Asiatam, Taigen, and Heng Long running gear, is almost totally absent with Tamiya products. :thumbup:
However, many feel the track tensioners in some models should be replaced with Henntec alternatives.


As long as I run this Abrams on the floor or carpet in the room, so far the HengLong plastic gearbox is working smoothly. This tank can get over obstacles such as books without any problems.
However, if the tank runs harshly on an outdoor lawn or wasteland, the plastic gearbox may be vulnerable. The reason why I chose the spare HengLong plastic gearbox for this tank was to see if a gearbox compatible with the HengLong chassis could be built into the TAMIYA M1A2 Abrams chassis without any major modifications. In the future I also consider replacing it with a more powerful and durable metal gear unit.
The gear unit used in this TAMIYA model is a differential gear with separate motors for running and steering, which is expensive, very sophisticated and high performance. When using this gear, a controller with a function that can control the differential gear is required.
This TAMIYA M1A2 model kit(also display model) has a simple track tensioner function on the idler wheel. I think that this track tensioner function can be used as long as this chassis is used even if the gearbox is changed.

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Postby jim2955 » Tue Dec 17, 2019 5:58 pm

I have enjoyed your build a great deal. I am in the process of the same build at this time. I bought a cheap ($350) static Tamiya Model kit and I am converting it to full RC . I am using a slightly different set of gear boxes and a Clark TK22 board I already had. I just acquired the Tamiya turret rotation unit so i can go to the next step in by build process. I have one question , I have found that the output shafts for the gear boxes are too short to make the drive sprockets sit in the correct location did you have this problem at all ?
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Postby kintaroukinji » Wed Dec 18, 2019 4:13 am

Hello Jim.
I diverted the plastic gear box that was originally attached to the HengLong King Tiger, but there was no problem with the length of the output shaft. The gearbox plate (BA20) and C5 parts from the kit were also used for the shaft penetration. However, instead of using the final shaft of the kit, I mounted the MATO metal drive sprocket (compatible with HengLong) directly on the drive sprocket shaft of the gearbox.
If it's different, I'm sorry, but is your gear BOX a short type that fits for example a HengLong Sherman tank? There are short and long types of HengLong gearboxes.

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Postby jim2955 » Wed Dec 18, 2019 9:59 pm

Ahhh I see thanks maybe I would be better off with a long shaft gear box then. I don't plan on using the final drive shaft from the Tamiya kit either I just have that in because I first built the kit complete as is then I started the conversion process. I also have a set of Mato drive sprockets I plan to attach direct to the Mato gear boxes. They work very well with the Tamiya tracks. Did you support the dive shafts at all in the chassis of the tank ? Bushings or bearings ?

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Postby jarndice » Wed Dec 18, 2019 10:52 pm

Hi, Just about every type of gearbox made by Taigen or Heng Long are available in either long shaft or short shaft versions,
A visit to www.rctank.de or www.forgebeartanks.com will give you an idea of what fits and also the sizes of the output shafts as well as the bearings prices and sizes.
Once you have found out which is right for your Tank the next thing to discover is the diameter of the output shafts for only then can you order the correct size output shaft bearings which in my very very umble opinion are essential for smooth and stress free running of the transmission.
I do not know if the Tamiya sprockets will fit the Taigen or Heng Long gearbox output shafts or indeed if the Heng Long and Taigen Sprockets are interchangeable.
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Postby Jimster » Thu Dec 19, 2019 12:27 am

I wish there was a industry standard to allow for complete compatibility for shafts and sprockets. How awesome would that be?

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Postby jarndice » Thu Dec 19, 2019 1:00 am

Until recently the gearbox output shaft sizes were not listed by most makers which made ordering output shaft bearings a bit of a guessing game :lolno:
Thank goodness common sense has prevailed. :thumbup:
Now we have to hope that common sense will produce interchangeable sprockets.
Don't hold your breath.
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Postby kintaroukinji » Thu Dec 19, 2019 5:11 am

jim2955 wrote:Ahhh I see thanks maybe I would be better off with a long shaft gear box then. I don't plan on using the final drive shaft from the Tamiya kit either I just have that in because I first built the kit complete as is then I started the conversion process. I also have a set of Mato drive sprockets I plan to attach direct to the Mato gear boxes. They work very well with the Tamiya tracks. Did you support the dive shafts at all in the chassis of the tank ? Bushings or bearings ?


