challenger 2 which version to get?

[jbarragan]

ok so I'm pretty certain I'm going to get one of these and just looking for a few tips before I jump in! if id have been on here a month ago I would have snapped up the one jake79 had for sale

I'm looking at doing some mechanical customisation, at minimum 360 turret, turret servo/motor, barrel recoil, barrel elevation servo, metal tracks (with rubber blocks), metal wheels, drive wheels and idlers.

I'm thinking I might aswel get the platinum version or should I get one that has already had the mato style track fitted? I found this on ebay but not sure how legit it is? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182066472469? ... EBIDX%3AIT

ive also seen this which seems a bit more legit just without the turret work been done already. http://www.hobbyraw.com/item.jsp?id=1137

I will also be upgrading the electrics as I'm pretty certain I want to get some form of GSU installed but again have many questions and struggling to find conclusive answers on this.

any guidance on any of the above would be much appreciated! cheers josh

[jeman]

Hi Josh, I also luv Challengers and understand why you want one......they just look the part I think the first link with the Chally on ebay has plenty of upgrades already done to it so IF the upgrades have been done well and the Tank runs fine then I would be tempted to get it ! Just ask the seller plenty of questions regarding the rework done to it......and that he can guarantee that it runs fine.....and all feedback is good on there account.......GO FOR IT As for the price.....I think its about right considering the metal parts added. What I would ask is if the metal Gearboxes are white metal (not so good) or steel (good) White metal ones are ok for carpet running but once you start to hit the grass they might find it a struggle......its not a major issue as its a fairly easy process to replace them in the future with steel if you wanted too at about £40.....hope this helps and keep us posted on what you do

All the best
Mark

[jbarragan]

cheers mark, yes there are just so many options!

been wondering if it worth just getting the basic version and adding to it as I go along! I like the look of the taigen gear boxes with full bearings throughout.

as for tracks ive been looking all over the internet and the only set I can find that are true to the real thing are the stainless steel ones for the leopard on the dklm site. yes the most expensive ones going basically! but they are the most realistic ones I can find.

this is a real chally 2 pic
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=ch ... ajaxhist=0

dklm stainless tracks
http://www.dklmrc.com/[DKLM]_Stainless_Steel_Track_for_Tamiya_116_RC_Leopard_2_A6_Main_Battle_Tank_Full-Option_Kit_56019/p2389473_11783244.aspx

and you can see on the mato leopard tracks they are flat between the blocks

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=ma ... ajaxhist=0

anybody know of any others that are more like the dklm ones without the £260 price tag!!

[jeman]

Hi Josh, you could go the way of getting a standard one and then upgrading as you will get a lot of fun in doing so.........and some frustration as we have all been there lol and you would know the tank inside out for sure ! Those DKLM tracks are real nice but like you say the £260 for them is rather pricey, but they would certainly last. Would I prefer them over other metal tracks......not for the price As for the accuracy, once on the tank I don't think it would really notice so there are defo pros and cons. If you want to go the whole accurate scale then I'm sure you will find the one you want. I would still be tempted in getting one with as many metal upgrades as possible and take it from there. Either way your going to have plenty of fun lol. Some of the sound cards on the market are amazing so I would certainly put that on your list to get. Ive got to spray my one so will be doing it over xmas in Desert colours......KINGS ARMY PAINTS are really good......all the military colours available......waterproof and good to go in half hour after spraying.......oh what fun lol

[Jake79]

hey

You don't have to spend £260 on the DKLM tracks...

Max sells a set with the rubber pads for $80
http://norwegianrctank.weebly.com/challenger-2.html

[ryderbike]

I started with a basic model and purchased upgrades as I went along , it gives you an insight into the process if you have to fit your own mods and makes you more adventurous when it comes to the fit and finish stage , its mostly plug and play and most importantly have fun with the whole project , and there is always someone here who has done or tried what ever configuration you can think of , mines waiting for the next allocation of spare funds for barrel recoil at least thats the plan .

[Bob Andrews]

Hi all,I'm new to this site but just to put in my two pennorth of info regarding tracks for HengLong Challenger2.I got a spare set of Tamiya Leopard 2 tracks and they are a perfect fit and have never given me any trouble.they cost me about £90 about two years ago,they've been run outdoors over rough ground,sand and stones/ grass and never been thrown or lost a pad.they fit perfectly.

[NigelDerEnglander]

Hi folks,

I got the basic plastic chally and I've found it throws the tracks really easily when making even the slightest turn. It's fine on my smooth carpet in the house or on the patio but once on grass, even freshly trimmed, the tracks ride off the drive sprocket.
I tried going up a spring notch on the nearest roadwheel which hardly helped. I then removed a track link which made the tracks ridiculously tight and that improves it, but not much.

