Cromwell Mk 4 1:16 scratch build Ludwig kit

[43rdRecceReg]

Ah mr 43rr you didn't read my build thread thoroughly enough! I kid But I have been through this issue. I can't give you the geometric reason but both rings need to be in the correct positions to align properly. What you need to do is unbolt one side and progressively move it along one bolt position until you find the one where it aligns properly. Mine aren't 100% spot on but within a hairs width and all works ok!

Drat! Yep, it looks as if I somehow overlooked a key bit of your thread...although I do recall you saying you to had to shift a lot of wee bolts. I'm suitably self-admonished. But, the exercise you describe sounds like trying to crack a safe As it is, I have to take the gearboxes out to remove the sprockets. Ah, well...if something's worth doing, it worth doing well. I'll just get my 'swag' bag, mask, stethoscope, and stripey t-shirt then

[tomhugill]

Oh yes! I think for the task I should have invested in some micro sized sockets (I used needle nosed pliers). One of those jobs where you do it in front of the tv to break up the monotony!

BUT, it will be worth it when the tanks running nicely! Why do you need to take the gearboxes out? On mine there's a retaining bolt like a standard sprocket and a big grub screw which acts on the flat of the output shaft, are yours different?

[43rdRecceReg]

Oh yes! I think for the task I should have invested in some micro sized sockets (I used needle nosed pliers). One of those jobs where you do it in front of the tv to break up the monotony!

BUT, it will be worth it when the tanks running nicely! Why do you need to take the gearboxes out? On mine there's a retaining bolt like a standard sprocket and a big grub screw which acts on the flat of the output shaft, are yours different?

Broadly the same, Tom, but removing the sprockets threatens to remove the mudguards too. I need a few mms. clearance, and achieve that with input shaft interruptus, so to speak.
Now, I think I have the asymmetry problem licked. Luckily for me, I had invested in a 2mm socket drive beforehand, and that made fitting the bolts much less of a chore...especially when I had to unbolt them as well later on

[43rdRecceReg]

Part of the scratch-building process is learning what works and, sometimes painfully, what doesn't. At other times, you simply have to make it up as you go along. Now, I didn't realise when I sat lazily screwing my state-of-the-art sprocket components together, that there was likely to be any alignment problem. After all, the sender's address was in Germany . But what it all boils down to (and a word of warning to those
contemplating bespoke sprockets..), is that all the parts aren't exactly uniform. One side of a sprocket will only line up properly (gear teeth in line) with that on the opposing side- in only one position, or so. Thus I had to remove one side on each sprocket, and move it a tooth at a time until the lands and troughs matched and- of course- there were also holes for the bolts exposed too.
This is what alignment looks like, after what felt like a spot of safe-cracking

Long in the tooth..the ultimate dentures

Then double checked along the centre line of the stub axle:

Turning a mess into a mesh

Having decided to override OCD urges, by not checking every tooth individually all over again...it was time to get the track length about right. By the way, these Ludwig sprockets have 18 teeth, and use Pz IV tracks. Pz IV sprockets from HL and Taigen have 19 teeth for the same tracks..

Guess the needed track length competition

Again, another unique feature of the scratch (or semi-scratch in this case) is the lack of available proportions, dimensions, and numbers. When you buy a track set for a Pz 3, or IV, you can be pretty certain that it will fit
right out of the box, or require just one link adding or removing. 91 to 95 links cover the whole Panzer range, broadly speaking. The real Cromwell, according to HMSO, and also Tamiya, had 125 links per side. But I am using Pz IV/111 tracks as they are the nearest approximation to the way the Cromwell was shod. In the end, I needed around 115 links per side. That may change later.

Workable fit so far.

Henntec idler positions look about ok too. Needed a couple of extra washers/spacers on one side. When it comes to 'field' trials ( I live next to one, and my garden was one..), things may change. Probably will.

Idlers look in line.

Now for an update overview. Note that the upper hull is just sitting loosely on the lower. Eventually, it will be bonded tightly (no visible gaps) with screws concealed in the luggage bins:

Gate guardian of the Loch

Now, for a little size comparison with the 'medium tanks':

Torro Pro Metal edn and Cromwell

Cromwell and Torro Pro T34/85

Cromwell and Taigen Pz IV with Dalek and Dennis the Menace..

