M-113A1 Medium Recon Vehicle - Australian Army 1980s - build
Re: M-113A1 Medium Recon Vehicle - Australian Army 1980s - b
The AFV-Model drive gearbox is installed after removal of some resin at the front in order to align the holes as much as possible.
Continuing with the hull buildup with home made parts without interlocking joints.
New hull sides are created, each made of 2 plasticard layers that are glued together, with the right thickness for both. The inner layer is made about 1.5mm shorter at the top and front to reproduce the support groove for the roof and glacis.
Comparison of the Ludwig and newly created part.
Notice the important groove for the roof and glacis support.
Buildup of the M113 hull is well under way.
The Ludwig glacis is used and dry fitted, this part is a left over from the M-113A2 build where I replaced it with the Verlinden Glacis. It will not be glued but will be held in place with magnets.
Continuing on following post.
Continuing with the hull buildup with home made parts without interlocking joints.
New hull sides are created, each made of 2 plasticard layers that are glued together, with the right thickness for both. The inner layer is made about 1.5mm shorter at the top and front to reproduce the support groove for the roof and glacis.
Comparison of the Ludwig and newly created part.
Notice the important groove for the roof and glacis support.
Buildup of the M113 hull is well under way.
The Ludwig glacis is used and dry fitted, this part is a left over from the M-113A2 build where I replaced it with the Verlinden Glacis. It will not be glued but will be held in place with magnets.
Continuing on following post.
Re: M-113A1 Medium Recon Vehicle - Australian Army 1980s - b
Frontal view
Roof support groove recreated using the 2 layers of plasticard glued together.
The rear of the M-113, with its huge opening ramp that can be easily open and close with a servo, is crying from some interior details.
The vision for the model is a partial interior, with rotating turret basket and lighting, up to the engine bulkhead at the front.
Regards, Louis
Roof support groove recreated using the 2 layers of plasticard glued together.
The rear of the M-113, with its huge opening ramp that can be easily open and close with a servo, is crying from some interior details.
The vision for the model is a partial interior, with rotating turret basket and lighting, up to the engine bulkhead at the front.
Regards, Louis
- 43rdRecceReg
- Major
- Posts: 6294
- Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:38 am
- Location: North West Highlands, Scotland
Re: M-113A1 Medium Recon Vehicle - Australian Army 1980s - b
"Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please"- Mark Twain.
-
- Recruit
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2018 12:56 pm
Re: M-113A1 Medium Recon Vehicle - Australian Army 1980s - b
Great job.
I will follow your tread because my ypr 765 has the same undercarriage with roadwheels etc.
I will follow your tread because my ypr 765 has the same undercarriage with roadwheels etc.
Re: M-113A1 Medium Recon Vehicle - Australian Army 1980s - b
Thank you !
The engine maintenance hatch and grills have been built.
As the driver's hatch need to be repositioned to the left and the periscope holes filled up because they have the wrong shape and position, I opted to replace the section completely.
The left grill needs to be reworked to be accurate, references needed. As there were 80,000 M113 built, there are also some variations.
For the headlights, Mato Sherman headlights were modified, they are of the right size.
And installed once the right location has been determined using the 1/35 kit.
The guards are made of thick brass strips and plastic. Notice the AFV-Model US hooks from the MLRS offering, they are a perfect match for the M113. This is a good investment as these hooks are difficult to scratch build and can be purchased for a few Euros. M1x4 bolts are used to hold them in place.
Also notice the AFV-Model MLRS low visibility light on the left, mounted on a copper tube.
Headlights on the left side
Wires are going through the glacis and are barely visible.
Engine grills and exhaust
Continuing on following post
The engine maintenance hatch and grills have been built.
As the driver's hatch need to be repositioned to the left and the periscope holes filled up because they have the wrong shape and position, I opted to replace the section completely.
The left grill needs to be reworked to be accurate, references needed. As there were 80,000 M113 built, there are also some variations.
For the headlights, Mato Sherman headlights were modified, they are of the right size.
And installed once the right location has been determined using the 1/35 kit.
