and keep it as simple as I can.I will lots of times add different notations along the way that I think will be helpfull,believing to much info is better than not enough.
So please bare with me -- ::)Note--All my examples will pertain to the ( HL Tiger Tank )as it seems allmost everyone "has one" or "will have one.They seem to be the most popular entry level tank.
NON S&S (Smoke and SOUND)
The non S&S tank in general operation will do everything the S&S model tank will do,except have the ability to make smoke and have sound.But with that said---everyone will agree there are other big differences in the way these S&S tanks handle in over all operation,the big one being more proportional speed control and overall operation.(very big difference)
(non S&S ) forward,reverse,turning,super spin,cannon shoots,gun elevation,turret traverse,tank recoil,and lights light up when tank is moving.
(S&S model ) forward,reverse,turning,super spin,---(all with much more proportional speed ) cannon
shoots,gun elevation,turret traverse,tank recoils back--------(now the S&S differences)--------------
---A smoker unit that produces smoke out the back of the tank (can be switched on or off as one desires) And the sound feature---engine start up,engine idling,cannon fire sound,machinegun sound with flashing red "LED LIGHT" to simulate gun fire,engine shut down sound,and LIGHTS that start flashing when tank is turned on,and when start button is pushed engine start up sound can then be herd followed by engine idling sound and lights will remain on until the stop button is pushed.
(Now what is needed to up-grade to full Smoke and Sound model )-------
(1) A new transmitter (radio)--"non-S&S model will not work for the S&S model upgrade
(2) Crystals ("2"--one for transmitter and one for receiver board---must be a matching set of same frequency)
(3) The two boards--the small "receiver board" & the biger "drive board" (some of us refer to them as the small and big board) The small receiver board is used with a choice of any of the (three) driver boards on the market place---13--14--and the newer 18 board.(these boards have a volume control for the sound feature)
(4) The smoker unit---(tank can be run with-out this but you lose the smoking feature)
(5) the speaker for the sound (1) stock speaker will be easyest to install as the mounting holes are allready there.
Now some additional notes----
This is not a how to post,just ment to show what is needed.The above components will go right into the existing NON S&S model.You are just replacing the single board and radio with all the above.
A soldering iron is a must when working on these tanks.They don't have to be expensive and they can be found at any good hardwhare store.I like to use a "paste flux" and a roll of very small diameter solder.Any wire I"m going to solder is first dipped into the flux before soldering it to a board or other wire connection.
You will not have the flashing "LED" light that works in conjunction with the machine gun sound as the NON S&S tank does not have this "LED" light.(installing this can be found elsewhere)
There will be other little slight moddification's that you can get help with along the way,as I'm relying on memory when posting this.
(Buying your fist tank) If you are reading this and have not bought your first tank yet--If it is in your budget---"START RIGHT OFF WITH A SMOKE AND SOUND MODEL" ----I know by reading a lot of the posts here on the forum's it can make a big difference what "country" you live in when it comes to buying tanks as to what is the best way to approach buying a tank.Myself living in the U.S.A. it is only a matter of $10.00 to $15.00 dollars difference between the NON S&S and the S&S model.So it just would not make sense to buy anything other than a S&S model because it would cost allmost as much to up-date one as a new one would cost. Good luck on your venture,and wish you the best.
BIGMIG--
