Servo Operated Animation
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This section is for posting helpful Tips and Tricks only. Questions need to be posted within general questions section viewforum.php?f=14
This section is for posting helpful Tips and Tricks only. Questions need to be posted within general questions section viewforum.php?f=14
Servo Operated Animation
I'm at the stage of modifying some tanks for servo elevation and traverse, and other functions. I'm curious how others have accomplished this. What types of servos were used, what kind of linkages were employed, what transmitters and boards were used. Anything you wish to share would be appreciated.
If there is an existing thread about this, I'd be obliged if someone would direct me. Thanks!
If there is an existing thread about this, I'd be obliged if someone would direct me. Thanks!
Renault FT, British WW1 Mk. 4), Pz 1A DAK, 1B, II L, III, StuG III, PzKpfw IV, StuG IV, King Tiger, T-34/76, KV-1E, T-35A 3DP, Zik-2, T-90, M3 Lee, M4 Sherman, M26 Pershing, M41 Bulldog, M1 Abrams. In the works: Ram II, Pz 1 Breda.
Re: Servo Operated Animation
I only have one tank (Tiger) so my help is very limited. I use a Clark servo elevation/recoil kit that includes the servos. Linkage is via gears. My board is an Elmod Fusion Pro with the extra servo outputs and my radio is a Radiomaster TX16S. I use a micro servo to move my commander’s head operated by the left slider on the radio and it also moves with turret rotation and when the tank steers as well.
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Re: Servo Operated Animation
Hello,
everything will depend on the type of electronics? if you want a system with servos, you have to forget the card and the original transmitter, and switch either to TK at Clark, to IBU2 or Elmod, ilny also has Beiier it seems to me? but for that you need a minimum 6/8 channel RX and TX set, see more? otherwise there is only the good old Asiatam system, but noisy
Asiatam, Clark, there are for the latest, other vendors, 3 D ilpreesion, look at the relevant section on this forum
everything will depend on the type of electronics? if you want a system with servos, you have to forget the card and the original transmitter, and switch either to TK at Clark, to IBU2 or Elmod, ilny also has Beiier it seems to me? but for that you need a minimum 6/8 channel RX and TX set, see more? otherwise there is only the good old Asiatam system, but noisy
Asiatam, Clark, there are for the latest, other vendors, 3 D ilpreesion, look at the relevant section on this forum
- General Jumbo01
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Re: Servo Operated Animation
I use Taigens v3 mfu which allows you to use a good hobby standard radio combo with their 6 leads connecting the receiver to the mfu.
This consumes 6 channels so if you fit, say, a 10 channel receiver you have 4 spare for other operations, such as servos. Given the superb Skyfly 10 channel system costs only around 40 quid and small digital servos under a tenner for 3 you can achieve a lot for not too much.
I used this on my SU100 build, based in a Taigen T34 hull and electrics operating gun elevation and traversing via two small servos, both connecting via fully adjustable 10th scale hobby grade suspension rods and ball joints. By cross operating appropriate channels you can retain sound files that come with the mfu.
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This consumes 6 channels so if you fit, say, a 10 channel receiver you have 4 spare for other operations, such as servos. Given the superb Skyfly 10 channel system costs only around 40 quid and small digital servos under a tenner for 3 you can achieve a lot for not too much.
I used this on my SU100 build, based in a Taigen T34 hull and electrics operating gun elevation and traversing via two small servos, both connecting via fully adjustable 10th scale hobby grade suspension rods and ball joints. By cross operating appropriate channels you can retain sound files that come with the mfu.
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- Raminator
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Re: Servo Operated Animation
Most aftermarket boards (and even some of the newer RTR offerings) will support servo recoil and elevation. There are a number of manufacturers that do servo recoil and/or elevation units. This is one of Clark's (actually for a Tiger) that I've repurposed to use in a T-34 controlled by an Elmod Fusion Pro board:\
I've found that linkages often end up with slop in them, geared sets fit a lot tighter. They move more smoothly and don't flop around as much when the tank is on the move.
