How do I eliminate

Discuss the good old Heng Long electronics here, whether its mods on them or anything else, it goes here!

Postby Norton1 » Thu Jan 11, 2018 3:45 am

the track portion of the recoil on the KT? I bought a piece from our german friends and it came with no instructions. Just three wires out the back and a place to plug a 2 pin connector in. And 4 places to put other wires into. It's a lovely unit, and I saw a wiring diagram here but danged if I can find it now. I think it is called an ARM unit?

Thanks and be well,
Steve

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Postby RobW » Thu Jan 11, 2018 11:59 am

Pretty sure it goes between the RX board & the motors. I've got one somewhere and am equally stumped, not least because it looks like I need to solder something....

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Postby Norton1 » Thu Jan 11, 2018 3:45 pm

Yep, there is soldering involved. The Modelbau folks sent a set of instructions in German. I have a niece who is German and will likely need to get her to translate for me.

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Postby Norton1 » Thu Jan 11, 2018 5:24 pm

Instructions - hmm Nich spreken sie Deutsch

20180111_090851 (700x525).jpg
20180111_090930 (700x525).jpg

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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Fri Jan 12, 2018 1:11 am

Quick precis of the instructions you have there:
!. Check you have an RX14 or RX18 board. This unit only works with HL RX14 or 18 boards.
2. There are three solder points/pins to make. Ensure you look at the diagram carefully, and solder to the correct points.
3. Solder point/pin 1: Ground ( Black cable or Earth)...best thing is to solder it to the Main Switch.
Solder point/pin 2 : Signal (Green cable)...it is the third pin from the left on the little HL board (see picture). Be careful not to make a short circuit. !!!
Solder point/pin 3 : 7.2v (+)...(Red cable).. Should also be soldered to the Main Switch.
4. Cut the red cable from the left motor, and the same for terminals 1a and 1b screws and now the same with the red right hand terminals screws 2a and 2b.
Now you are ready.... "

Hope this helps. It's a bit rough but just about correct, i think. :thumbup:
Roy.
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Postby Norton1 » Fri Jan 12, 2018 5:37 am

4. Cut the red cable from the left motor, and the same for terminals 1a and 1b screws and now the same with the red right hand terminals screws 2a and 2b.

I'm with you to this point. And Thank you BTW for your expert assistance!! I will look at the tank tomorrow and see which wires I cut. Just the red ones? And I have the RX-18 board.

Thanks again!!
Be well,
Steve

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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Fri Jan 12, 2018 12:06 pm

Norton1 wrote:4. Cut the red cable from the left motor, and the same for terminals 1a and 1b screws and now the same with the red right hand terminals screws 2a and 2b.

I'm with you to this point. And Thank you BTW for your expert assistance!! I will look at the tank tomorrow and see which wires I cut. Just the red ones? And I have the RX-18 board.

Thanks again!!
Be well,
Steve


That's all I could glean from the pic you posted, Steve. I noted that it was page 3 of three, so I've no idea what was written on the other two. :think: I'm glad you're not defusing an unexploded bomb though! :)
I'm pretty sure that my translation is accurate enough; but it's possible that it wouldn't be all that clear even to a native speaker either, if it's a translation- in turn- from Taiwanese or mandarin :D
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Postby Norton1 » Sat Jan 13, 2018 1:02 am

The cutting of the left red cable then the right one doesn't make sense to me. Am I supposed to run the red from each one through the connector? I mean, cut the red wire from each motor and route them through this unit?

20180112_164129 (700x525).jpg
My wiring


The picture isn't all that clear.
20180112_164154 (700x525).jpg
The instructions


Be well and thanks!
I'm glad it isn't a bomb either!!

Steve

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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sat Jan 13, 2018 1:39 am

I can only go with what was on p.3, Steve. Personally, I've not had any experience with track recoil reduction systems; not do I feel an urgent need to modify them. In a way, I quite like the dramatic moments the create- even if it is just 'ham' overacting.
I imagine cutting the red wires to the motors will prevent the recoil signal getting to them. Then again, the motors will need some source of power from the Battery (+) via the MFU L and R terminals, and so there should still be a direct connection from the MFU to the motors. Then again, it's the MFU providing the recoil signal to the motors. Therefore, the red to the motor has to pass though the recoil nullifying unit before it reaches the motor (+) terminals, I guess. Looking at your wiring, the motors are connected directly to the L and R connects on the MFU. Normally, that's how it goes.
Somehow the unit has to be wired in between the MFU and the motors,,rather like a switch, I guess.
Not having the setup to hand, nor my usual tools (multimeter. continuity tester..etc.) it's hard to proceed in a meaningful way. If the wires somehow pass through it's not made clear here in the text, and the diagrams ..being vague greyscale.. don't make it any easier to see what to do though this iPad I'm using. :think:
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Postby Norton1 » Sat Jan 13, 2018 2:01 am

Even on the big screen the picture is pathetic. I sent Model-bau an email asking for a clearer picture and an explanation in
english. My hopes are not high. If they can't help me then I will post a bad experience with them and let it go from there.

