Dasmikro (TBS Benedini clone)

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Postby Yellowshaker » Sat Sep 15, 2018 4:28 am

Sp basically you can buy any one of them and program it how you want? I am a bit nervous buying one having never used one before. Not sure I can figure it out. From the post it looks very difficult to set up.

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Postby wibblywobbly » Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:35 am

It's actually very simple. It's a Benedini clone, what makes it complicated is they way that Benedini describes how to program one.

As far as the DasMikro ones are concerned, they come with truck sounds on. Loading on new sounds just means running the Benedini software, hooking up the USB, and hitting the load sounds button, it takes a few minutes to complete.

For custom sounds, tank sounds etc, you need to download Audacity and create a few sound clips, then load these the same way.

There are a lot of other things that the boards can do, control lights and have other sounds, but to make use of these features requires a multi channel tx, and switches/knobs that can be used to control the board. I use my Das Mikro's in trucks so all I do is select a truck sound from the library and load that on.

I used to create sounds for Elmod boards before the Fusion boards arrived on the scene, so creating a sound clips in Audacity and loading them on became second nature, these boards work the same way, they just have a lot less memory to play with.
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Postby Yellowshaker » Tue Oct 02, 2018 4:28 am

SO the unit arrived today but still waiting on a program adapter for it. I also read the manual and cannot figure out how a smoke unit can be controlled with this thing...and uys say ElMod is hard to use? ANyway, I would like to become familiar with the benedini system, but the manual is basically about sounds only...Anyone care to lend a hand?

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Postby LukeZ » Tue Oct 02, 2018 4:50 am

If what you purchased is the Dasmikro being discussed in this thread, it is a clone of the TBS Micro. The Micro has no smoke control functionality.
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Tue Oct 02, 2018 8:16 am

LukeZ wrote:If what you purchased is the Dasmikro being discussed in this thread, it is a clone of the TBS Micro. The Micro has no smoke control functionality.


Hy luke, I am probably wrong, but I think with the dasmikro is possible to control smoke too. At least the software gives you that option... I have not tested it, but definitely you can config things there.
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Postby Yellowshaker » Tue Oct 02, 2018 2:39 pm

I believe it does have the function...just that instructions are terrible and there is not a whole lot of information I can find online...

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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Tue Oct 02, 2018 3:03 pm

Yellowshaker wrote:I believe it does have the function...just that instructions are terrible and there is not a whole lot of information I can find online...


Cant agree more with you. Bad instructions and a horrible lack of info out there, even when it is very popular after those cheap WPL trucks. I guess 99,9% of the users sticks with the stock sounds and no use of lights or any other function.

Elmod is very easy to use, but this little board is very complicated and unlocking all his potential is for advanced users with good radios.
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Postby LukeZ » Tue Oct 02, 2018 7:03 pm

The product has a lot of features and capabilities and therefore inevitably has a learning curve. It certainly helps to use the official product purchased from Thomas Benedini, with the latest firmware, with the documentation he provides, and all the sound files that he makes available to you. When you do so Mr. Benedini is also very responsive to individual requests for help, as everybody will attest who owns his actual products.

I believe it is unfair to buy a cheap Chinese unauthorized rip-off copy that Benedini doesn't support and that the Chinese for sure don't support, and which takes money away from the legitimate business, and then complain about the legitimate business. If you want to go the cheap route, you must be prepared to figure things out yourself. That is the trade-off you make for saving money.
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Postby Yellowshaker » Wed Oct 03, 2018 1:03 am

Like, I bought this unit to test in one of the WPL trucks. I have looked into purchasing a unit from Benedini in the past, and the lack of information is what halted that. I am not complaining about the Chinese knockoff. I am saying that for a unit such as the TBS mini and Micro, there is very little information and the manual is not very good at all. So drop the attitude. Perhaps you have the money and time to spend learning how to use a rather expensive product through trial and error, but I do not, nor do I feel I should have to. If something costs that much, it should have a user manual that people can understand and it certainly should explain all of the functions it is capable of and how to use them. If I screw something up and burn up a 25 dollar board, oh well. If I screw up and burn up the Benedini board, I will not be happy, especially if it is because the information is lacking.

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Postby Yellowshaker » Tue Oct 16, 2018 4:24 am

Rad. I finally got the programming unit from ebay that you show in the first part of this thread. I hooked it up as you stated in the photo. Problem is when I hit connect on the screen in the software it says module did not answer. Any ideas? I checked my connections over and over.

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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Tue Oct 16, 2018 7:22 am

Yellowshaker wrote:Rad. I finally got the programming unit from ebay that you show in the first part of this thread. I hooked it up as you stated in the photo. Problem is when I hit connect on the screen in the software it says module did not answer. Any ideas? I checked my connections over and over.


Do you have the board powered? It should be connected to the model, and switched on.