The guards are made of thick brass strips and plastic. Notice the AFV-Model US hooks from the MLRS offering, they are a perfect match for the M113. This is a good investment as these hooks are difficult to scratch build and can be purchased for a few Euros. M1x4 bolts are used to hold them in place.
Also notice the AFV-Model MLRS low visibility light on the left, mounted on a copper tube.
Headlights on the left side
Wires are going through the glacis and are barely visible.
Engine grills and exhaust
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Fri Dec 06, 2019 1:39 am, edited 3 times in total.
Re: M-113A1 Medium Recon Vehicle - Australian Army 1980s - b
Overview of the model today. The MRV will have a trim vane with a floating device that will hide most of the lower glacis.
Showing here the top of the AFV-Club 1/35 M113 MRV that is used as reference.
In preparation for the turret construction and mounting, a new top has been made without the pre-drilled holes. The driver's hatch will also have a different opening device.
Regards,
Louis
Showing here the top of the AFV-Club 1/35 M113 MRV that is used as reference.
In preparation for the turret construction and mounting, a new top has been made without the pre-drilled holes. The driver's hatch will also have a different opening device.
Regards,
Louis
Re: M-113A1 Medium Recon Vehicle - Australian Army 1980s - b
Another modelling adventure brought to us by "Louis the Magnificent"!
Looks like another show stopper Louis!
Barry
Looks like another show stopper Louis!
Barry
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
Leonardo Da Vinci
Leonardo Da Vinci
Re: M-113A1 Medium Recon Vehicle - Australian Army 1980s - b
Thanks Barry but just "Louis the Builder" would do fine.
Continuing with the build. With the delivery of the Henntec Idler adjuster and the Mato Stug III gearboxes, I have concentrated on the running gear.
I got to give it to Guido, his HennTec idler adjusters are unbreakable. This is not ideal for scratch building because I need to take them apart and modify to adapt to the subject. This is a No14 Panther adjuster that I just cut in half in order to mount on the reduced size of the M113.
This is the AFV-Model M113 Idler wheel, with its two (provided) ball bearings and a M4x12 metal pin available on eBay for a few pennies and used as an axle. It turns like a charm.
I installed it like that, first with its central brass reinforcement but later removed as it is in the way of the interior floor. Its really not needed on a small M113.
The hex bolt for the arm adjustment is accessible from a groove at the bottom.
This is a Mato Stug III gearbox that I removed the drive axle. The fact that it is retained with gears can be easily unlocked from the main shaft by hex bolts is wonderful for scratch building. A new drive axle arrangement with the required length is designed and prepared from available material.
A new shaft of 4mm in very thick brass is made to fit the AFV-Model sprocket. As the ball bearing on the Mato gearbox are 5mm, a thin aluminum 5mm spacer tube is used to bridge the gap and goes on top of the brass axle in the gearbox. And in similar fashion as the Mato axle, holes for the hex bolt are drilled to provide a good anchor for the gears on the axle. I had earlier purchased a true 4mm metal axle rod to use but I do not know what kind of material it is made of because it is so strong that I could not even create a scratch on it with my best metal blade. So, I had to go with plan B which is a very solid 4mm and thick brass tube, it should do well.
The new shaft is mounted on the gearbox and tested for weaknesses.
Change in plans. I earlier thought I could only do a partial interior with the Mato gearboxes, I mean without the driver's position. However, because I ordered 2 pairs of gearboxes from MatoMart in order to get the free shipping, I tried many options and I realised that if I use two right side gears, I could position them in a way to free the driver's area and get everything enclosed in the normal engine area of the M113. This is how the gearbox are installed. So now, this M113 MRV will have a full crew compartment interior.
Notice the shaft extension for the right sprocket running through the front of the driver's position, in similar fashion as the real thing. An inner 5mm flanged ball bearing is keeping things aligned.
The height and glacis angle of the M113 allows for unusual gearbox installations and mounting arrangement. After my third M113, I think I finally found the optimal gearbox and installation for those modellers wishing to build the interior.
Continuing on following post
Continuing with the build. With the delivery of the Henntec Idler adjuster and the Mato Stug III gearboxes, I have concentrated on the running gear.
