RC 1/16 Churchill Mk III - Dieppe Raid 1942 - Build
- General Jumbo01
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Re: RC 1/16 Churchill Mk III - Dieppe Raid 1942 - Build
Liking your turret servo setup. Very small and neat.
Owner - Fuckleburgh Tank Collection
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Re: RC 1/16 Churchill Mk III - Dieppe Raid 1942 - Build
Louis,
Pure sorcery! Dare I say it?! Another TOTM?! Yup, I said it! And the answer is....for sure!
Blown away again!
Cheers,
Eric.
Pure sorcery! Dare I say it?! Another TOTM?! Yup, I said it! And the answer is....for sure!
Blown away again!
Cheers,
Eric.
"You can always tell a German, you just can't tell him much." Anonymous.
German cars, German girls, German beer, German firearms, German Shepherds, German motorcycles... Not necessarily in that order though!
UP THE IRONS!
German cars, German girls, German beer, German firearms, German Shepherds, German motorcycles... Not necessarily in that order though!
UP THE IRONS!
- tankme
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Re: RC 1/16 Churchill Mk III - Dieppe Raid 1942 - Build
I just ordered some of the things in your turret setup so I can replicate it in my smaller turret tanks. We will see if I can make it work as good as you have...
Derek
Too many project builds to list...
Too many project builds to list...
Re: RC 1/16 Churchill Mk III - Dieppe Raid 1942 - Build
I definitely like your setup for the turret with the 2 servo's like this. It looks clean and nice.
Looking at your video it works great too.
Are you using opentx to control the recoil?
And what kind of soundcard do you use (I try to find it in this thread but maybe I overlooked it)
really a cool built to watch
Looking at your video it works great too.
Are you using opentx to control the recoil?
And what kind of soundcard do you use (I try to find it in this thread but maybe I overlooked it)
really a cool built to watch
Regards,
Jaap
Jaap
Re: RC 1/16 Churchill Mk III - Dieppe Raid 1942 - Build
Thank you Eric and General Jumbo01 for your encouragements.
Ah, good luck. Some further tips for everyone trying this;
I do select my sleeve tubing specific for the barrel size from a well stocked tubing reserve. The gun barrel needs to fit strait inside the tube but without resistance or being too loose. I use aluminum as much as possible because it is easier to modify. The sleeve needs to be cut with a metal saw, not a tube cutter because the tube cutter compresses the tube when it cuts and will create issues.
I create the recoil slot in the sleeve using a thick Dremel hard cutting disk, not the small cutting disks that easily break. The slot is usually about 35mm long and 2.3mm wide. The inside of the barrel is filed with a large round hand metal chainsaw file to remove any shard. Then thoroughly clean and grease. As mentioned earlier, a M2 hex bolt is used for the link with the barrel. The hole in the barrel for the M2 bolt is made at the calculated location and must be at 90 degrees through the barrel stub, strait and not loose. Always wear full eye protection gear when cutting metal with a Dremel as metal shards will fly. Also year face mask to avoid breathing dust. I always do this outside. It takes a couple of minutes. Assortments for M2 and M3 hex bolts of various length are cheaply sold on Amazon. Pull rods and flexible linkage end connectors are cheaply sold on eBay from trusted Chinese sellers offering speedPak delivery, a few dollars for a dozen. Same for micro servos.
I like to have a more direct control over the gun elevation than using the control sticks so i connected the main gun elevation servo directly to an available channel on the receiver and assigned the rotating VRa knob for better stability and control. Same for the bow machine gun servo assigned to VRb knob, bypassing the control board for movement. All the triggers for gun firing are assigned to switches, allowing shooting while in movement.
However, i did listen to many comments i got on this blog and on my Youtube channel on my past builds from people around the world. I have ordered last week a Elmod Fusion Pro that i am planning to use on the more complex builds, possibly this tank. I looked at the features and the web/phone setup interface App seem to offer what i was looking for in terms of sounds selection, machine gun rate of fire configuration and user interface. I never really managed to get the Clark configuration process to work correctly for me using their TV remote process with the little blinking lights and confusing instructions... The Elmod seems way in advance in most areas. I also got intrigued by the Elmod capability of using the Bluetooth instead of a remote control to operate the tank. This will be a learning exercise. It was time for a change as my needs have gone beyond what Clark was offering.
Regards, Louis
tankme wrote:I just ordered some of the things in your turret setup so I can replicate it in my smaller turret tanks. We will see if I can make it work as good as you have...
Ah, good luck. Some further tips for everyone trying this;
I do select my sleeve tubing specific for the barrel size from a well stocked tubing reserve. The gun barrel needs to fit strait inside the tube but without resistance or being too loose. I use aluminum as much as possible because it is easier to modify. The sleeve needs to be cut with a metal saw, not a tube cutter because the tube cutter compresses the tube when it cuts and will create issues.