At present, I am not using Bushing or Bearing. I use this kit's gearbox plate (BA20) instead of the bushing to support the drive shaft. The drive shaft diameter of the gearbox and the hole diameter of this gearbox plate match exactly. If you want to make the support part even stronger, I think it would be good to use “axle supports with ball bearings 7.99mm” instead of C5 parts on the outside of the tank case. However, a new hole must be drilled in the case to install the axle supports.

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Postby kintaroukinji » Tue Dec 24, 2019 9:43 am

What I don't like is the panel on the left rear engine deck of this model, to the right of the rectangular engine grille. This part has a smooth surface and seems to be different from an actual tank. I feel that it is a complete omission as a model.
エンジングリル3.JPG


Since many AFV modelers have pointed out, I modified them. I just put the extra etching parts there.
エンジングリル13.JPG


Also, it is a small part, but I added a handle to three CIPs.
CIP2.JPG


I intend to re-add the track recoil function to this M1A2. On the HengLong RX18, the micro switch at the end of the barrel is turned on when the barrel is recoiled, causing a track recoil. However, because the switch is at the end, the hull recoils when the barrel reaches the end. HengLong's track recoil is so exaggerated that many people dislike it. When I put TORRO's RX18 on this Abrams, it seems that it is not so exaggerated track recoil, so I will try track recoil. A switch is placed in front of the barrel so that a track recoil also occurs when the barrel recoil begins. The rigidity setting of the switch metal leaf spring is subtle. If the deformation is not within the elastic range, it will plastically deform during repetition and track recoil will not occur. If the switch contact time is too short, recoil will not occur.
A plastic plate is attached to the back to insulate the switch from being turned on when the switch is kicked during barrel recoil back. The distance between the fixed point and the contact point of the leaf spring switch and the leaf spring stiffness were adjusted by trial and error, and it worked properly.
phpBB [video]


However, I still feel that mechanical contact makes operation unstable. I thought that if a relay switch could be used, it would work better. When I made ATRC (anti-track recoil circuit) before, there was an extra relay switch (5V DPDT relay). It doesn't need to be DPDT, and SPDT is actually good, but I tried using this one.
As a result, it works just like a video. In the video below, the mechanical contacts have been removed. The trigger of the relay switch uses one of the USM-HL2 outputs (pulse), so the contact time can be adjusted in 0.1 second units by software. Since there is less wiring and no mechanical contact is required here, the track recoil reliability and stability seem to be better.
phpBB [video]


The black box is the DPDT and the green one is the connection terminal, all of which are attached to the PCB. In this picture these are temporarily placed on the turret to check the operation.
DPDT1.JPG


The back of the PCB is a simple wiring between the connection terminal and DPDT and a diode (1N4148) for resistance and reverse current prevention.
DPDT3_01.JPG

With this method, all of these can be stored in the under hull with the RX 18 and sound board, so the wiring between the turret and the hull does not increase.

The remaining work to be done on this tank model is painting (including weathering). I also want to use a slip ring to allow the turret to rotate 360 degrees. However, adopting a slip ring has two problems.
First, the vertical space from the turret to the under hull is small. Second, when I place the battery in the turret, I need a slip ring with a cable that can withstand the power current. (However, its dimensions are necessarily larger)
Since this model (full operation) was originally designed to set the battery in the turret, it is generally better to place the battery in the turret even if it is modified.

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Postby kintaroukinji » Tue Feb 25, 2020 3:46 pm

I will paint this model. HengLong's M1A2 omits the anti-slip pattern, while the TAMIYA model does. However, when compared to that of a real tank, this anti-slip pattern is finer and more neat. (I have never seen the anti-slip pattern of the actual tank with my own eyes, but I judged it from the photograph.)
So, I used resin powder for art nails. There are various powder colors and a single color is not enough, so I used them appropriately.
ビーズ1.JPG
resin powder for art nail

After masking the necessary parts, paint PETROLE on the surface, and spread the resin powder evenly on it to fix the powder. It ’s a glittering tank.
滑り止め.JPG

After drying, spray a surfacer and Light Sand color(lacquer) on it.
滑り止め2.JPG

滑り止め11.JPG

For 1/35 scale model, it is more effective to emphasize shade painting that give a three-dimensional effect, filtering, striking, washing, and chipping more prominently than a real tank. However, painting a large-scale model such as 1/16 in the same way can be too unnatural and uncomfortable.
Modern tanks often have a single paint color, which can result in a monotonous paint finish. Since the paint itself is chemical agent resistant coating(CARC), there are few cases where the paint is peeled and faded like WWⅡ tanks.
For these reasons, painting a large modern tank model is difficult, so I worry too.

