M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
- Herr Dr. Professor
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Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Louis, I will be quietly watching this amazing project, trying to learn what I can. I agree with you that the plastic gearbox and mismatched motors are puzzling
. That's the kind of gearbox I would save in case it might be used for something else, such as a dual mobile with two different speeds to entertain a cat.
The plastic tracks, too, don't appear too useful, except, perhaps, as applied armor on a late Sherman. But so far, I am puzzled by the reference to "Hagenau." Would this refer to 1705 and a withdrawal to winter quarters? To be sure, we North American northerners just got hit by early winter snows and winds.
- jhamm
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Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Hello,
the gearbox is a kind of PDSGB.
One motor is for driving and the other smaller one is for steering.
the gearbox is a kind of PDSGB.
One motor is for driving and the other smaller one is for steering.
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Hi, thank you everybody for your interest and encouragements.
Now starting the Bradley build.
First task is to reinforce the suspension on inner roadwheels because of the planned heavier metal gearbox and tracks. Need at least to replace the 1mm steel torsion bars on the second row of the drive train by 1.5mm torsion bars. I determined that 1.5mm steel push rods below are the perfect material to create torsion bars. These rods can be purchased in lots for a few dollars on Ebay from China. 30 minutes is all it took to create two torsion bars. Remove push rod end points, cut steel bar at the proper length without the screwing section, bent one end for the connection to the roadwheel and create the angled tip for the attachment inside the hull.
I realize that such torsion bar suspension is so cheap and simple, i am planning to reuse this concept on future scratch build models...
The second row of roadwheels now has 1.5mm torsion bars like the first and last row. It makes a critical difference. I determine that there is currently no need to convert the other row behind, for now. Compare size with the 1mm torsion bars behind them.
Tests and minor adjustment in the angles of the torsion bar are performed with the weight of the gearbox at the front, check if everything is flat, level and efficient. It is.
Modification of the Mato Panther gearbox to work on the Bradley. The outer gear of the OKMO gearbox is reused. The Mato shaft is cut at the proper length with a Dremel cutter disk, it takes one minute.
Two grooves are created to lock the gear on the shaft.
Brass strips are hammered in place to fill the slot. After this picture was taken, the connection was filled in epoxy resin to keep everything in place and to avoid empty spaces, then it was sanded flush.
And here we have two Mato Bradley gearbox. Notice that one corner of the gearbox cover needed to be cut so that it does not interface with the outer gear. The lip at the tip of the gearbox also needed grinding so that it does not interfere with the installation and operation of the gearbox.
The stub on the sprockets were reduced to ensure the sprockets are aligned with the roadwheels. The sprocket gearbox cover was modified to fit the ball bearing further inside and flush with the gear. This was done with a Dremel sanding drum in minutes. The AFV-Model metal is very hard, it is not possible to modify it with just a hand file.
A completed sprocket unit. It runs on ball bearings on both end points and turns very smoothly and firmly.
The hole inside the sprockets need to have molding residues cleaned up so that it plugs with the sprocket shaft without forcing it. Then the two Hex bolts installed on the sprocket are screwed to hold it in place.
Continuing on following post
Yeah, i will never use such that gearbox. I took out the external gear to transplant on the Mato gearbox so i am not sure it would even be useful to someone else. Hagenau, yes, that is in reference to the snow that Herman is struggling to understand how it feels when you touch it.Herr Dr. Professor wrote: ↑Sat Nov 19, 2022 5:54 pm Louis, I will be quietly watching this amazing project, trying to learn what I can. I agree with you that the plastic gearbox and mismatched motors are puzzling. That's the kind of gearbox I would save in case it might be used for something else, such as a dual mobile with two different speeds to entertain a cat.
The plastic tracks, too, don't appear too useful, except, perhaps, as applied armor on a late Sherman. But so far, I am puzzled by the reference to "Hagenau." Would this refer to 1705 and a withdrawal to winter quarters? To be sure, we North American northerners just got hit by early winter snows and winds.
I never realized PDSGB worked like that. I somehow prefer the sound and feel of individual metal gearbox. Personal choice.
Now starting the Bradley build.
First task is to reinforce the suspension on inner roadwheels because of the planned heavier metal gearbox and tracks. Need at least to replace the 1mm steel torsion bars on the second row of the drive train by 1.5mm torsion bars. I determined that 1.5mm steel push rods below are the perfect material to create torsion bars. These rods can be purchased in lots for a few dollars on Ebay from China. 30 minutes is all it took to create two torsion bars. Remove push rod end points, cut steel bar at the proper length without the screwing section, bent one end for the connection to the roadwheel and create the angled tip for the attachment inside the hull.
