Great if everything works, have you assigned switches to certain functions? shooting, machine gun, etc....Used Challenger Strip and Rebuild.
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Jofaur86
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Re: Used Challenger Strip and Rebuild.
Great if everything works, have you assigned switches to certain functions? shooting, machine gun, etc....-
Herr Dr. Professor
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Re: Used Challenger Strip and Rebuild.
"Press and HOLD the CANCEL button to confirm changes!" Yes Zooma, I have found the steps to modify and save settings on the FS-i6X Byzantine. "CANCEL" is sometimes the "save" function. 
Sending TK24-CH to Clark for S.bus Conversion.
My TK24 does not have an S.bus connection - so I cannot allocate any function to a separate switch.
I will be sending my TK24 -CH away to Clark for conversion to S.bus as this will enable me to allocate some of the functions to switches - and this in turn will reduce the left hand stick OVERLOAD that I currently "enjoy".
Never too old to learn........
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Jofaur86
- Warrant Officer 1st Class
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- Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2018 11:28 pm
- Location: Centre France
Re: Used Challenger Strip and Rebuild.
Super Zoom, please keep me informed of the rest 
TK24 CH posted to Clark for S.bus Conversion.
I posted a TK24 CH to Clark Model yesterday morning to be converted to S.bus after an email to confirm that they would be able to convert it for me.
A price quote was requested ( I never got a reply to that question), but others that have had boards converted to S.bus previously have advised that Clark is good to work with and has reasonable charges.
When my first board is returned I will send this other TK24 CH board to be converted as well (probably send it with some that Tom wants to send so we can share the postage ).
I will continue to work out how to use the TK24 CH that I already have in my used Challenger 2 until my converted board is returned to me.
I have made the left hand stick of my FS-i6 self centring in the hope that it will make the function selection a little easier when the tank is being driven - so more fun to be had with it this weekend.
A price quote was requested ( I never got a reply to that question), but others that have had boards converted to S.bus previously have advised that Clark is good to work with and has reasonable charges.
When my first board is returned I will send this other TK24 CH board to be converted as well (probably send it with some that Tom wants to send so we can share the postage ).
I will continue to work out how to use the TK24 CH that I already have in my used Challenger 2 until my converted board is returned to me.
I have made the left hand stick of my FS-i6 self centring in the hope that it will make the function selection a little easier when the tank is being driven - so more fun to be had with it this weekend.
Never too old to learn........
FS-i6 With Self-Centering Left Hand Stick Unit.
The left hand transmitter stick unit has been converted to self centering in the hope that it will help me to find the various switching positions a little easier when driving the tank.
The corners of the left hand stick travel for switching are very easy to locate every time .
Top left is MG1 (with red flash), and top right is lights on/off.
Bottom left is Main Canon (no gun flash yet) and the bottom right is MG 2.
Since the left hand stick has been converted to self-centering (SC), the Turret Travel left and right also works every time, so this confirms that the location of the centre position is now automatically found, so already the SC has proven to be a better idea.
I also like the way that the FS-i6 (and FS-iX) show the tanks battery health a few seconds after the tank is switched on - this is also very handy as I notice that the switching becomes less reliable ....and is also likely to switch functions off and power down when the tanks battery gets slightly low.
TK24 PROBLEMS TO RESOLVE.
(1). When the tank is first switched on the orange RANGE SAFETY LIGHT comes on and swirls nicely, but as I start to move the left hand stick to find or operate any the function it switches itself off, and I cannot find out how to switch it on again.
Maybe I have not found the correct socket on the TK24 board to plug it in to?
(2). Now that the left hand stick is SC , I cannot flick it to the MIDDLE LEFT to ENGAGE DRIVE - all I do is turn the turret to the left.
Drive does engage itself as I am moving the stick around - usually suddenly and without warning! This is quite worrying when I am within the small confines of my office space as those RED Motors are fast and the tank takes off like a scorched cat!