I got to give it to Guido, his HennTec idler adjusters are unbreakable. This is not ideal for scratch building because I need to take them apart and modify to adapt to the subject. This is a No14 Panther adjuster that I just cut in half in order to mount on the reduced size of the M113.
This is the AFV-Model M113 Idler wheel, with its two (provided) ball bearings and a M4x12 metal pin available on eBay for a few pennies and used as an axle. It turns like a charm.
I installed it like that, first with its central brass reinforcement but later removed as it is in the way of the interior floor. Its really not needed on a small M113.
The hex bolt for the arm adjustment is accessible from a groove at the bottom.
This is a Mato Stug III gearbox that I removed the drive axle. The fact that it is retained with gears can be easily unlocked from the main shaft by hex bolts is wonderful for scratch building. A new drive axle arrangement with the required length is designed and prepared from available material.
A new shaft of 4mm in very thick brass is made to fit the AFV-Model sprocket. As the ball bearing on the Mato gearbox are 5mm, a thin aluminum 5mm spacer tube is used to bridge the gap and goes on top of the brass axle in the gearbox. And in similar fashion as the Mato axle, holes for the hex bolt are drilled to provide a good anchor for the gears on the axle. I had earlier purchased a true 4mm metal axle rod to use but I do not know what kind of material it is made of because it is so strong that I could not even create a scratch on it with my best metal blade. So, I had to go with plan B which is a very solid 4mm and thick brass tube, it should do well.
The new shaft is mounted on the gearbox and tested for weaknesses.
Change in plans. I earlier thought I could only do a partial interior with the Mato gearboxes, I mean without the driver's position. However, because I ordered 2 pairs of gearboxes from MatoMart in order to get the free shipping, I tried many options and I realised that if I use two right side gears, I could position them in a way to free the driver's area and get everything enclosed in the normal engine area of the M113. This is how the gearbox are installed. So now, this M113 MRV will have a full crew compartment interior.
Notice the shaft extension for the right sprocket running through the front of the driver's position, in similar fashion as the real thing. An inner 5mm flanged ball bearing is keeping things aligned.
The height and glacis angle of the M113 allows for unusual gearbox installations and mounting arrangement. After my third M113, I think I finally found the optimal gearbox and installation for those modellers wishing to build the interior.
Continuing on following post
Re: M-113A1 Medium Recon Vehicle - Australian Army 1980s - b
The position of the gearbox is tightly calculated, thoroughly tested and the Dremel was used in two places to remove material from the metal gearbox mount in order to fit.
To facilitate the running of the sprocket with its axle at the bottom of the hull, it is essential to get the maximum elevation possible for the gearbox to clear the torsion blades of the first road wheel, and without gears sticking out of the hull.
Everything needs to be calculated for a tight fit.
This is now a gearbox maintenance hatch, convenient.
AFV-Model M113 sprockets are installed.
Assembling the AFV-Model M113 tracks requires patience. In general, the casting is good and there are some rejects but AFV-Model provides a lot of spares, which is great. Cutting these pins to the proper length and giving the end point some strength is the main issue here.
Test fitting of the newly created tracks is as expected, both tracks and sprockets run like a pig. Some links are too loose, sprocket teeth are too sharp, they also need oil. The tracks are taken off and reworked.
Detail views of the AFV-Model M113 tracks and sprockets, without their rubber pads that will be installed at the end of the build.
Regards, Louis
To facilitate the running of the sprocket with its axle at the bottom of the hull, it is essential to get the maximum elevation possible for the gearbox to clear the torsion blades of the first road wheel, and without gears sticking out of the hull.
Everything needs to be calculated for a tight fit.
This is now a gearbox maintenance hatch, convenient.
AFV-Model M113 sprockets are installed.
Assembling the AFV-Model M113 tracks requires patience. In general, the casting is good and there are some rejects but AFV-Model provides a lot of spares, which is great. Cutting these pins to the proper length and giving the end point some strength is the main issue here.
Test fitting of the newly created tracks is as expected, both tracks and sprockets run like a pig. Some links are too loose, sprocket teeth are too sharp, they also need oil. The tracks are taken off and reworked.