I've found that linkages often end up with slop in them, geared sets fit a lot tighter. They move more smoothly and don't flop around as much when the tank is on the move.
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Re: Servo Operated Animation
I
"I've found that linkages often end up with slop in them, geared sets fit a lot tighter. They move more smoothly and don't flop around as much when the tank is on the move."
I'll readily confess that Mr Ram's T34/76 turret has a lot more free space than mine using the Taigen provided mechanism but l think he dismissed linkages too quickly.
I said that if you use, as l did in my SU100, steering and suspension linkages from 1/10 race cars then you'll have absolutely zero slop and joints that withstand huge amounts of "G"s with ease. If you are not familiar with these (and l don't mean the sort of Chinese cheapo buggies but Yokomo, HPI, and even Tamiya race chassis) then visit you local race club and ask for a look around a top car.
The great thing about servos and linkages is that they will fit anywhere, are small and light and infinitely adjustable. The downside is that stock tank electronics do not support real servos, you'll need aftermarket boards and radio systems. Both methods work but you do have a choice. Just don't buy rubbish!
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"I've found that linkages often end up with slop in them, geared sets fit a lot tighter. They move more smoothly and don't flop around as much when the tank is on the move."
I'll readily confess that Mr Ram's T34/76 turret has a lot more free space than mine using the Taigen provided mechanism but l think he dismissed linkages too quickly.
I said that if you use, as l did in my SU100, steering and suspension linkages from 1/10 race cars then you'll have absolutely zero slop and joints that withstand huge amounts of "G"s with ease. If you are not familiar with these (and l don't mean the sort of Chinese cheapo buggies but Yokomo, HPI, and even Tamiya race chassis) then visit you local race club and ask for a look around a top car.
The great thing about servos and linkages is that they will fit anywhere, are small and light and infinitely adjustable. The downside is that stock tank electronics do not support real servos, you'll need aftermarket boards and radio systems. Both methods work but you do have a choice. Just don't buy rubbish!
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- Raminator
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Re: Servo Operated Animation
My apologies General, I'd missed your comment about the adjustable suspension rods. You're right that those would be great, I was thinking of the bent-wire linkages with stock servo attachments that I've used and seen others around here using.
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Re: Servo Operated Animation
No apologies needed. I guessed as much re the bent wire assumption, used frequently in Chinese RC toys. Another good source of adjustable control rods is the RC boat and aircraft hobby. Usually a little lighter in construction but still adequate if you stick with quality
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Owner - Fuckleburgh Tank Collection
Re: Servo Operated Animation
Thanks guys for all your input. I especially appreciate Raminator's photo, as that is exactly the installation I need.
Renault FT, British WW1 Mk. 4), Pz 1A DAK, 1B, II L, III, StuG III, PzKpfw IV, StuG IV, King Tiger, T-34/76, KV-1E, T-35A 3DP, Zik-2, T-90, M3 Lee, M4 Sherman, M26 Pershing, M41 Bulldog, M1 Abrams. In the works: Ram II, Pz 1 Breda.
Re: Servo Operated Animation
That is not entirely true. Z-bars, swivel eye armatures/links, are all dependent on materials, assembly and fit-up.Raminator wrote:I've found that linkages often end up with slop in them, geared sets fit a lot tighter. They move more smoothly and don't flop around as much when the tank is on the move.
Example, my JCC recoil units use 0.047" piano wire Z-Bars. The design allows for roughly 0.5mm of barrel travel which is not due to the linkage, but the hole the linkage sits in. It is also pretty damned smooth IMHO.
I've also seen gears that do not mesh correctly resulting in either high resistance or slop and very easily sheared gear teeth.
I've also seen "reworked" HL airsoft units that have functional recoils and elevation setups, but are made with what was "on-hand" or easily available (aka Kit Bashed). Some well done, others not so much.