I realize that such torsion bar suspension is so cheap and simple, i am planning to reuse this concept on future scratch build models...
The second row of roadwheels now has 1.5mm torsion bars like the first and last row. It makes a critical difference. I determine that there is currently no need to convert the other row behind, for now. Compare size with the 1mm torsion bars behind them.
Tests and minor adjustment in the angles of the torsion bar are performed with the weight of the gearbox at the front, check if everything is flat, level and efficient. It is.
Modification of the Mato Panther gearbox to work on the Bradley. The outer gear of the OKMO gearbox is reused. The Mato shaft is cut at the proper length with a Dremel cutter disk, it takes one minute.
Two grooves are created to lock the gear on the shaft.
Brass strips are hammered in place to fill the slot. After this picture was taken, the connection was filled in epoxy resin to keep everything in place and to avoid empty spaces, then it was sanded flush.
And here we have two Mato Bradley gearbox. Notice that one corner of the gearbox cover needed to be cut so that it does not interface with the outer gear. The lip at the tip of the gearbox also needed grinding so that it does not interfere with the installation and operation of the gearbox.
The stub on the sprockets were reduced to ensure the sprockets are aligned with the roadwheels. The sprocket gearbox cover was modified to fit the ball bearing further inside and flush with the gear. This was done with a Dremel sanding drum in minutes. The AFV-Model metal is very hard, it is not possible to modify it with just a hand file.
A completed sprocket unit. It runs on ball bearings on both end points and turns very smoothly and firmly.
The hole inside the sprockets need to have molding residues cleaned up so that it plugs with the sprocket shaft without forcing it. Then the two Hex bolts installed on the sprocket are screwed to hold it in place.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Wed Nov 23, 2022 11:54 pm, edited 6 times in total.
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Needed to create a new base for the Mato gearbox. Spacers were created to create support for the base, resting at the bottom of the hull and glued in place, they do not touch the torsion bars.
Then a thick plasticard plate was formed to slide and glued on top of everything, going around the hull support braces and exposing the torsion bars screws for maintenance.
The Mato gearbox are positioned and fixed in place after some testing to determine optimal location. The gearbox are held in place with three 3mm Hex bolts going into the support plates.
Looking good.
The first and second steel braces are re-installed.
View of the AFV-Model metal Bradley sprocket. There is no comparison with the 3D printed one coming with the kit,
Alignment with the roadwheels is critical.
Interior view of the gearbox installation.
Continuing on following post
Then a thick plasticard plate was formed to slide and glued on top of everything, going around the hull support braces and exposing the torsion bars screws for maintenance.
The Mato gearbox are positioned and fixed in place after some testing to determine optimal location. The gearbox are held in place with three 3mm Hex bolts going into the support plates.
Looking good.
The first and second steel braces are re-installed.
View of the AFV-Model metal Bradley sprocket. There is no comparison with the 3D printed one coming with the kit,
Alignment with the roadwheels is critical.
Interior view of the gearbox installation.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Wed Nov 23, 2022 11:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
The placement of the gearbox allow for maintenance and for the removal of the suspension torsion bars without removing the gearbox.
The Mato gearbox are smaller than the plastic gearbox coming with the kit, it gives more room for the electronics at the front.
A planning view of where the main electronic components will be located.
A view inside the hull. The next step is to create the detailed interior in the second half of the vehicle.
The model as it stands today.
Regards, Louis
The Mato gearbox are smaller than the plastic gearbox coming with the kit, it gives more room for the electronics at the front.
A planning view of where the main electronic components will be located.
A view inside the hull. The next step is to create the detailed interior in the second half of the vehicle.
The model as it stands today.
Regards, Louis
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Barry
"Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail."
Leonardo Da Vinci
Leonardo Da Vinci
- Martin2556
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Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Interesting build, looking good & coming together nicely 

- Herr Dr. Professor
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Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Louis, I appreciate the detailed explanation you are providing. I am not at your sophisticated level, but I pick up ideas here and there, sometimes recalling them when needed. Thank you.
- HERMAN BIX
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Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
For me it’s the almost clairvoyant like ability to predict a problem and the solution to it before either has happened!!
Can’t wait for the interior
As for the reference to Hagenau, the view out the gallery window resembles the river crossing scene in BoB .
And as it’s been 35 C here recently, snow is certainly a stage prop or pictures from far away lands !
