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Welsh Dragon Models

Dasmikro (TBS Benedini clone)

Talk about all other types of electronics here, such as batteries!

Postby Rad_Schuhart » Sun Nov 19, 2017 9:20 pm

Hi everyone, I decided to open this thread because I found this small (makes honor to his name) board is really impressive and it worths a try and I may help a lot to those guys struggling with the Heng Long trucks, the Open Panzer board and so on.

First of all, if you can afford it, you should buy the original from the Benedini site. http://www.benedini.de The price of the board would be 89 euros, + 22 of the programming cable, + shipping... Pricey? Yes. Way too pricey for me, impossible to justify, so I just bought the chinesse knockout that you can find everywhere from less than 20 euros free shipping and comes with pins and even a small speaker.

Second, I must say that I am very surprised about the lack of info in internet about it... Is not easy to find how to toy with it, and I even googleed for it in three languajes with poor results... I think the vast majoroty of people just sticks with the stock sounds and they dont use any of the extra features at all...

So for controlling the board you need:
1) A ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) with a BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit) This means the ESC power the Dasmikro and the receiver) with a maximum output of 5v. Warning, you can use the battery that you want (of course according to your ESC limitations), but the ESC must supply a maximum of 5v to the dasmikro.
2) A programable radio would be ideal with his receiver. Sorry, no crappy tamiya attack radios here, lol. Also the heng long/taigen ones wont work.

With this board you can do virtually everything you want... It has 5 motor noises (Start, idle, rev up, moving, rev down and shutdown) and a maximum of 16 custom sounds where you can put wathever you want... But limited with a máximum of 512 kbs of memory. Yes, I know the memory is small, but it gives you something like 30 seconds, wich is not bad at all.

Also the board works as a proportional smoke regulator, and even you can control all the lights you want. You can trigger the lights in the order you want, blinking, steady, flashing and even with sounds (For example a orange led flashing with a machine gun sound makes a working machine gun, lol) You even can adjust how fast you want them to flash... Is not the same a cal 50 machine gun than a MG42, right? Also it has brake lights, rear lights... Definitely you can have all the lights you can wish, and there is no need of any extra electronic switch.

For programing the board you need:
0) A word that I lean in this forum. RTFM!!! (Read the F. manual, lol. I uploaded it in the Download section in the forum)
1) A computer with I think, windows. It seems it works in all windows from windows XP. I tested it in W10. If somebody with another OS tries it, Ill update the thread.
2) Install the drivers (For some reason I CANNOT upload them in the forum) Mods help?
3) Install the Benedini program. (Uploaded in the forum)
4) And a programer board. This is a nice point. DO NOT BUY THE PROGRAMMER AT BANGGOOD. Dont buy it alone, and dont buy the board that comes with it. It comes bad wired and it wont work, and also is over expensive. Buy a cheap 3 programmer like this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Basic-Breakout ... SwImRYUYAV
And wire it following the diagram, BUT the VCC wire is not needed at all: (Warning, your programmer might have a different order of wires, but just follow the names. I mean, connect for example the GD wire where you programmer says GD) lol
2,3.png
2,3.png (294.05 KiB) Viewed 378 times

If you already have the bang me good programmer, just take a look to it and be sure all the wires are like the diagram.

About sounds:
All the sounds in the board need to have the same format. I am using 22khz 8 bit .wav files, and I am having a total amount of something about 30 seconds played. For explaining how to make sounds I need to do another looong tutorial, but thats not the point now. The quality I am using is the best the board can play. With worse quality I guess you can use longer sounds, but I have not tested it yet.
The board has 1W output power. Well, the board comes with a small speaker wich has a very low power and poor sound quality... I considered installing an amp of 3W but first I tried just replacing the speaker... And WHAT A DIFFERENCE, MAN! The board is LOUD. Really loud, in my opinion it does not need any AMP at all, if you replace the speaker with a better one, the board is definitelly loud enough, at least for the Heng Long trucks, not sure about a full metal with steal gears Tiger... Just be sure to install at least a speaker with 8 Ohm or above. I had very bad results with the 4 Ohm one.
Another marvel of this small board is that you can adjust the volume from the radio too, and there is no need to use aditional channels or to plug anything extra to the receiver. I am really surprised about it.

And when programming the sounds, you can also set the volume, or for example if when playing a custom sound you want the motor sound to stop... Its usefull, really. I am using this in a hand made P40, I will do a video when I finish it, in a couple of years, maybe, lol.
Last edited by Rad_Schuhart on Wed Nov 22, 2017 4:32 pm, edited 12 times in total.
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Sun Nov 19, 2017 9:26 pm

Some videos to have a better idea about the light features:

phpBB [video]


phpBB [video]
Last edited by Rad_Schuhart on Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Sun Nov 19, 2017 9:50 pm

Thats all today, I'll update the thread tomorrow with the drivers, apps and some software tutorials.
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Postby midlife306 » Mon Nov 20, 2017 12:03 am

Thank you VERY much Rad, I’ll be watching this thread closely!
Cheers
Wayne


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Postby tomhugill » Mon Nov 20, 2017 9:23 am

Great thread! Thanks for the heads up on the programmer too

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Postby Max-U52 » Mon Nov 20, 2017 12:14 pm

I've been waiting for this thread and will be following closely. I'll take a good look at my programmer after work and see what I have. I got mine from ebay, not bangmegood so it may be different. I know for sure that right now it doesn't have a standard j connector so I at least have to do something with that, but now I at least know where the wires need to go.
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:18 pm

Ok, today I have some more minutes to continue writing about the board.

