Used Challenger Strip and Rebuild.

[Pavel]

These are not carbon tubes, but regular 2.5 mm screws, so that they fit into the holes in the bottom without any obstacles, I made a conical seat and they fit in there easily.
When gluing the magnet, the formwork burst, sorry for the crookedness....

[zooma]

I have fitted the FS-1A6B receiver and the TK24 board into the hull.

The receiver and the LiPo battery have been attached onto either side of the hull with Velcro.

Motors are plugged into the TK24 as well as the power supply (with an on/off switch) and the volume control,

I re-wired the XT60 plug with a fresh pair of 16 SWG wires and soldered them onto the on/off switch so everything I need to drive the tank is now in place and connected.

At this stage the hull top and turret are not connected as I don't know how to access the various functions from the left hand stick yet.

[zooma]

The battery was connected and the TX was switched-on followed by switching on the tank.

The FS-16 radio and the TK24 board are both unknown to me, and I have no instructions for either so I am fumbling about to see what does what.

The RX switched-on OK, but the right hand stick did nothing.

When twiddling with the left hand stick the motor sound, main gun and two different machine gun sounds were discovered ...and the drive to the motors was gained (but I dont know how!).

Moving the RH stick showed that the motors were turning in the wrong direction, so I pulled up the TX menu and selected "set-up" followed by "servo reverse" and after some experimentation I found that channel 2 was the one that operated the motors so I reversed it and now both motors run in the correct direction so I will be able to drive the tank when the tracks are fitted

Before I connect the hull and turret I need to find out how to use the left hand stick to switch on/off the various functions, and how to turn the turret and raise and lower the gun without unintentionally switching everything else on and off !

I will see if I can find any information about how the TK24 board works online - but anyone reading this that can advise how they operate their TK24 left hand stick would be welcomed to share this information as practical experience is always better than an online tutorial..........although that is what I am hoping to find now!

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Zooma, my guess is that you have a Clark TK24 MFU board. I have one in my Mato M10. I am not near the M10 until tomorrow, but here's what I can offer. The URL for the <.pdf> manual for my M10 with its Clark TK24 and Mato Controller:

https://matotanks.com/wp-content/upload ... Manual.pdf

Of course, this may differ if you have a different transmitter.

[tankme]

My T72 does have a "full metal chassis", with metal tracks, metal sprockets, metal idler, and metal road wheels. Overkill? Probably, but I like it. Heng Long made a metal tub chassis for the T90/T72 and that's what mine has. Fits both and has a torsion bar suspension. My origianal non-ERA T72 has been one of my most reliable tanks. I don't think it's ever lost a track at a battle.

[Pavel]

I have two Leopards 5 and 6 with a long and short gun, the short-barreled one has everything plastic, the long-barreled one has the entire chassis made of metal.
The realism when moving in the metal version is many times greater than the plastic version.
It jumps and swings on obstacles, because it does not have significant weight, that's why tanks are made heavier.
It's stupid to put ballast inside - it's a load on the levers and the entire chassis, that's why they make metal...
A Tiger completely in metal looks great in motion, I've seen it!
And I've seen the empty wallet of its owner...

[zooma]

Thanks Prof!

I will be taking a good look at your manual today in the hope that I can make some sense about how to find the various functions (more than once!) on the left hand stick unit.

Is your left hand stick unit self-centering?

My left hand stick has no self-centre action - maybe it needs to be to work with the TK24?

Thanks for your help!

Bob.

[Pavel]

No, you need to buy this.
To keep the stick in the center...

https://aliexpress.ru/item/100500393104 ... _rcmd=core

[zooma]

My FlySky FS-16 radio has a self centring right hand stick unit and a non centering left hand stick unit.

I was wondering what advantage (if any) that I would have if I get the TK24 -CH converted to S.bus?

Would it be easier to find and use all the functions that are currently clustered together on the left hand stick unit if I had the sbus connection?

........would I be able to re-allocate some of these functions to the switches or adjusting knob dials on the top of my FS-16?

[Pavel]

Not quite correctly said...
The stick on both joysticks in our case should be in the center.
For ships, tractors, self-centering joysticks on all channels are also required.
In many devices, the removed part is put in a bag, for such cases.