RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Has anyone tried using a layer of resin to give structural strength to a Heng Long plastic hull?

Thinking it would also give a solid base for the gearboxes to sit on...


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A little while back I decided to do a total rebuild of a very early Heng Long Panzer 4,
I started by cutting out the battery box and dremelling the interior of the plastic hull clear of most obstructions,
I refitted the battery box cover then I laid a floor of "Polyfiller Advanced" then once it was dry I glued a pre-shaped sheet of Velcro to the new floor and the hull sidewalls,
After that it was a case of rewiring the Tank Body with a new daughter board and fitting in the hull a Taigen V2 MFU with Velcro on its base as well as a Lipo battery which with a strip of Velcro is now attached to the side wall of the hull,
Removing the battery box gives a lot more space and is so easy to do I can only say what are you waiting for?
A word of caution you will need some supports in the hull so that you have something left to attach the Tank body too my choice being "Neo-Dymion" Magnets.
Roughing up the surface interior of the hull before applying the Polyfiller is essential otherwise it will breakaway when the Tank is run.

jimbo_wa wrote:Has anyone tried using a layer of resin to give structural strength to a Heng Long plastic hull?

Thinking it would also give a solid base for the gearboxes to sit on...


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Could be a little messy, Jimbo, and in the bonding phase whiffy too (potentially hallucinogenic... ). A while back, someone here was trying to build a Tiger out of carbon fibre, no less. I'm not sure what happened with that one, but the thread seemed to peter out somewhere Maybe he didn't have an effective mask.
Ludwig sells metal frame liners for some models, as with DKLM, and there's certainly a neat looking one for the Challenger, it that's the tank requiring stiffening.
It's easy enough to bond in thicker layers of styrene, especially those that have mortise and tenon style joints for extra rigidity. The same applies to sheet alloy obtainable from model outlets and Ebay.
A floor, or partial floor, made out of alloy would seem like a suitable support for the gearboxes. The only issue then would be with the output shafts being a couple of MM higher than the designed height, and the consequent adjustments needed in the output shaft covers..

Glad to hear that the idea is workable jarndice - I've already removed the battery box and will give it a shot with additional bracing!

Roy, I'll only put enough in so it doesn't go above the existing gearbox mounts and make sure it done outside...

As much as I'd like to use an existing solution, the funds just aren't there - £30 in materials I can justify. In an ideal world I'd get the full DKLM metal lower, but until then, it'll be fuggered!

Thanks Eastern Front, for less than £25 I have purchased three 1m lengths of aluminium angle and plate along with this:

https://www.diy.com/departments/fischer ... 072_BQ.prd

Hopefully it’ll self level in the base of the hull to give a bit of weight and stability...

The aluminium is mostly cut and shaped, and I have a cunning plan for cross bracing!


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So, don't bother getting the B&Q link - totally unsuitable...

Ended up with the starter kit from here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07MZYCDFM



The Dylon is not included but you can colour the resin easily (supposedly)

Just waiting for warm, dry day before getting it poured...

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What about building your own inner tub? You could do with Brass sheet as you only need a soldering iron to weld them together.

Mic wrote:What about building your own inner tub? You could do with Brass sheet as you only need a soldering iron to weld them together.

Belt and braces!



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That'll do the job Will stop any warping!

Paint!?

I don't get far enough along to ever paint anything!

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