There are many parts omitted in the decals attached to this model, so I made my own using a ultra-thin transfer sticker. I transcribed the mark taken with the camera and the text written with a word processor on the sticker. This is an eagle mark that enlarged the decal of 1 / 35 scale MengModel M1A2 kit. It worked pretty well.
砲塔番号1.JPG
Last edited by kintaroukinji on Sun Mar 01, 2020 3:18 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby BarryC » Tue Feb 25, 2020 8:30 pm

Nicely done sir!

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Postby kintaroukinji » Wed Feb 26, 2020 7:43 am

BarryC wrote:Nicely done sir!

Barry

Thank you sir.

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Postby HERMAN BIX » Wed Feb 26, 2020 8:45 pm

That non slip is very ingenious.
There are so many facets to getting a modern tank right.
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Postby kintaroukinji » Thu Feb 27, 2020 2:20 pm

Thank you for your comment. I think there are various ways to express non slip. Since the painting area is large in this 1/16 scale model, the method of fixing the particles with the putty lightly dissolved in lacquer thinner makes the smell of the volatile agent during work intense. Odless thinner is easy to apply with a brush and does not smell very strong, so I think it is particularly suitable for fixing particles over a large area.

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Postby kintaroukinji » Mon Mar 09, 2020 2:42 pm

I'm still working on the details of the 1/16 M1A2 little by little. The topic this time is decals. Decals for 1/16 scale models have less choice than 1/35 scale decals. In particular, despite the fact that the modern tank has quite a variety of indications, many of these decals are omitted in the 1/16 model kit decals.
Compared to the 1/35 kit, the lack of variety and omissions of the decal are terrible. Third-party decals can be obtained, but the collection is limited and expensive. After all, I have no choice but to make decals.
For large and simple color marks and characters, there is a method of painting with a stencil, but if it is fine or small, it is impossible. Even in this M1A2 tank, there are many detailed indications unique to the modern tank. In particular, the notes I noticed are "NO STEP", "LIFT HERE", "NO LIFT", "THIS SIDE OFF", "UP ↑", and "TOW TIE DOWN". Modern tanks have a lot of optics, precision, and protective equipment, so these notes will be needed here and there.
This time, I used a transfer sticker for inkjet printers that can make tattoo stickers. 
decal8.JPG
DECAL


Photographs and characters enlarged to an appropriate size are printed right and left reversed, and I transfer them to film and paste on the target area. Here is an example (although it is a small) used for characters.
decal2.JPG

decal4.JPG

decal7.JPG

The transfer sticker used is less vivid than the water transfer mark in the model kit, but the adhesive strength seems to be strong. There is no problem when putting dark color characters or marks on a light color background. Conversely, if you paste a light color mark or character on a dark base such as black, the character or mark will be almost invisible because it loses the color of the background. In that case, paint the target area in a color such as white. Then write the light-colored character on the required dark color background in the print software and paste it on the target area. If white remains in the target area, there is no problem if you paint a dark background color later.
decal11.JPG

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Postby kintaroukinji » Tue Mar 24, 2020 2:55 pm

In the remodeling and detail improvement of Tamiya M1A2, this time is the remodeling of the left side of the engine room of the tank. This model is a very early type of M1A2, and there is a fuel filler cap at the corresponding location.
The tank was equipped with a gas turbine engine and consumed very large amounts of fuel, especially at idle and in standby. This model is a fuel tank type, since Tamiya modeled an early version M1A2 in Operation Iraqi Freedom. I was wondering whether to remodel, but because this is not the mainstream type of M1A2, I decided to remodel it to a internal auxiliary power pack type. Removing the molded fuel filler cap will result in a hole in the location.
内蔵B1.JPG

Referring to the actual tank photo and the 1/35 model, I put several 0.5mmt plastic plates on the top to make the battery hatch, and made dummy hinges with plastic material, and handles with brass material.

This is a picture with the battery lid temporarily set that has been blown the oxide red surfacer.
内蔵B10.JPG


内蔵B11.JPG

Then apply anti-slip on this surface and blow light sand color lacquer.
内蔵B42.JPG

I used ABER 1.5㎜ NUMBERS for the small numbers displayed on the lid surface. These are very small and hardly noticeable, but they are my complacency. I don't intend to take this model to the craft level (I don't have such skill and patience), so I think I should compromise somewhere.
内蔵B64.JPG


内蔵B82.JPG

I think one indicator of the appearance detailing level is the 1/35 scale model of Mengmodel. However, I am still worried because setting such a level still leaves much to be worked on in this model.

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