Detail views of the AFV-Model M113 tracks and sprockets, without their rubber pads that will be installed at the end of the build.
Regards, Louis
Re: M-113A1 Medium Recon Vehicle - Australian Army 1980s - b
Hi,
On this build, every interior millimeter counts. Some room was grinded into the wall panel so that the gearbox screws can fit inside and providing a couple of extra mm for the driver's position.
Starting the interior. The driver area is still missing a few mm in width but it will look ok from the rear ramp. This is the maximum I could get.
The building of a RC model with interior needs its own standard. While most RC fans like to have their electronics and wires cleanly laid out with strong gearboxes and huge speakers, the focus of this model is to pack as many RC features as possible while aiming for the most accurate model exterior and interior.
This is my third M113 so the general layout of the basic interior is no surprise, however, building the Scorpion turret basket, rotation device, ammo racks and supporting equipment will be a totally new experience. Unlike a tank, the regular M113 is a battle taxi so once it is built, it can only be driven around with stops to open the rear ramp to show the interior. The M113 FSV is a combat vehicle. Operating the turret within a fully detailed interior, viewable from a large lowered ramp really combines both worlds.
Dusty opeations
I had to cheat a bit to fit the TK40 on the side panel, the rear bulkhead was pushed out to the rear by a few mm.
This will be the general planned layout of the electronics. A Clark TK40 on the left panel, Flysky received at the bottom of the rear bulkhead, the battery will be on a tray above the receiver, the rear ramp opening servo will be in front of the driver's area with a push rod towards the rear, and a small HL speaker will be inside the fuel tank at the rear on the right. Remaining free space on the front left will be used for the switch, volume control and battery connector. The front glacis and roof will be held in place with magnets, providing full access to everything.
Its important for the roof to be well supported by the bulkhead and the I beam crossing the rear of the driver's position.
The tracks were reworked by re-tightening every link, then a drop of superglue into each pin end point and a thorough filing of any pin residue outside of the track did the trick. I also rounded the corners of the sprocket teeth with a file. The tracks are now strait, looking good and stable.
Next step, I will put the hull aside for a while and build the turret because I am really curious how my plan for the turret rotation system will work out.
Regards, Louis
On this build, every interior millimeter counts. Some room was grinded into the wall panel so that the gearbox screws can fit inside and providing a couple of extra mm for the driver's position.
Starting the interior. The driver area is still missing a few mm in width but it will look ok from the rear ramp. This is the maximum I could get.
The building of a RC model with interior needs its own standard. While most RC fans like to have their electronics and wires cleanly laid out with strong gearboxes and huge speakers, the focus of this model is to pack as many RC features as possible while aiming for the most accurate model exterior and interior.
This is my third M113 so the general layout of the basic interior is no surprise, however, building the Scorpion turret basket, rotation device, ammo racks and supporting equipment will be a totally new experience. Unlike a tank, the regular M113 is a battle taxi so once it is built, it can only be driven around with stops to open the rear ramp to show the interior. The M113 FSV is a combat vehicle. Operating the turret within a fully detailed interior, viewable from a large lowered ramp really combines both worlds.
Dusty opeations
I had to cheat a bit to fit the TK40 on the side panel, the rear bulkhead was pushed out to the rear by a few mm.
This will be the general planned layout of the electronics. A Clark TK40 on the left panel, Flysky received at the bottom of the rear bulkhead, the battery will be on a tray above the receiver, the rear ramp opening servo will be in front of the driver's area with a push rod towards the rear, and a small HL speaker will be inside the fuel tank at the rear on the right. Remaining free space on the front left will be used for the switch, volume control and battery connector. The front glacis and roof will be held in place with magnets, providing full access to everything.
Its important for the roof to be well supported by the bulkhead and the I beam crossing the rear of the driver's position.
The tracks were reworked by re-tightening every link, then a drop of superglue into each pin end point and a thorough filing of any pin residue outside of the track did the trick. I also rounded the corners of the sprocket teeth with a file. The tracks are now strait, looking good and stable.
Next step, I will put the hull aside for a while and build the turret because I am really curious how my plan for the turret rotation system will work out.
Regards, Louis