Max, I dont know what kind of programmer you have, but a standar J connector wont fit. The J connector and the normal pins are double the size you need. What I did in my small board is to solder some 1,27mm female connectors like these ones:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-50-Pin-5 ... SwBahVC4Rz

I decided to solder the female ones in the board, because they are really small and the male ones are more fragile than the female ones.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-50P-50-Pi ... SwMmBV0TOU

This makes everything a lot easier, specialy when testing the light options. Its always easier to plug and unplug things than soldering, specialy in such a small connectors.

I was also going to write a long tutorial about how to wire and set up everything, but then I found some videotutorials on internet. Those tutorials are with the Benedini MINI, but with the micro is the same in about a 90%.


Adding custom sounds tutorial:
phpBB [video]


Parameters tutorial: This is the most important, most of the info you need is here!
phpBB [video]
Last edited by Rad_Schuhart on Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:57 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:27 pm

Board.png


Well, this is the board we are working on. For wiring the lights, you need to put one of the led legs (I think the positive, but reversing polarity seems to not to be a problem, the led wont light but wont burn or explode) to A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, A6, A/, A8, or A9 and the other where it says ground. I think the output power is 5v, so you might need some resistors.

So when you are programming the board with the software, you can select which output you want to use, and what do you want it to do. You can program all the outputs to do wathever you want. Flashing, blinking, steady... So it has a lot of flexibility.

No idea what are PWM1 and PWM2 are used for, lol.


And the last (and hardest) part of the board is how to trigger the light and sounds themselves... I must confess Im a bit green on it, but I am on the right way. For being able to select wathever you want, you need to have a 12 position encoder or rotary switch in your radio... I replaced one of the potentiometers in my radio with a 6 position switch, and using the amazing powerfull ersky9x softare, combining that 6 pos swtich with another switch, it would be like having a 12 position switch in my radio. Cool, doesnt it?

Anyway, due to the sound lenght is quite small, this is not realy needed... You can program the radio to trigger one sound with the PROP 3, AND, this is the best part, another two sounds with the PROP 2, sending a +100 and a -100 of signal, just connecting wires from the dasmikro to the receover. As easy as that. But yes, definitely id say you need a programable board, or at least one with screen so you can see what the hell you are doing.

The best part of the PROP2 stuff, is that you can trigger up to 2 sounds without needing to select them first, making this small board suitable for the Open Panzer board, due to now you can quickly shoot your cannon and your machine gun, and we also we have at least another extra sound in the prop 3 when using another 3 pos switch, or 12 if using a 12 position switch.

But even when I love having a lot of sounds (you all know I love my 220 sounds in my Sherman, lol) again due to the memory limit, I'd say is more than enought with something about three custom extra sounds (not including motors, of course).
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Postby wibblywobbly » Mon Nov 20, 2017 10:09 pm

For wiring the lights, you need to put one of the led legs (I think the positive, but reversing polarity seems to not to be a problem, the led wont light but wont burn or explode)


One trick to get reversing lights even if you don't have a board is to wire them to the motor terminals so that they light up when the motors are reversed. You need a resistor as the led's are likely to be 5v max, motors are more than that. An led only lights up when the current is running one way, so when the motors are going forwards they are turned off.

Might help someone. :wave:
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Postby Max-U52 » Mon Nov 20, 2017 10:48 pm

OK, I think I'm ready to try and learn a thing or three here, with a little help from my friends. 8)

Here's the first mikro I bought, and the programming cable. It's a bit different from yours, Rad, but I think you'll understand it and be able to help me figger it out. Check out these two quick videos and they'll show you where I'm at

phpBB [video]


phpBB [video]


I guess I need to solder the connector to the mikro but those are some tiny little holes and they're really close together. Know any good video tutorials for soldering tiny little boards like this?
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:51 am

Hi Max, I got that programmer with my board too. It came bad wired and I suspect a bit messed up because the shipping... But what I did is I just unplugged the J connector, took the wires out and connected to other programmer that I had followed the diagram above. But if you just connect the wires in the correct order, it should work.

The 3.3v in the diagram, means to use a programer with a maximum output power of 3.3v, because a 5.5v will fry the dasmikro. Most of the usb programmers has a jumper where you can select how do you want it to work, so please be sure to select 3.3v. Also remember the VCC is not needed, you only need to plug three wires, thats all. TX, RX and GND. Forget about the rest.

You also mentioned something important, and is yes, you need to have your dasmikro plugged to the receiver, and the receiver plugged to the ESC, and the ESC to the battery. In other words, you need the board to be powered on when connecting to the computer.

