TAMIYA M1A2 Displaymodel

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Postby kintaroukinji » Fri May 01, 2020 10:36 am

As some modelers have pointed out, the mount of the smoke discharger has a different shape. The shape of the smoke discharger mount in this model is cantilevered in mechanics.
If this shape is applied to an actual tank, it will not have rigidity and strength against the launch reaction force. Even though it was a model, I thought that the part with the impossible shape should be corrected. Of course, I think that there is also the idea that it is only necessary to express the overall atmosphere as a shape. Some modelers make the mount from scratch, but I modified the mount part using the shape of the parts of this model. To be honest, the reason is that I don't have the patience and enthusiasm to fully scratch this. I modified the shape so that it is as close to the actual shape as possible, and at least not a cantilever.
smoke7.JPG


smoke10.JPG

Furthermore, the lock handles have been omitted from the loader's hatch, so I added some details.
loaders hatch25.JPG


loaders hatch33.JPG
Last edited by kintaroukinji on Mon May 04, 2020 2:25 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Postby BarryC » Fri May 01, 2020 12:02 pm

Looking good! :clap:

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Postby kintaroukinji » Sat May 02, 2020 4:32 am

Barry,
Thank you for your comment.

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Postby kintaroukinji » Sun May 10, 2020 11:20 am

The Mine plow power socket on the left side of the driver's hatch is omitted in this model, so I made it with laminated plastic plates.
mine b7.JPG


Since it has a complicated shape, I made it by trial and error.
mine b14.JPG

mine b15.JPG


Next I will install a spare wheel. However, since this model kit does not include any spare accessories, I have no choice but to ask Tamiya for additional parts, make it myself, or plunder it from other models. When I got the MATO metal sprocket wheel before, the idler wheel was included in the set, so I modified this idler wheel to use it as a spare wheel. This MATO metal wheel does not have a good bolt mold detail, so I cut them all and installed new bolts. I made a bolt hole in the inner bolt circle and made a mounting base with a plastic plate.
spare wheel13.JPG

spare wheel10.JPG

spare wheel16.JPG

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Postby kintaroukinji » Mon May 25, 2020 11:12 am

Spare tracks are also not included in this kit. If you can loot spare tracks from Trumpeter's 1/16 M1A2 kit, or have extra tracks such as Heng Long, there is no problem. But unfortunately I don't have them. Buying new to get them is also very uneconomical to me. After all, I have no choice but to make spare tracks myself.
It is strange that even modern tanks do not have spare tracks, so I made spare tracks by laminating plastic plates of 1.5mmt and 1.0mmt. The only tanks without any of these OVM would be abandoned tanks or tanks for display.
This is a self-made spare track before painting. 
spare track51.JPG

This is a painted track, front and back.
spare track75.JPG

spare track78.JPG


I attached this to the handrail on the left side of the turret.
spare track82.JPG


This is a state where the back of the crawler track is facing outward and hooked on the handrail.
spare track80.JPG

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Postby kintaroukinji » Sat May 30, 2020 11:12 am

There is a rectangular parallelepiped on the front side fender of the M1A2 Abrams.
In this kit model, this part is a solid rectangular parallelepiped, but according to the picture of the real tank, it is a hollow rectangular parallelepiped. I think it's probably jig for passing the wire rope when removing and installing the side fender.
This is a picture of the real tank. If anyone knows the purpose, please let me know.
front fender.jpg

In order to change this into a hollow one like a real tank, I made this part by bending a thin copper plate into a rectangle, soldering it, and replacing it. At that time, I was concerned that the mounting bolts of the front fender mudguard mat were molded with ambiguous round screw expressions (hexagon bolts for real tanks), and I also noticed that the number of bolts on the upper surface was also wrong. Real tank has seven hexagon bolts on the upper surface of the fender, but this model has a mold of eight pins. This part in the box art of this kit is drawn properly and the number is not wrong. There is no mistake in the 1/35 model of other companies. Tamiya 1/48 M1A2 model is correct for that parts. Since it is an expensive and relatively new kit, I honestly regret this "Tamiya" attitude with respect to 1/16 scale tank. I wonder if the basic design of the external shape of this kit is simply a 1/16 scale expansion of the previous 1/35 kit. Of course, I scraped the pin mold and installed the correct number of hex bolts.
front mad7.JPG


front mad4.JPG

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Postby kintaroukinji » Sat Jun 06, 2020 4:44 pm

