some pics of my old HE Abrams with HL internals

[greengiant]

Figured I better post some pics of my HE Abrams. I installed all HL electronics Remade the turret hatches and commanders copula to represent what they really look like including the 50 cal mount. Now that HL has its version out ( not in the USA yet ) and its a bb shooter and doesn't have the correct 50 cal mount, I will probably be trying to mount my turret on the HL hull.

[Peter22]

Good Choice.. It's look nice in complete shape. Thanks for sharing.

[greengiant]

Thanks. I imagine that once HL version is in wider distribution we will be seeing a lot more of the Abrams and builds representing its different versions.

[twain7]

the commanders copula on the one that HL put out is the correct one for that tank. Technically the one on the HE version is incorrect. Both tanks are incorrect with the apu being on the tank and the apu on the back of the HE version is incorrect. The apu is an m1a1 thing it doesnt go on the A2. The HE version has poorly made spockets, no guide wheels, the front slope on the hull is incorrect on the HE it doesnt have the right angle. neither one of the tanks have adjustable idler wheels. the gps on the HE is incorrect. your vehicle looks good and i applaud your for your skill.

[greengiant]

Your right about the commanders copula, but even the HL long has a small flaw in that the arms that support the 50 cal pintle are straight. On the real copula they are bent slightly up and then flatten out at the pintle which just clears the gunners sight cover.
The bustle mounted APU is correct for the first version of the M1A2 and the HL one looks pretty accurate. The very first APU's were mounted on the right rear of the M1A1 and then moved to the turret bustle, where they were sometimes removed by crews as they broke down to give them more storage space. They stayed until the Abrams SEP ( or SEP v1 ) when the APU was moved inside the left rear sponson with a small intake port on the hull side and an exhaust vent on the hull rear between the left grill and taillight housing.
on the bustle rack is the air conditioning coil housing, the air conditioner compressor is located inside the turret above the gunners station. The Freon lines and electric lines between the two parts run under the bustle and turret and enter the turret near the rear of the turret ring.
The HE suspension is made to work with the rubber band track and the rigors a kid playing with his first RC tank might put it through.
The HL idlers are incorrect mostly because the front one has 2 wheels to keep the track center guide in place. Abrams have always had a problem with throwing track ( because of the soft suspension and long travel of the road wheel arms ) That's why they tried putting a retainer ring on the rear sprocket ( HE has that molding on its rear sprocket ) and while it helped a little they found that the best way to keep the track on was to have drivers who knew when they could make a sharp turn or not and at what speed. I believe the Marines still carry that retainer ring but usually it goes unmounted. The HL rear sprockets are missing the mud relieving holes on the outside part of the sprocket
The current Abrams in use by the army is the M1A2 SEP v2 which has a completely remote controlled 50 cal for the commander, a GPS antenna located just behind the commanders thermal viewing tower and a few other visible changes to the Internal APU and other things.

If you go to the Heng Long builds Forum you can see what I've done with the HL Abrams to change it to the SEP v1 version with a little more detail and corrections to things like the angle of the of the smoke dischargers.
I used this HE Abrams as a parts source for changing a HL from bb firing to HL Ir battle version with barrel recoil and muzzle flash.

[atcttge]

I've got metal sprockets for the HL M1. I am thinking of drilling out the mud relieving holes, but I am wary that it might weaken the sprockets. Do you think making the holes would weaken the metal sprockets? Will be using metal tracks and steel gearbox (but will upgrade the motors one day to more powerful ones).

[greengiant]

I was worried that that would happen with the plastic sprockets on my HL Abrams but I've had no trouble with them as they are only on the outside part of the sprocket like the real ones and since they are kind of oval rather then square there are no 90 degree corners for a crack to start at and run to the next cut out.
I think you will have no problem with the metal sprocket just mark the holes positions with fine tip black marker ( they are really not that big ) and carefully grind them out with a dermal tool using a tungsten metal cutting bit a little at a time so the sprockets don't get to hot as that could cause a crack or warping of the sprockets shape to start.
As long as you get the shape correct I would think you will have no problems as the metal ones I've seen (and the HL plastic ones) don't have the outer rings scallops' molded on them which makes them them pretty strong .
Here's some a pic of mine with the plastic sprocket cutouts and pics of the real thing. You notice that there are only four cutouts and they are not that close together.

[atcttge]

Nice! Thanks for the tip. I'll consider doing the same with the metal sprockets.

[greengiant]

Good luck. Post something with a picture of the end result.