(3). Flicking the left hand stick to the MIDDLE RIGHT right to SWITCH ON ENGINE SOUND is also a problem as all I do is turn the turret in that direction.
The engine sound does start up when I am doing other things - but I have yet to work out how and why.
PROBLEM (1). is not a big deal, but it would be nice to find the correct position to plug it into the board so I can work out how to switch it on/off......or even to have it running all the time (I can always unplug it when it is not wanted).
PROBLEM (2) is by far the MOST SERIOUS.
If I cannot engage drive, then I cannot drive the tank.
If I engage drive suddenly (and not knowing how or when I did it) the tank can take-off very quickly unannounced! This may not be as worrying when in an open space, but when in a confined space (or when in company with other models) this could cause some damage.
I want to be able to engage drive reliably (and safely) every time.
PROBLEM (3). Again not such a big deal....BUT.....having such a good quality Challenger 2 engine sound on the TK24 board, I would like to be able to listen to it on demand - and not when I get lucky.
Once I can resolve PROBLEMS 1.2 and 3 I should have a really nice running Challenger 2 (or be able to locate and find anything else that needs fixing).
The corners of the left hand stick travel for switching are very easy to locate every time .
Top left is MG1 (with red flash), and top right is lights on/off.
Bottom left is Main Canon (no gun flash yet) and the bottom right is MG 2.
Since the left hand stick has been converted to self-centering (SC), the Turret Travel left and right also works every time, so this confirms that the location of the centre position is now automatically found, so already the SC has proven to be a better idea.
I also like the way that the FS-i6 (and FS-iX) show the tanks battery health a few seconds after the tank is switched on - this is also very handy as I notice that the switching becomes less reliable ....and is also likely to switch functions off and power down when the tanks battery gets slightly low.
TK24 PROBLEMS TO RESOLVE.
(1). When the tank is first switched on the orange RANGE SAFETY LIGHT comes on and swirls nicely, but as I start to move the left hand stick to find or operate any the function it switches itself off, and I cannot find out how to switch it on again.
Maybe I have not found the correct socket on the TK24 board to plug it in to?
(2). Now that the left hand stick is SC , I cannot flick it to the MIDDLE LEFT to ENGAGE DRIVE - all I do is turn the turret to the left.
Drive does engage itself as I am moving the stick around - usually suddenly and without warning! This is quite worrying when I am within the small confines of my office space as those RED Motors are fast and the tank takes off like a scorched cat!
(3). Flicking the left hand stick to the MIDDLE RIGHT right to SWITCH ON ENGINE SOUND is also a problem as all I do is turn the turret in that direction.
The engine sound does start up when I am doing other things - but I have yet to work out how and why.
PROBLEM (1). is not a big deal, but it would be nice to find the correct position to plug it into the board so I can work out how to switch it on/off......or even to have it running all the time (I can always unplug it when it is not wanted).
PROBLEM (2) is by far the MOST SERIOUS.
If I cannot engage drive, then I cannot drive the tank.
If I engage drive suddenly (and not knowing how or when I did it) the tank can take-off very quickly unannounced! This may not be as worrying when in an open space, but when in a confined space (or when in company with other models) this could cause some damage.
I want to be able to engage drive reliably (and safely) every time.
PROBLEM (3). Again not such a big deal....BUT.....having such a good quality Challenger 2 engine sound on the TK24 board, I would like to be able to listen to it on demand - and not when I get lucky.
Once I can resolve PROBLEMS 1.2 and 3 I should have a really nice running Challenger 2 (or be able to locate and find anything else that needs fixing).
Never too old to learn........
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Jofaur86
- Warrant Officer 1st Class
- Posts: 2172
- Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2018 11:28 pm
- Location: Centre France
Re: Used Challenger Strip and Rebuild.
Hello Zoom, great then, I'm waiting to see what happens, I'm currently diving back into reading different TK 4-channel commissioning articles, also discovered numerous articles on this "post eectronic" forum and Clark electronics? it seems that depending on the type of TX mode (1.2.3 or 4) the operating reactions are not identical? There are also videos... On the Clark site post RC Tank controller supplements, left column (in black) entitled TK 22 Tutorial. Lots of information.TK24 functions for RIGHT Hand Stick DRIVE.