In scratch building, maybe more than regular tank enhancement, you're always looking for elusive specifications..and measurements you're not able to take. For example, a 12mm paperclip used as a grab handle would (x 16) produce one with an improbable width of nearly 8ins, when they appear to be about 4 or 5in on the full scale tank.
Still, I have learned that the Cromwell was longer than the Pz Iv..In fact, it was slightly longer than the Tiger 1 as well!. It had a very low profile; much lower than the gunner's dream, the Sherman..and thus presented a much smaller sight picture than any other medium tank. Later on, it's frontal armour was also as thick as the Tiger's. So, although handicapped by it's 6-pounder peashooter, and later it's bored out 75mm Sherman style peashooter, it was the fastest and most manoeuvrable tank in the N.W Europe theatre of operations. Once it escaped from the bocage, that cramped its style, it was very successful. More than that, the Comet was its offspring, and the Centurion, its Grandson! Not a bad family history, that one
Now it's dinner time..

[c.rainford73]

This tank is a work of art superb in every way possible

Carl

[PainlessWolf]

43rdR&R,
You've got yourself a Winner there! Electronics up next? Following along.
regards,
Painless

[43rdRecceReg]

43rdR&R,
You've got yourself a Winner there! Electronics up next? Following along.
regards,
Painless

Thanks, Carl and Painless.Yes, the shell of the Cromwell is 95% complete. I need to fit the lamp guards (and make them first); then hub caps, two aerial bases on the Turret, extra hinges on the engine deck, and finally some
grab handles here and there. There are also a couple of boxes fitted to the rear panel I might make. (See pic below) I could use one to conceal an external battery charging point. After that, a proper coat of Olive drab is needed. British Olive Drab was much darker than the US version, and it will make the tank look quite different. Finding the appropriate decals won't be easy, either. There were some Cromwells attached to my late Father's Recon (Recce)
unit. That was the recce unit of the 43rd Wessex division, and part of XXXth Corps, along with the 51st Highland Division. If I can, I'd like to find flashes and decals for these units.
Then...the electrical innards...the Tank's nervous system. I think I'm probably going to order the Clark Tk 24 or 60 from Max. I have most of the other bits already.
Here's the rear end of a working Cromwell with the boxes and some sort of suspension spare, or maybe it's a jack. I need to check that part out. Anyway, I'd like to copy these details.

Ooops., looks like someone's had problems reversing this.

Some naughty boy has bent the rear mudguard! Wonder what the new insurance premium will be on that?

[Ad Lav]

Looks smashing!

[wibblywobbly]

Excellent work, your toil paid off, it looks great!

My take on the bar at the bottom of the rear, is that it is some kind of sprung towbar mount. It looks like a leaf spring in the pics that I could find, clamped to the hull. There seems to be a tow hook on it. The upper central box is a telephone so that troops can talk to the crew without the crew having to open any hatches. The two small boxes lower down and each side are the rear convoy lights.

[43rdRecceReg]

Excellent work, your toil paid off, it looks great!

My take on the bar at the bottom of the rear, is that it is some kind of sprung towbar mount. It looks like a leaf spring in the pics that I could find, clamped to the hull. There seems to be a tow hook on it. The upper central box is a telephone so that troops can talk to the crew without the crew having to open any hatches. The two small boxes lower down and each side are the rear convoy lights.

Thanks for the box details, Rob. I'm not surprised that it was a telephone link to the Commander. Yes, that bar where a tow hook lives does look like a leaf spring of some sort; but then the Cromwell doesn't use leaf springs. That's why I though it might be some sort of jack, but a sprung towbar makes sense.
The David Fletcher book I've just bought ('Cromwell Cruiser Tank, 1942-50') is good on the history of the tank, its evolution, and combat record; but sometimes sketchy about its hardware. Only one illustration names any of the parts, and then only from a frontal projection. Other photos of the rear end show a conventional tow hook where the 'spring' is, with convoy lights either side, and not above, as on the model in the pic.