RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hello friends,

The project is not stopped, but I am late in translating the progress from the Spanish forum. Besides, the acquisition of my 3D printer and other projects have kept me busy

Lately I've been working on the rear part of the tank: the different access hatches to the engine and the stowage bins. As there are no original plans for this part, I have been mainly based and inspired by the panther/jagdpanther.
First of all, the layout I am looking for, designed in 3d: With the corresponding measurements, I built the engine access hatch. To do this, I cut two 1 mm styrene discs and make the 8 octagonal holes, being very careful not to damage the edges. I glue them and bevel the edge. Then I place the 1.8 mm Meng screw heads (from the A large set) in each hole. With a 2.5 mm rod I make the black protrusions, using an electric screwdriver as a lathe to get the recess. Finally, I cut out the smaller hatch that goes on top and use 2.1 mm screw heads to finish it: The next step is the two hatches on each side. I print a drawing and cut it in 0.4 mm styrene as a template, both the big and the small one. Now all that's left is to cut it out in 2 mm sheet and complete it with the screws. The template in use: Makin copies: Already glued in place: As for the stowage bins, they are smaller than the original panther ones, but I designed them being as faithful as possible. I 3d printed the basic shape and with 0.4 mm styrene and patience I make the X flanges and try to simulate hinges and latches: General appearance:

Thank you for the update on your unique Leopard project. "Besides, the acquisition of my 3D printer and other projects have kept me busy." Great! You certainly will be able to make excellent use of the 3D printer.

Hi!

I have designed some early panther exhausts and 3D printed them. With Meng's nuts and bolts set of the appropriate scale I give them the final touch: I have also taken the first steps with the sides of the hull, where the upper hull will rest. As the bed size of my printer is only 180x180, I had to do it in two pieces: Regards

Hi,

I already have upper hull . I printed again in PETG and I used a PEI sheet to to achieve this rough aspect in all the visible faces: Detail of the interlocking of the armor plates, as they are individually designed and printed, it is not necessary to simulate the joint: The driver and radio operator hatches are made with 2mm styrenne and brass wire for the handle. The periscope guards are printed in resin: The armor intake guards were very wide, therefore I designed boxes to avoid it (I painted before gluing them): As you can see, I had the same problem with the fan holes. I had a couple of 3010 fans and I couldn't resit to fit them look as real as possible. The best part is they are functional and maybe I will power on : I have also made progress in the rear deck with different details. It is a pity that the photos do not show the detail obtained with resin printing!. Functional engine hatch hinges, armor casting for fans, fuel filler cap, coolant filler cap and antenna base: Like all previous parts, they are designed in 3D and will be available to everyone in the near future:

Just loving the progress on this and the innovation

The build is fantastic, love the combination of plasticard and 3D printing. The additional fans are such a great idea!

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Using working cooling fans is genius

thanks guys! they really aren't very visible, but these little details charm me

Hi again friends

From the beginning of the design it was clear to me that I wanted to use neodymium magnets to hold hull and upper together. It seems to me a practical solution and much less cumbersome than screws. In addition, as I also knew that I was going to assemble and disassemble the tank a few dozen times, this system would come in handy.
After trying several distributions I opted for 5 points: 2 at the back, 2 at 1/3 from the front, and 1 on the glacis. I only had at home 4 magnets of 5mmx2mm and 2 of 4mmx3mm, and that's what I used. In the 3D design all have the same hole.
In yellow the magnet points: After so much assembling and disassembling the wheels, the obvious has happened and one of the arm supports has broken (it was printed in PLA). After replacing it with another one printed in PETG I have drawn two conclusions:

• I had a hard time removing the broken one from its place. I like this because it means that my plan of gluing it all together (revell contacta) is working for now.
• I have printed the replacement as it is mounted, vertically, instead of lying down. This makes the piece firmer as the layer arrangement is no longer prone to separation.

I also glued both mudguards: And why not, more photos:

Damn thats nice