The exterior detailing is almost complete. I'm just basic painting and haven't weathered yet. An exhaust deflector is attached to the engine exhaust port to prevent burns. Exhaust gas temperature from the gas turbine engine is so high that steaks can be grilled. (The heat efficiency is so bad.)
_DSC6546.JPG

排熱で焼き肉.JPG

As OVM, spare wheel, spare tracks, jerry cans, ammo boxes, and military storage box were placed. Alice bags, sachets, and luggage should be placed on the tank to create a life atmosphere for the crew. I often see model works with lots of luggage placed directly on the M1 ABRAMS turret blow-off panel. But in real tanks, it not only hinders the rear view from the Commanders Cupola's periscope, but can also impair the blow-off panel function. This is unlikely to be the case with tanks that are operating in real combat, as they are concerned with the lives of the crew.
_DSC6557.JPG

_DSC6552.JPG

_DSC6545.JPG

_DSC6542.JPG

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Postby kintaroukinji » Fri Jun 12, 2020 2:30 pm

I would attach military alice bags to the tank to give the tank crew a feel of life. I got 1/16 scale 3D printed alice bags. I attached shoulder straps made of brass strip to the back of these 3D printed alice bags by embedding brass wire. I attached alice bags by sandwiching the handrail on the side of the turret with this brass strip. 3D printed blankets are also on board.
Alice bag 3D(24).JPG


Alice bag7.JPG


Alice bag8.JPG


Alice bag5.JPG


Alice bag6.JPG
Attachments
ALICE BAG F (6).JPG
Last edited by kintaroukinji on Sat Jun 13, 2020 5:31 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Postby HERMAN BIX » Fri Jun 12, 2020 9:09 pm

Simply Magnificent :clap: :clap:
The details added are well thought out and when viewed in entirety, make all the difference.
no matter which angle you look, there is something going on.
Top job.
Great real pic of the steak cooking too !!
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Postby kintaroukinji » Sat Jun 13, 2020 6:55 am

Thank you very much for your compliment.

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Postby kintaroukinji » Fri Jun 26, 2020 3:39 pm

I made a tow bar to be installed in front of the M1 Abrams. Tow ropes are a staple in WWII tanks, but tow bar seems to be common in modern tanks.
This was made from WAVE's 8mmΦ plastic pipe and plastic plate laminate.
tow bar23.JPG

The adapter is attached to the tow bar.
Tow bar32.JPG

Some real tanks have tow bar and some do not, but I added it because I thought it would look better as a model with the tow bar.
tow bar50.JPG

tow bar66.JPG

tow bar56.JPG

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Postby BarryC » Fri Jun 26, 2020 5:19 pm

I agree the Tow Bar looks great hanging from the front and adds a level of interest to the forward hull. :thumbup: :thumbup:

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Postby kintaroukinji » Sat Jun 27, 2020 4:37 am

Barry, thanks for your comment. As you say, I also felt that adding the Tow Bar would make the tank forward hull look much better.

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Postby kintaroukinji » Tue Jul 07, 2020 7:05 am

I made a belt to fasten and fix jerry cans. You can see model works of tanks in which jerry cans etc. are randomly placed without being fixed in the bustle rack, but in the case of real tanks, it is obvious that these will jump out of the rack when running. I've heard that real tank crews take great care in arranging and securing their luggage so that it doesn't fall off, hinder sensors and their field of view.
I bent the brass wire into a rectangle and soldered one brass wire across the center of the rectangle to make a buckle for the band. The band material can be anything that is strip-shaped and flexible, but I used a brass band plate this time.
BAND2_01.JPG

BAND3.JPG


With this method, you can easily make the binding band and buckle in a shape that looks good, although it does not have a length adjustment function like the real one. If the belt material is more flexible, such as cloth or paper, this buckle can allow for length adjustment.
JERRY CAN (6).JPG

JERRY CAN (3).JPG

A fixed band for jerry cans. I also put a band on the blanket and small arms.
JERRY CAN (5).JPG

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