My kids love the photos as much as I do but for vastly different reasons
Can’t wait for the interior
As for the reference to Hagenau, the view out the gallery window resembles the river crossing scene in BoB .
And as it’s been 35 C here recently, snow is certainly a stage prop or pictures from far away lands !
My kids love the photos as much as I do but for vastly different reasons
HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
Re: M3A3 Bradley US Cavalry Fighting Vehicle - RC 1/16 Build
Thank you everyone,
This post is for the interior core structure, minus all the details.
In addition to the Meng kit which has a very basic interior, i am able to get more clear details on the M3A3 on Prime Portal and on the Sabot Publications wall around book. Of special interest are the bolted-on additional interior armor, core turret cage with its opening sliding door, the racks for the TOW missiles on the right, and the shelves along the corridor to the front of the vehicle. Various very large boxes not native to the Bradley are positioned by the crew on the sides. After comparing references, it is clear that not all Bradley M3A3 are looking the same, they show differences in detailed features and crew configuration. The interior arrangement is also very different between the M3A1, A2 and A3.
The idea is not to be overwhelmed, nor take 2 years to complete the interior. The goal is to have something interesting to look at when the rear ramp is lowered. Need to take one component are a time and do them in a telescopic fashion.
First task is to remove all the braces where required and make all the calculations relative to the interior bolted-on armor, and create the floor base.
Second task was to find the solution for the turret cage. After going into a scavenger hunt inside the house and finding nothing, a trip to the hardware store provided the solution, a white plastic tube section from the pipe department that seem to fit the dimensions required. I bought two in case i screw up, and these for just a few dollars.
Perfect width of 89 mm, exactly what i needed.
Starting modifications. Some plastic roundels were created and added to the top of the cage is order to reach the dimension of the turret rotation ring guard above it, so that the rim of the rotation gear guard fits perfectly on the cage when the upper hull slides in place. Those rings were given the Dremel treatment in order to be flat at the required angle .
The interior walls and bolted-on armor are finished on the lower hull as far forward as they can go. Calculations are very good, with maybe 1mm here and there to adjust for fit. The OKMO model is quite accurate in size. With the add-on plates, the thickness of the walls is 5mm, which reinforces the model a lot and compensate for the removal of the molded braces.
The turret cage length was calculated and cut.
More modifications on the cage, dimensions extrapolated from the Meng kit. The shapes of the cage are not a simple cylinder, it has a lot of components and details.
Continuing on following post
This post is for the interior core structure, minus all the details.
In addition to the Meng kit which has a very basic interior, i am able to get more clear details on the M3A3 on Prime Portal and on the Sabot Publications wall around book. Of special interest are the bolted-on additional interior armor, core turret cage with its opening sliding door, the racks for the TOW missiles on the right, and the shelves along the corridor to the front of the vehicle. Various very large boxes not native to the Bradley are positioned by the crew on the sides. After comparing references, it is clear that not all Bradley M3A3 are looking the same, they show differences in detailed features and crew configuration. The interior arrangement is also very different between the M3A1, A2 and A3.
The idea is not to be overwhelmed, nor take 2 years to complete the interior. The goal is to have something interesting to look at when the rear ramp is lowered. Need to take one component are a time and do them in a telescopic fashion.
First task is to remove all the braces where required and make all the calculations relative to the interior bolted-on armor, and create the floor base.
Second task was to find the solution for the turret cage. After going into a scavenger hunt inside the house and finding nothing, a trip to the hardware store provided the solution, a white plastic tube section from the pipe department that seem to fit the dimensions required. I bought two in case i screw up, and these for just a few dollars.
Perfect width of 89 mm, exactly what i needed.
Starting modifications. Some plastic roundels were created and added to the top of the cage is order to reach the dimension of the turret rotation ring guard above it, so that the rim of the rotation gear guard fits perfectly on the cage when the upper hull slides in place. Those rings were given the Dremel treatment in order to be flat at the required angle .
The interior walls and bolted-on armor are finished on the lower hull as far forward as they can go. Calculations are very good, with maybe 1mm here and there to adjust for fit. The OKMO model is quite accurate in size. With the add-on plates, the thickness of the walls is 5mm, which reinforces the model a lot and compensate for the removal of the molded braces.
The turret cage length was calculated and cut.
More modifications on the cage, dimensions extrapolated from the Meng kit. The shapes of the cage are not a simple cylinder, it has a lot of components and details.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Tue Nov 29, 2022 6:22 pm, edited 4 times in total.