I attempted to split the drivewheels so I could glue in some form of anti-slip discs but they wouldn't split easily so I gave up. I don't want to damage them.
The only option is to buy metal drivewheels and front idler at ~£50.

anybody got any better ideas? does anybody sell plastic drivewheels with slip preventors or has anyone 3D printed something to do the job as a colleague has a 3D printer?

Tanks,

Nige

[Sub]

Hi.
What gearboxes do you have fitted.?
I have seen some HL gearboxes where the output shaft has a ridiculous amounts of play allowing the shaft to twist moving the sprocket out of allignment thus throwing a track.
Try fitting the external output shaft support bearing makes the shaft solid.
Its a push fit over the drive shaft and into a housing already made on the hull.
About 22 quid for 2.
forgebear sells them among others. Or make up your own
https://www.forgebeartanks.com/store/p7 ... shes_.html
Well worth the upgrade .
Hope its of use.
Sub

[NigelDerEnglander]

Hi Sub,

Thanks for the advice but I forgot to mention, I have put a bearing in of my own to do that. Unfortunately it's not made much difference.
It's the zinc metal gearboxes that it came with and the standard plastic tracks.

Nige

[NigelDerEnglander]

Hi All,
I think I have solved my track problem. The stock plastic drivewheels have no chamfer on the inside of the teeth and a flat tooth top so as soon as they slip a bit on to th track they can then ride on an inner part of the track and ride further along.
I stopped this by chamfering at about 45 degrees or so on the inner of the tooth for about 2mm or so towards the outer edge of the tooth.
so now when the tooth starts to slip the angle pushes it back to the side and no offset can build up and ride the track up onto the tops of the teeth.
due to sunday's rain I haven't been able to try it on the grass but I have been confident enough to put the link back I took out on each side.
Fingers crossed for a dryish lawn tomorrow to try it out!

Nige

[Sub]

Hi.
Glad you figured it out.
Let us know if it has fixed your problem after you try it out and if possible post a picture of your mod.
Regards
Sub.

[NigelDerEnglander]

Hi Sub,
I'm afraid the fix wasn't as successful on the grass as I expected/hoped. It still slipped. I also found another way the teeth ride up on the track link join. Being less confident this time I chamferred a bit more of the teeth of the worst offendeing side - and it got worse!
Doh!
I then decided to fill up the hollow at the back of the suspension arm of the last roadwheel with 5-minute epoxy to stop it flexing and then filled up the rest of the arms on that side at the same time and moved all the roadwheels onto the higher spring tension.
This fixed it.
Whether it was making the arms more rigid with the epoxy, or more likely, increasing the tension so the tracks were tighter, one or both sorted it.
I then did it on the other side but then DIY jobs for the bank holiday weekend took priority.
I'm hoping both sides will now be better.
I'll give it a go tomorrow morning.
Tanks all,
Nige

[IV(AC)]

I've a spare set of unused HL Metal sprockets and front idler if you are interested?

[tomhugill]

Buy these:

https://www.dklmrc.com/%5BDK%5D_116_Met ... 10811.aspx

And a henntec idler adjuster off forgebear.

Also might want to consider stiffening the chassis.

[NigelDerEnglander]

Hi IV(AC)
I sent you a PM about the sprockets and idlers a week ago.
Regards,
Nige

[Sub]

Hi.
Dont think a henntec adjuster would work on a challenger as the front wheel idlers are external to the hull and out in front of the hull.
Sub.

[Jay-Em]

A combi of Tamiya Leopard tracks ( direct fit! Even the length is spot-on) and Heng Long’s own idler and sprocket fixed the track-throwing habit on my Chally 2. Same for the Leopard.

Next one up for that treatment is the A1. That thing throws tracks if one even as much as sneezes in its general direction.. I now understand why many declared the HL A1 one of the worst releases of a modern tank by Heng Long. To long, too flexy, too thin plastic in the tub, etc. Though, admittedly, the high rpm 390 motors may be part of the problem. ( Hey.. I want the speed to match that gorgeous, ear-piercing jet-cat sound the IBU puts out... )

[Sub]

Hi.
I have the M1A2 and its the all metal wheels / tracks and srockets and idler and gearbox version.
I fitted the anti slip ring rear sprockets and it doesnt throw any tracks or rides over the sprocket.
Its also very heavy and i fitted a Honeywell M1 A2 gas turbine engine sound and you are right they dont half howl...
Sub.