Same challenge here...hence the magnets.ALPHA wrote: as you say they don't open easily....the remedy for that was to file the hinges themselves...that's where mine where hanging up...so taking a little off the side of the hinge and a bit off the top allowed them to swing free....downside is the swing so free when you turn the tank over or to it's side they fly open![]()
ALPHA
DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build
Re: DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build
Re: DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build
Front deck on the upper hull needed the spare track brackets. I made these from brass strips and brass tube. The picture below essentially describes what to do. Once made, I carved in the slots in the hull and then epoxied the brackets in place. The drill bits holding everything together while the glue dried are 1.3-mm bits.
The antenna trough’s brackets were fun to make in brass. But, this is my coup d’etat in this build’s brasswork. Soldering the brass tube to the brackets was the first time I’ve been able to solder two parts like that together. So, this detail included cutting, bending, drilling, soldering and a little sanding brass parts.
The antenna trough’s brackets were fun to make in brass. But, this is my coup d’etat in this build’s brasswork. Soldering the brass tube to the brackets was the first time I’ve been able to solder two parts like that together. So, this detail included cutting, bending, drilling, soldering and a little sanding brass parts.
- HERMAN BIX
- Major-General
- Posts: 11722
- Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 12:15 am
- Location: Gold Coast,Australia
Re: DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build
Ok now youre doing my head in 
Those track brackets are superlative mate
Those track brackets are superlative mate
HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
Re: DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build
Really enjoying this build, was just wondering where you get the mini fasteners from?
Cheers
Rob
Cheers
Rob
You can never have too many tanks...... 
- wibblywobbly
- Major
- Posts: 6396
- Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 9:30 am
- Location: South Wales Valley
- Contact:
Re: DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build
Jeez, just noticed this one, first class work, and love the detail.
RobG
RobG
Tiger 1 Late
Panther G
King Tiger
M36 B1
Panther G
King Tiger
M36 B1
Re: DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build
Thanks guys. Glad you're enjoying it. Just got my order of styrene in. So, in the next few days I'll get some more done, including the new tread plate.
000-120 through 0-80 slotted screws: www.jimorrisco.com
Brass: www.specialshapes.com
Styrene thus far has been Tamiya from a LHS.
All of the details for the what size screw or rivet I used are in the build thread on RCU. I also include source or manufacturer of the add-ons in the event it's helpful to someone.
Rivets and hex-head bolts: www.scalehardware.comKTRob wrote:was just wondering where you get the mini fasteners from?
000-120 through 0-80 slotted screws: www.jimorrisco.com
Brass: www.specialshapes.com
Styrene thus far has been Tamiya from a LHS.
All of the details for the what size screw or rivet I used are in the build thread on RCU. I also include source or manufacturer of the add-ons in the event it's helpful to someone.
Re: DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build
Thanks for that, I have decided to have a crack at my Panzer IV so this thread is really useful, thanks for sharingphilipat wrote:Thanks guys. Glad you're enjoying it. Just got my order of styrene in. So, in the next few days I'll get some more done, including the new tread plate.
Rivets and hex-head bolts: http://www.scalehardware.comKTRob wrote:was just wondering where you get the mini fasteners from?
000-120 through 0-80 slotted screws: http://www.jimorrisco.com
Brass: http://www.specialshapes.com
Styrene thus far has been Tamiya from a LHS.
All of the details for the what size screw or rivet I used are in the build thread on RCU. I also include source or manufacturer of the add-ons in the event it's helpful to someone.
You can never have too many tanks...... 
Re: DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build
No problem...glad it helps. I like getting material sources from other builders.
Re: DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build
My styrene materials arrived. So, now I can move forward on some of the other details. This shipment included ½" styrene tube, hex rods (1.5-2.5 mm), and diamond tread plate.
Tread plate: I installed the tread plate, O-scale (1:48) diamond plate from JTT Scenery Products (http://www.sceneryproducts.com). The trick here was that in the photos I’ve seen the tread lines run parallel and perpendicular to the long axis of the tank, essentially in a square pattern rather than a diamond pattern. The styrene sheet is set up in a diamond pattern. So, all of the sections had to be cut at an angle in the sheet. The cutting templates that I have were a huge help in making the 90o angles, since I don’t have a hobby square. Tip: remember to measure twice so that you only cut once and don’t assume that each side is the same, just mirrored, as the other.
