Bluing Metal Tracks

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jackalope
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Re: Bluing Metal Tracks

Post by jackalope »

Greengiant if you want damn near bullet proof last for LOOOOOONG time try real rust bluing the way it was done back in the late 1800's. Thats REAL bluing and it lasts the longest out of any method, of course it also takes the longest and is very labor intensive and requires exact timing intervals that you leave the rust bluing on for in a heated humidity box. But the results FANTASTIC! Its what I use when I restore German Lugers. 8)
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greengiant
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Re: Bluing Metal Tracks

Post by greengiant »

I have seen the results that can be achieved by that method but I'd rather send a real gun out to someone to do a complete strip down and reblue. I have A 1917 in 45 apc that is a great shooter. It's not Historically valuable one but over the many years I've had it I've worn most of the original bluing off and am thinking of sending it out to have the timing checked and a new barrel put on along with a complete strip down and reblueing. Also a new side plate without the Argentinian police force logo stamped on it.
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westyIII
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Re: Bluing Metal Tracks

Post by westyIII »

Some great looking tracks here, but a quick question, what material are Taigen Metal Tracks?

This is a great method, and I have used the Birchwood's 'Aluminium Blue' to create a blued effect on aluminium before.

But want to get the correct stuff, and I know little about liquid Bluing!

Cheers

Will
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SovereignZuul
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Re: Bluing Metal Tracks

Post by SovereignZuul »

Hey Westy, sorry haven't been too active on the forums.

Not sure about Taigen. Seems like most tracks are pot metal (zinc).

My really high end tracks segments form the turret and front spare are steel though! Can't recall which brand they are right now.

The blue worked equally well on both the steel and zinc tracks I have.
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Del
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Re: Bluing Metal Tracks

Post by Del »

I've just used the same bluing fluid as everyone else but my technique was slightly different.
After washing the tracks I put enough fluid in a bowl to cover the tracks (the bowl was tilted slightly to reduce the amount needed).i then just dragged the tracks through the fluid and hey presto.
I didn't use any kind of brushing and it took less time to do than typing this post.
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Del
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Re: Bluing Metal Tracks

Post by Del »

In my previous post I used the birchwood casey super blue ordered from the Internet.90ml for 7 ish quid plus postage.
I needed to do some kv1 tracks but didn't want to wait for postage so ent to my local gun shop.He sold a different cold blue solution for £10.55 for 250 ml.
In use it performs the same as the birchwood casey but takes slightly longer to change colour going sort of bronze looking through to black,I liked having a bit more control tbh and the better value.
The real bonus being I can nip found the corner when I need some.
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SovereignZuul
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Re: Bluing Metal Tracks

Post by SovereignZuul »

Looking great Del!
siegfried
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Re: Bluing Metal Tracks

Post by siegfried »

There is also a product for aluminium or pot metal parts called "Aluminium black" same type of product as the steel blues above, comes in liquid form and works in the same way but colours and sticks to aluminium parts in the way the steel blues wont. Always neutralise the acid with a water or oil coat and then seal the finish after, as the acid in the product will oxidize on the metal and later wear or rub off easy if not sealed, very nasty marks will be left on a carpet too :D . Aluminium back also gives a nice dark brown to black finish not bluish like the other products.
siegfried
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Re: Bluing Metal Tracks

Post by siegfried »

Forgot to say you can also get the paste version of blue as well as liquid form, just rub on with a toothbrush. If you apply more than once, each time you apply a coat it will get darker. Do not forget to neutralise that acid with water or oil and do not wait for it to dry out too long before oil application and sealing or it will look bad and rub off the metal surface easy.
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jackalope
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Re: Bluing Metal Tracks

Post by jackalope »

I wonder what the aluminum blue is? Normal gun bluing attacks pot metal and starts to desolate it due to the acids in it. Any idea what this aluminum bluing is made from?
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