1.jpg


2.jpg


3.jpg


Also there is no need to solder the connector to the board, but I really recommend it. The conexion is pretty poor, and if you disconnect the board when programming, disaster can happen... So what I did is to solder female 1.27mm pin headers. Any how to solder normal pin headers video must be what you need, but in a smaller size. There are plenty in youtube so you can choose the one suits you most.

4.jpg
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Postby Estnische » Tue Nov 21, 2017 11:51 am

Rad - this stuff is great. I have been occasionally pushing for more people with RC skills to do this kind of thing. There seems to me to be plenty of help for modelling and mechanicals, but a big gap between those with RC knowledge and the rest of us. I'd like to see this made as a sticky.
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Tue Nov 21, 2017 8:42 pm

Estnische wrote:Rad - this stuff is great. I have been occasionally pushing for more people with RC skills to do this kind of thing. There seems to me to be plenty of help for modelling and mechanicals, but a big gap between those with RC knowledge and the rest of us. I'd like to see this made as a sticky.


Thank you very much for your kind words.

And yes, I agree with you. I dont want to derrail the thread, but I am surprised about the fact that really skilled modellers in the forums spent infinite hours making the toy look like a museum piece, and spent hundreds and hundreds in photoetched parts and so on... And then they run the tank with the stock heng long or tamiya electronics wich are not much better... Or if they installed something cool inside we know nothing about it...

For me, the sounds, lights and extra features are the the most important part of the fun, so that's why I always keep looking for something new.

Anyway I am far far away from being expert, lol. But if anybody has any question and I know the answer, I'll be happy to help!.
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Postby Max-U52 » Thu Nov 23, 2017 3:59 pm

This has all been great so far, Rad, but you still haven't gotten to the part I've really been waiting for ... Volume Control. Can you adjust volume from the transmitter, or even just pre-set it to different volume levels? The lighting features are very impressive, but to be honest I probably won't use them, and the stock sound set seems to work well for me, it's just being able to turn it up or down that still eludes me.

If only the damn esc would get here. I have about 6 of them on order from about 4 different vendors and I've been waiting for weeks. The one esc I do have is great for testing (thanks again, Jack) but I want to start installing stuff in it's permanent location.

OK, that little esc vent helped a great deal. @)
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Postby c.rainford73 » Thu Nov 23, 2017 4:05 pm

Gary what esc versions have you ordered? Just wanted to know the model. Oh and Happy Turkey Day my friend
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Postby Max-U52 » Thu Nov 23, 2017 5:37 pm

Hey Carl, ordered a couple, this is the 10 amp

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10A-Bustophedo ... 2749.l2649

and this is the 20 amp

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Quality-RC-ESC ... 2749.l2649

and I have the esc that I got with the spektrum radio, which is the one I might use in the Mercedes, and I'll have a video about that momentarily. I'm afraid I'm going to have to take back what I said about lights not being important to me. They are, just not yet. Stand by. @) :/ :haha: 8) ;)
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Postby Max-U52 » Thu Nov 23, 2017 5:45 pm

OK, this will be the project where I try to get the very most out of the das mikro. I need to order a couple more mini jst sockets since I have four boards and only two sockets, but I really think this project will show off the board, if my hippie brain can get wrapped around it all. Naturally I'll do a separate thread when I start the 540K, but here's a little teaser.

phpBB [video]


:wave:
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Postby Max-U52 » Thu Nov 23, 2017 5:48 pm

Oh yeah, Happy Thanksgiving to all, and for those of you in a nation where they don't habla Thanksgiving Day, just know that there are people here that are taking this day to remember all that we are thankful for, like being a member of a great hobby community like this one.
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Thu Nov 23, 2017 5:55 pm

Hi Crius. Yes to both questions. You can pre set the volume of every sound and you can adjust all the sounds together from your transmitter. For those struggling with the soundboard with the open panzer and other projects, my parameters may or may not work with your setup, ESCs and radios, so I dont suggest to copy them. Remember I am using this board and parameters for a P-40 (a warbird)

2.png
2.png (43.78 KiB) Viewed 154 times


How to do it the easy way? Copy all my parameters, and in the 2nd coder area, instead of sound 1 and sound 2 put Volume Up, and Volume Down.

Then connect a servo wire to PROP 2 in the Dasmikro to a free channel in your radio. A three pos switch would be ideal here. A +100 of the signal will rise the volume and a -100 will lower it.

Of course you can use two 2-pos switches instead of one... But everything is a matter of proggramming your board.
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Postby Rad_Schuhart » Thu Nov 23, 2017 6:05 pm

Wow, I just saw your Mercedes, Max. Such a beauty... Definitelly it would be a shame to stick with the stock RC toy system. It needs proportional control, and better sounds.

About the lights, I LOVE that yellowish-white, but yeah, It would be cool to choose which ones you want to switch it on and off, doesn it? The same with the rear, brake lights, reverse speed, indicators...

Dont worry, I'll try to help you as far as I can, but I am no expert, lol.
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