Brake air vent cover: I used the ½" styrene tube for this beefed up with some .5-mm and .3-mm styrene sheets. The goal was to make it about 1.5-mm thick. Do this in layers sandwiching them together. In retrospect, it would have been easier to use 3x .3-mm sheet layers because they are more pliable. Use a plastic weld to blend them into a continuous styrene tube. The overall height of the brake cover appears to be about 48% (in other words, just shy of half) of half the height of the sidewall (from fender to top). The bottom edge appears to sit mid-way up from the fenders to the top of the hull.
Jack block platform: installed that.
Headlights: SMDs installed in the Bosch headlights. The headlights are from http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/. These are the Tiger I Early set in white metal. The same set I got for the PzIII a few years ago was a nickel brass. I don’t know if they changed the metal they use or if I inadvertently ordered the white metal version, but that’s what I got. I like the nickel ones a little better, but these will work. The headlights are positioned in this photo. In the next couple of days, I’ll add the power cable (brass wire) and epoxy them into place.
Rear plate: I used 2-mm hex rod to make bolt heads that were approximately 1-mm thick. I glued these at the holes that were previously made as markers. I also installed 2-mm conical rivets from http://www.scalehardware.com. The tow cable brackets are from the PzIV J kit from http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/. These are a nickel brass and very nicely done. It comes with an excellent two cable that I’ll finish up later.
Tread plate, brake cover and jack block platform were all secured using plastic weld. The large surface area of the tread plate require fast work with a lot of coverage. But, it seems pretty solid. The holes that HL made in the fenders for tools and whatnot are a great marker for holes in the tread plate later.
Tread plate: I installed the tread plate, O-scale (1:48) diamond plate from JTT Scenery Products (http://www.sceneryproducts.com). The trick here was that in the photos I’ve seen the tread lines run parallel and perpendicular to the long axis of the tank, essentially in a square pattern rather than a diamond pattern. The styrene sheet is set up in a diamond pattern. So, all of the sections had to be cut at an angle in the sheet. The cutting templates that I have were a huge help in making the 90o angles, since I don’t have a hobby square. Tip: remember to measure twice so that you only cut once and don’t assume that each side is the same, just mirrored, as the other.
Brake air vent cover: I used the ½" styrene tube for this beefed up with some .5-mm and .3-mm styrene sheets. The goal was to make it about 1.5-mm thick. Do this in layers sandwiching them together. In retrospect, it would have been easier to use 3x .3-mm sheet layers because they are more pliable. Use a plastic weld to blend them into a continuous styrene tube. The overall height of the brake cover appears to be about 48% (in other words, just shy of half) of half the height of the sidewall (from fender to top). The bottom edge appears to sit mid-way up from the fenders to the top of the hull.
Jack block platform: installed that.
Headlights: SMDs installed in the Bosch headlights. The headlights are from http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/. These are the Tiger I Early set in white metal. The same set I got for the PzIII a few years ago was a nickel brass. I don’t know if they changed the metal they use or if I inadvertently ordered the white metal version, but that’s what I got. I like the nickel ones a little better, but these will work. The headlights are positioned in this photo. In the next couple of days, I’ll add the power cable (brass wire) and epoxy them into place.
Rear plate: I used 2-mm hex rod to make bolt heads that were approximately 1-mm thick. I glued these at the holes that were previously made as markers. I also installed 2-mm conical rivets from http://www.scalehardware.com. The tow cable brackets are from the PzIV J kit from http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/. These are a nickel brass and very nicely done. It comes with an excellent two cable that I’ll finish up later.
Tread plate, brake cover and jack block platform were all secured using plastic weld. The large surface area of the tread plate require fast work with a lot of coverage. But, it seems pretty solid. The holes that HL made in the fenders for tools and whatnot are a great marker for holes in the tread plate later.
- SovereignZuul
- Corporal
- Posts: 456
- Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2012 11:50 pm
- Location: Connecticut, USA
Re: DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build
About the headlights, I recently got the same ones. They were much softer than the nickle parts, white metal indeed. I actually broke one of mine trying to tweak it (but since flawlessly repaired).
I did the same treatment, drilled a hole for the wires and put in leds.
In all, looking great, love the tiny parts. The diamond plate is exceptional!
I did the same treatment, drilled a hole for the wires and put in leds.
In all, looking great, love the tiny parts. The diamond plate is exceptional!
My Build Thread: http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/v ... 22&t=10204