Jadgpanzer L70/V Build

[dgsselkirk]

Thanks Painless!

The next set of pictures is the detailing of the barrel travel lock. The stock metal one that comes with the kit looks pretty good but because it is so dominant when you look at the front of the tank I decided to dress it up a little to look more like the real one. Took the pic out of my Polish L70 reference book and added the copper/styrene and brass pieces you see here. The lock is fully operational as you can see and does help to steady the barrel when I transport it around just like it should!

Also since I went to all the trouble of doing the zim on the lower hull I didn't want to cover it up by putting the side skirts on so I went with scratch building the small side mounts on the hull. The details I got from a great site for reference on most common tanks:

http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/dmitry ... anther_iv/

I know this is a later model but from what I can see the skirt mounting system was universal to the models.

[dgsselkirk]

And the next pics. This is the first time I have tried PE. It's a challenge! But starting to get the hang of it!

[ALPHA]

And just like that...you are almost done How were your eyes after doing the PE ? not sure mine would be able to take the strain
Did you ever see this video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7-OEAHV824
Different technique... but the guy just like you did a great job ...

Happy Tanking dgsselkirk

ALPHA

[dgsselkirk]

Nope, never saw that one before. For a scratch built pretty sweet. Love the rising crew commander but if I went to all that trouble I would have done recoil too. Once you did the recoil you could get rid of that terrible jerk too. A little jerk is not bad but that just is really toy like.

And it has one of the most common errors you see when guys use the Mk. IV base. They leave the auxiliary engine exhaust on the back. That is where the jack block should be mounted instead... But overall a nice job on it.

I wore my glasses plus a head double magnifier. The vision wasn't the issue it was the shaky hands! And like a lot of other guys talk about when one of those little pieces pops off good luck finding it!

And solder? Forget it. I couldn't do that I just used tiny dots of superglue. I would love to see someone post a youtube of someone soldering 1/16 PE. I just want to see it!

[ALPHA]

Nope, never saw that one before. For a scratch built pretty sweet. Love the rising crew commander but if I went to all that trouble I would have done recoil too. Once you did the recoil you could get rid of that terrible jerk too. A little jerk is not bad but that just is really toy like.

And it has one of the most common errors you see when guys use the Mk. IV base. They leave the auxiliary engine exhaust on the back. That is where the jack block should be mounted instead... But overall a nice job on it.

I wore my glasses plus a head double magnifier. The vision wasn't the issue it was the shaky hands! And like a lot of other guys talk about when one of those little pieces pops off good luck finding it!

And solder? Forget it. I couldn't do that I just used tiny dots of superglue. I would love to see someone post a youtube of someone soldering 1/16 PE. I just want to see it!

From what I've seen that guy do... he's really good... I would suspect he just did it to do it lol....in most of his builds he puts a working IR system with blowback ... seems like this one he just kept it simple... and just used the stock heng long parts

Agree on the PE parts .... Glad you did it and not me lol...It was tough when I had good eyes lol...also agree that 99.9% of the time...soldering those little pieces isn't worth the trouble...when super glue is faster...and works just the same...not to mention the brass stays stronger than when it's heated

Have a good one Dgsselkirk

ALPHA

[tomhugill]

Nope, never saw that one before. For a scratch built pretty sweet. Love the rising crew commander but if I went to all that trouble I would have done recoil too. Once you did the recoil you could get rid of that terrible jerk too. A little jerk is not bad but that just is really toy like.

And it has one of the most common errors you see when guys use the Mk. IV base. They leave the auxiliary engine exhaust on the back. That is where the jack block should be mounted instead... But overall a nice job on it.

I wore my glasses plus a head double magnifier. The vision wasn't the issue it was the shaky hands! And like a lot of other guys talk about when one of those little pieces pops off good luck finding it!

And solder? Forget it. I couldn't do that I just used tiny dots of superglue. I would love to see someone post a youtube of someone soldering 1/16 PE. I just want to see it!

From what I've seen that guy do... he's really good... I would suspect he just did it to do it lol....in most of his builds he puts a working IR system with blowback ... seems like this one he just kept it simple... and just used the stock heng long parts

Agree on the PE parts .... Glad you did it and not me lol...It was tough when I had good eyes lol...also agree that 99.9% of the time...soldering those little pieces isn't worth the trouble...when super glue is faster...and works just the same...not to mention the brass stays stronger than when it's heated

Have a good one Dgsselkirk

ALPHA

If you can solder photo etch do solder it, it's much stronger. It's not the strength of the parts that usually lets you down it's the joint. And super glue isn't always upto it.

[ALPHA]

If you can solder photo etch do solder it, it's much stronger. It's not the strength of the parts that usually lets you down it's the joint. And super glue isn't always upto it.

Cool Tom... question that there lay before us is... after soldering the photo etch.... how do you attach it to a plastic tank? Or any plastic surface
When I did do a lot of other military models... I used to invest in the PE rails and junk...never soldered a thing...just superglued them on...seems soldering irons and plastic just don't jive

Another detriment to soldering is... if you do it ugly... and file it... you thin the brass as well... so it kind of defeats the purpose ... but hey...I don't know Crabs ... so thanks for the tip

Happy Tanking Tom
http://www.combatreform.org/ARMORHISTORY/
ALPHA

[tomhugill]

I soldered most of the photo etch on my norbert build. You don't solder the outside if you can help it but do it externally. When you attach I find it best to solder some 1mm threaded rod onto the PE and then bolt it to the hull (for larger items). Really tiny stuff I'll glue. Also when I'm filling I file the solder not the item so doesn't affect the brass. The other advantage of solder is it fills gaps which CA can struggle to. Each to their own though.

[ALPHA]

I soldered most of the photo etch on my norbert build. You don't solder the outside if you can help it but do it externally. When you attach I find it best to solder some 1mm threaded rod onto the PE and then bolt it to the hull (for larger items). Really tiny stuff I'll glue. Also when I'm filling I file the solder not the item so doesn't affect the brass. The other advantage of solder is it fills gaps which CA can struggle to. Each to their own though.

Yup... main thing is you have fun doing..

Happy Tanking Tom

ALPHA

[dgsselkirk]

I sort of do the same thing on the bigger pieces Tom. I solder a little piece of copper wire and run it into the hull and then bend it down and sometimes epoxy it. I find by using a little copper wire if something hits it the copper bends whereas 1mm threaded rod snaps off. I have heard some guys talking about cold solder but haven't really looked into it...