Hooben T-55

[Timbo68]

My T-55 build is completed...
It is complicated, as many have commented on forums and elsewhere, requiring a good stock of tools and materials - plus a bit of experience. (I've been model building now for 60 years, I was horrified to realise recently!) It came with no electrics other than the motors, gearboxes, turret motors and servos, and I've used the HL 6.1S MFU, which was straightforward apart from the recoil servo which needed a reverser circuit. I have also fitted metal tracks, etched and treated with tracks wash, and added some PE brass mesh to the engine vents, plus assorted LEDs in rather random colours for lights. There's also an LED behind a co-axial MG, plus an IR emitter, both behind the turret slots, which were difficult to fit due to the main gun mounts, and a plug under a hatch for the HL IR receiver. I managed to squeeze in a smoke unit, and a barrel smoker and flash, plus a cooling fan, and there's only room for a foam-protected 2S LiPo rather than the NiMH I would normally use. I used Velcro so that I could adjust stuff, which has made for a rather untidy interior - but it all works. I had to cut down the HL speaker to fit, and there's also a Henntec track adjuster added. The upper hull is now secured with flat magnets on L-shaped brackets (not shown in the picture) using 1/8" (old stock!) brass rod glued in the front screw holes for location, and for hull stiffening I machined up an aluminium plate screwed under the hull to maximise interior space - it adds some protection to the underside also. I also replaced the steel cables provided (too stiff to work with, I found) with copper aftermarket cable. It's now my favourite tank, I think, and my HL/Taigen hybrid Tiger 1 and the others are a bit upset!
For painting, I camo sprayed MIG030 sand yellow, with MIG0915 dark green, and weathered down with AK sand yellow deposits, to give a generic Middle Eastern effect. For the purists - yes, I included the turret vent, which means it's probably really a T-54 - but I liked it...

[Herr Dr. Professor]

What fine work! Well done, indeed! I see that you used a somewhat light touch on the weathering. I approve! I believe that many modern AFVs usually receive care and repair, and so do not show the kind of damage seen on WWII AFVs.

I do have some questions:

1) You say that you installed "metal tracks, etched and treated with tracks wash." How did you "etch" the tracks? What track wash did you use? I am always interested in more techniques to convincingly weather metal tracks.
2) You also noted that "only room for a foam-protected 2S LiPo rather than the NiMH I would normally use." Indeed, I would rather use a NiMH, but sometimes space is a problem. What do you mean by "foam protected"? Is it just to pad the LiPo, or would this protect the tank in case the LiPo gets nasty?

Oh, modeling for 50 years... Hmm... I was away from modeling throughout most of my working days, but my modeling experience started 55 years ago. As with other aspect of life, I expected to be an expert by now. Hah! Sure!

[Timbo68]

Thank you for your kind words. Yes - the weathering companies must be making a fortune (mainly from me!) and I've always felt that some enthusiasts go a bit over the top. I've also used the lightest touch with the rust as befits a dry climate tank. I used Mig 2020 burnishing fluid, which make the track too black if it is left too long. so just a light soak in diluted fluid seems to work, and MiG tracks wash adds the slightly brown effect. I also use AK PE etching fluid for brass and copper - again, very diluted. The 'soft skin' LiPo is protected as there are lots of metal protrusions near it, so it's just padded in case of a puncture. I never leave them connected or in the tank for storage - I have a vented metal box for that.

Yup- we oldies need to keep the industry going!

[Rad_Schuhart]

Great job! I am working in my T55 for a year now, seems a never ending process.

Among one million things, the gearbox axles were like 3mm too long, causing track misalignement. Did you have that issue too?

[Timbo68]

Thanks! I’ve read several comments about the axles. I found a T55 article with a different solution which I used. The sprockets have flats inside which engage with the drive flats on the axles. The problem is that there are flats on both the inner and outer halves of the sprockets. Those on the inner half prevent the sprockets from seating far enough in on the axles, and the answer was to drill out the flats on the inner half of the sprocket, leaving only those in the outer half. The assembled sprocket will then seat with the proper alignment and engage with the axles for drive. I’d make no guarantees, as there is no certainty that your sprockets/axles are the same as mine. It may work for you, but make sure there’s enough ‘flat’ on the outer half to engage properly before drilling out the inner - try fitting just the outer sprocket half and you can check the alignment then. If it works, there’s no need to alter the shafts. Search on Modelersite.com for the T-55 article - a small charge to download it, but I found lots of ideas (depending on which kit version you have).
Hope that’s useful!

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Thank you for the tips! I have put both "Mig 2020 burnishing fluid" and "AK PE etching fluid for brass and copper" on my shopping list! And "diluted" works great for me, as doing so makes things even more cheapo. Yeah!

[Timbo68]

Just edited my post to say that I use MiG Tracks wash, which seems to give a good colour....

[Rad_Schuhart]

Thanks! I’ve read several comments about the axles. I found a T55 article with a different solution which I used. The sprockets have flats inside which engage with the drive flats on the axles. The problem is that there are flats on both the inner and outer halves of the sprockets. Those on the inner half prevent the sprockets from seating far enough in on the axles, and the answer was to drill out the flats on the inner half of the sprocket, leaving only those in the outer half. The assembled sprocket will then seat with the proper alignment and engage with the axles for drive. I’d make no guarantees, as there is no certainty that your sprockets/axles are the same as mine. It may work for you, but make sure there’s enough ‘flat’ on the outer half to engage properly before drilling out the inner - try fitting just the outer sprocket half and you can check the alignment then. If it works, there’s no need to alter the shafts. Search on Modelersite.com for the T-55 article - a small charge to download it, but I found lots of ideas (depending on which kit version you have).
Hope that’s useful!

Thanks for the info, Ill try to follow your route!
I know that modelersite website, and I refuse to pay even one cent. Here in the forum we all spend loads of hours helping people worldwide for free, and well, my website is a great example of it. So I refuse to pay for just some info about a model. Surely I'd happily read the file, but no way I am paying the 15 bucks he wanted for it when I checked. It is a matter of principles for me, lol.

[Timbo68]

I’d agree in principle - it should be a free community. I don’t recall paying that much a while ago though. However, I’d done lots of research, and most of the advice was for older versions pre roller bearings and such so of no use really. It did however prevent me from making some costly and stupid mistakes, so, for me, some cash well spent. Let me know if the sprocket thing works and If I can be of any other use!

[Rad_Schuhart]

I’d agree in principle - it should be a free community. I don’t recall paying that much a while ago though. However, I’d done lots of research, and most of the advice was for older versions pre roller bearings and such so of no use really. It did however prevent me from making some costly and stupid mistakes, so, for me, some cash well spent. Let me know if the sprocket thing works and If I can be of any other use!

Hi, I checked right now, and it is 15 dollars + another for "Bandwith and other fees"! Jesus Christ
I am sure it saves some dough in the build, but I recall asking the writter about which color use in the leds and his answer was to buy that file. Considering the time I spend helping people for free every day, you have no idea how it pissed me.

Glad we have people in the forum willing to help.

EDIT: Sorry for derrailing your thread!