EDIT: Also make sure you follow the pin names (not the pin order in the diagram, because it can vary with every programmer)

And lastly, did you try selecting another comm port in the benedini software?
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Postby wibblywobbly » Tue Oct 16, 2018 9:34 am

The USB that Bangood sell has an cloned chip on it. The guys that produce the real one changed their drivers so that it would only recognise a genuine chip. The latest drivers will therefore only recognise a genuine FTID chip, hence you get the message. I had the same problem.

Ironically the real USB board is a fraction of the cost of the cloned one. There are two solutions.

1. Download an old driver and try that.
2. Buy a genuine one and use the latest driver.

I was pulling my hair out trying to get my USB to work, I bought the genuine one, soldered the wires/plug onto it from the Bangood board, and it has worked flawlessly ever since.
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Tue Oct 16, 2018 9:54 am

wibblywobbly wrote:The USB that Bangood sell has an cloned chip on it. The guys that produce the real one changed their drivers so that it would only recognise a genuine chip. The latest drivers will therefore only recognise a genuine FTID chip, hence you get the message. I had the same problem.

Ironically the real USB board is a fraction of the cost of the cloned one. There are two solutions.

1. Download an old driver and try that.
2. Buy a genuine one and use the latest driver.

I was pulling my hair out trying to get my USB to work, I bought the genuine one, soldered the wires/plug onto it from the Bangood board, and it has worked flawlessly ever since.


There is no need to use the genuine (and expensive!) programmer. I have several sound boards and all of them work with the programmer I did myself, about one euro free shipping..

But what does not work is the programmer that banngood sells, all of them come wrongly wired and some of them even with faulty chips!.
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Postby wibblywobbly » Tue Oct 16, 2018 12:47 pm

Expensive? lol. I don't know where you buy yours, but I got one of these, soldered 3 wires on, loaded the driver and it worked perfectly. It's a lot cheaper than the Bangood one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Basic-Breakout-Board-For-FTDI-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-IC-For-Arduino-UK-/152356638798?hash=item237929d04e
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Tue Oct 16, 2018 2:13 pm

wibblywobbly wrote:Expensive? lol. I don't know where you buy yours, but I got one of these, soldered 3 wires on, loaded the driver and it worked perfectly. It's a lot cheaper than the Bangood one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Basic-Breakout-Board-For-FTDI-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-IC-For-Arduino-UK-/152356638798?hash=item237929d04e


Sorry, I thought you meant the original benedini programmer (which is about 20 bucks + shipping) not that breakout board, lol
The banggood programer is a rip off, and it even does not work, but the one in the link you provided is perfect.
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Postby Yellowshaker » Tue Oct 16, 2018 4:04 pm

OK, you guys are great. I got it to work. Com port wasn't selected. In any case, my next problem didn't take long. I am able to load sound sets. However, the proportional sounds are not working. The engine starts and idles but that is all. I am not sure if it is something in parameters I am missing or what. I have zero experience with this system and as stated, the instructions are rather limited. Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but I am trying to learn.

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Postby c6doki » Sun Nov 04, 2018 1:51 am

Yellowshaker wrote:OK, you guys are great. I got it to work. Com port wasn't selected. In any case, my next problem didn't take long. I am able to load sound sets. However, the proportional sounds are not working. The engine starts and idles but that is all. I am not sure if it is something in parameters I am missing or what. I have zero experience with this system and as stated, the instructions are rather limited. Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but I am trying to learn.


Hi!
Did you set it to autostart at parameters? You have sounds at least 5 (or 6) slots when you load them to the program? Did you use the connecrions next to the speaker ones (prop1), cause autostart with proportional is working from there?.

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Postby wibblywobbly » Mon Nov 05, 2018 9:17 am

Autostart is a weird one for anyone getting these boards. Without the USB programmer you need to short the two board contacts to cycle through the settings and it is hit and miss due to how fiddly it is. With the USB you can do it from the software.

The next thing that will stop the running engine sounds is the throttle position set up. This can only be done by shorting the contacts. With a model on a block to stop it going anywhere, the pins are shorted, and a quick series of beeps and throttle movements tells the board where the idle position, off idle, and full throttle positions are.
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Postby c6doki » Wed Nov 07, 2018 5:29 pm

I managed to set it like that way fine. Not at first but I used to it fast.
1. Short while switch on
2. Move throttle to desired start position and hold still beep. (Just barely move and hold it because if you add to much than sound will late according to throttle.)
3. Hold full throttle until beeps 3 times.
4. Off/on normally. That's it.
I've had only issues with reverse sound delay but I managed to eliminate it with a little trim from Tx.
Since I just bought a TTL converter a week ago I finally managed to change sounds as well.
Still use it in autostart because I have only 3 ch gear and the 3rd is the wich.
I'd like to thank you guys for these awesome and simple instructions btw.
Cheers

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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Sat Feb 16, 2019 4:14 pm

Small update here. Today I have installed an amplifyer. You can buy four of them for one euro free shipping in aliexpress.
There are several models, I just bout the smaller and cheaper of all, lol.

51924613_589729908210684_1869855385733562368_n.jpg


The difference (with a propper speaker) is night and day. So guys, for 25 cents you can make your small board rock.
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