I don't mind the recoil so much, but if my tank is shooting to the rear it looks a tad wierd. And I don't know how stout the plastic gears are in 2 of my models. The steel can likely handle it OK but it really jerks hard.

Thanks again for your help on this dang thing. I know someone on here has done this and even posted a workaround that one could build themselves. I was hoping they would come forward. Well at least it isn't a bomb.

Be well,
Steve

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Postby 43rdRecceReg » Sat Jan 13, 2018 2:04 am

It's hard to see detail on the unit. Does it have four marked (1a, 1b etc..) terminals populated by screws? If so, these are the screws to attach the L and R red, motor cables to once they have been cut from the motors..as per instructions. Are there no clearer illustrations? I'm guessing..and it is a guess, that when you cut the left red cable in half, one end will go to 1a say, and the other to 1b. Ib then completes the circuit to the MFU motor terminal (L) This would create continuity between the motor Red (+) terminal passing though the recoil reducer. Ditto with the right red cable on terminals 2a and 2b. That is: red from motor (R +) to 2a and 2b then continues the circuit to MFU motor terminal (R) Hope this makes some sense. :problem:
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Postby c.rainford73 » Sat Jan 13, 2018 3:50 am

Here is a very spaghetti like setup in my Tiger I. It has an ATRC unit from Max-U52 (rctanksaustralia)

If you look carefully both the red wires coming from the rx18 get intercepted to the ATRC and then into the rx18.

Then you connect your three wires as Roy described to you rx18 to get the signal ( as per the instructions)Image
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Postby c.rainford73 » Sat Jan 13, 2018 3:52 am

The ATRC uses a five pin connector to interact with the rx18. Yours is different so you need to connect as per the instructions and solder. It's the board closest to the gearboxes. Works excellent!

Carl
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Postby Norton1 » Sat Jan 13, 2018 7:02 am

Roy and Carl, yep I believe that is the ticket. The piece I received from Model-Bau has the screws inline - and there are 4 of them. So I will presume that is how they go. Same as your picture Carl. As a Marine I can only say that pictures work 8O

Now I can take a short break from the Zim and do electrical. ;D

Be well and many Thanks,
Steve

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Postby Raminator » Sat Jan 13, 2018 12:00 pm

Norton1 wrote:The cutting of the left red cable then the right one doesn't make sense to me. Am I supposed to run the red from each one through the connector? I mean, cut the red wire from each motor and route them through this unit?

Steve, my understanding is that you cut the red wire from the left motor, and attach one each of the cut ends to terminals 1A and 1B. You then cut the red wire from the right motor and attach each cut end to terminals 2A and 2B. This way, when the board receives the firing signal (from your soldered connection 3), it will cut the power to the motors, stopping them from reversing direction and jerking the tank.
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Postby Norton1 » Sat Jan 13, 2018 8:22 pm

Raminator - that's what I think also. Carl has his wired that way and it makes sense. Thanks for further solidifying the process.

Be well,
Steve

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Postby Norton1 » Sun Jan 14, 2018 11:29 pm

20180114_125621 (700x525).jpg
Which post is #3? Carl is that unit you received from the Aussies a plug in with no soldering?

Be well,
Steve

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Postby c.rainford73 » Sun Jan 14, 2018 11:32 pm

Norton1 wrote:
20180114_125621 (700x525).jpg
Which post is #3? Carl is that unit you received from the Aussies a plug in with no soldering?

Be well,
Steve
Hi Steve, it's not a plug in but it doesn't require soldering. It has lugs that you tighten for motor #1 red to board then from board to rx18. Same for the other motor.

As for the interface it uses the five pin connector from the rx18 then you plug the upper hull recoil mechanisms into it.

How does your connect to the rx18?
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Postby Norton1 » Sun Jan 14, 2018 11:38 pm

The only rx-18 is the one wire that is soldered

Be well,
Steve

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Postby c.rainford73 » Sun Jan 14, 2018 11:59 pm

Norton1 wrote:The only rx-18 is the one wire that is soldered

Be well,
Steve
Steve it appears your track recoil eliminating device may work for the older version of the rx18, not your new version. I just went through your photos and it appears this is the case
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