.........and everything I have found to date assumes that the LEFT hand stick unit is used for the THROTTLE, and when you are using the RIGHT hand stick unit for all the DRIVE functions (like I am), some of the "TRIGGERING" movements cannot apply!Jofaur86 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 08, 2025 11:12 pm
The previous owner could not remember what sort of TK board he fitted (fair enough - it was a long time ago - 7 years plus) but he thought that it could have been a TK60.
I bought a used FS-i6 radio and TK24 board from the ads on here (to use on my other Challenger 2) and that board was known to be a TK24 CH........and this board looks exactly the same so I think it is the same board.
Last edited by zooma on Sun Feb 09, 2025 9:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
Never too old to learn........
Used Challenger Strip and Rebuild. Excellent SOUND.
The good news about this TK24 board is that the Challenger 2 SOUND is superb on this used model. The previous owner told me that the speaker is from RC TANK LEGION.
This speaker is fixed in a black square shaped hard plastic box. The excellent sound quality may be influenced as much by this box as the brand of speaker, but when I get all the TK24 board functions understood and working "when they should", I will take a look to try to find out more about this particular speaker/supplier.
This speaker is fixed in a black square shaped hard plastic box. The excellent sound quality may be influenced as much by this box as the brand of speaker, but when I get all the TK24 board functions understood and working "when they should", I will take a look to try to find out more about this particular speaker/supplier.
Never too old to learn........
TK24 CH Under As Much Control As Possible.
I think I have got as far as I can with controlling the TK24 CH board operation................without getting the board modified to S.bus connection.
The swirling orange lamp is now connected to a spare channel in the receiver - so that is now working.
The main gun flash light is now working too.
Switching the DRIVE and the ENGINE sound on/off is still a bit less than perfect. By nudging the LEFT hand stick when it is positioned slightly above the level held by the return spring it is possible to engage the DRIVE with a quick stab to the left and when in a similar stick position the ENGINE sound can be turned on with a quick stab to the right.
I will experiment to see if I can gain a more accurate position to control the DRIVE and ENGINE sound switching by using the electronic trim control on the transmitter, rather than the inaccurate method of hoping to find the right position by the trial and error method that I am using now.
The weakest part of the TK24 Clark board when using the right hand control stick for the main drive functions of forward/reverse and left/right, is that every other function has to be activated from the left hand control stick. This creates a massive overload on that stick that can only be reduced by upgrading to an S.bus connection in the future.
Upgrading to S.bus will allow some of the functions to be allocated to a switching method that is not included with all the other functions on that same stick unit, and this is certain to make the TK24 less ponderous and more reliable to gain access to the desired controls when they are wanted.
The swirling orange lamp is now connected to a spare channel in the receiver - so that is now working.
The main gun flash light is now working too.
Switching the DRIVE and the ENGINE sound on/off is still a bit less than perfect. By nudging the LEFT hand stick when it is positioned slightly above the level held by the return spring it is possible to engage the DRIVE with a quick stab to the left and when in a similar stick position the ENGINE sound can be turned on with a quick stab to the right.
I will experiment to see if I can gain a more accurate position to control the DRIVE and ENGINE sound switching by using the electronic trim control on the transmitter, rather than the inaccurate method of hoping to find the right position by the trial and error method that I am using now.
The weakest part of the TK24 Clark board when using the right hand control stick for the main drive functions of forward/reverse and left/right, is that every other function has to be activated from the left hand control stick. This creates a massive overload on that stick that can only be reduced by upgrading to an S.bus connection in the future.
Upgrading to S.bus will allow some of the functions to be allocated to a switching method that is not included with all the other functions on that same stick unit, and this is certain to make the TK24 less ponderous and more reliable to gain access to the desired controls when they are wanted.
Never too old to learn........