I create the recoil slot in the sleeve using a thick Dremel hard cutting disk, not the small cutting disks that easily break. The slot is usually about 35mm long and 2.3mm wide. The inside of the barrel is filed with a large round hand metal chainsaw file to remove any shard. Then thoroughly clean and grease. As mentioned earlier, a M2 hex bolt is used for the link with the barrel. The hole in the barrel for the M2 bolt is made at the calculated location and must be at 90 degrees through the barrel stub, strait and not loose. Always wear full eye protection gear when cutting metal with a Dremel as metal shards will fly. Also year face mask to avoid breathing dust. I always do this outside. It takes a couple of minutes. Assortments for M2 and M3 hex bolts of various length are cheaply sold on Amazon. Pull rods and flexible linkage end connectors are cheaply sold on eBay from trusted Chinese sellers offering speedPak delivery, a few dollars for a dozen. Same for micro servos.
For this build at this point, i use a Clark TK60. As i have many RC tanks, my tanks are usually always pre-wired for either a TK40 or a TK60, and it is a 2 minute plug and play process to put a tank in working order. This is much cheaper than buying control boards for each tanks. It also ensures the board and remote control setup is always up to date and in good working order.jee wrote:Are you using opentx to control the recoil?
And what kind of soundcard do you use (I try to find it in this thread but maybe I overlooked it)
I like to have a more direct control over the gun elevation than using the control sticks so i connected the main gun elevation servo directly to an available channel on the receiver and assigned the rotating VRa knob for better stability and control. Same for the bow machine gun servo assigned to VRb knob, bypassing the control board for movement. All the triggers for gun firing are assigned to switches, allowing shooting while in movement.
However, i did listen to many comments i got on this blog and on my Youtube channel on my past builds from people around the world. I have ordered last week a Elmod Fusion Pro that i am planning to use on the more complex builds, possibly this tank. I looked at the features and the web/phone setup interface App seem to offer what i was looking for in terms of sounds selection, machine gun rate of fire configuration and user interface. I never really managed to get the Clark configuration process to work correctly for me using their TV remote process with the little blinking lights and confusing instructions... The Elmod seems way in advance in most areas. I also got intrigued by the Elmod capability of using the Bluetooth instead of a remote control to operate the tank. This will be a learning exercise. It was time for a change as my needs have gone beyond what Clark was offering.
Regards, Louis
Re: RC 1/16 Churchill Mk III - Dieppe Raid 1942 - Build
Thanks for your very clear answer!!!
Regards,
Jaap
Jaap
Re: RC 1/16 Churchill Mk III - Dieppe Raid 1942 - Build
Elmod Fusion is outdated.
There will be a new Elmod at the end of the year.
Here in Germany, the Beier SFR-1-D is on the road to success.
It has SBus, Ibus, Graupner SUMD and can also be controlled via Bluetooth.
The Beier electronics are superior to the Elmod in all respects.
There will be a new Elmod at the end of the year.
Here in Germany, the Beier SFR-1-D is on the road to success.
It has SBus, Ibus, Graupner SUMD and can also be controlled via Bluetooth.
The Beier electronics are superior to the Elmod in all respects.
Re: RC 1/16 Churchill Mk III - Dieppe Raid 1942 - Build
Hi,
This post is for some of the detailing at the front of the vehicle.
View of the AFV Club model of the glacis and driver/gunner hatches. Notice the flat head rivets, low vis headlights, ventilator and rotating periscopes.
View of a surviving Churchill Mk III driver's rotating periscope with the rounded armor. Notice the base plate and the flat head rivets seen across the deck, seen on AFV Club model as well with precise locations.
Although i've seen some metal offering on the web for the periscope, i preferred to make my own with exact dimensions. I calculated the rounded armor can use a 10mm metal tube and the opening is simply done with a hand file, and then glued over the base.
The rivets are aluminum Knupfer 1.2mm x 4mm with the rounded head flattened with a nail file as shown with red pointer.
Overview of the driver/gunner hatches and periscopes.
The closest headlights i had on inventory are AFV-Model T-55 low vis headlights that were modified to be as close as possible to the Churchill. Although they are molded in solid hard metal and cannot be made functional with a LED, they look good and very close to the ones used on the Churchill.
Headlights installed.
Frontal tow hook and glacis rivets installed. The hook used is an Aber Panther hook. A bit long but looking good with a brass M2.5 bolt and nut.
That's it for now,
Regards, Louis
This post is for some of the detailing at the front of the vehicle.
View of the AFV Club model of the glacis and driver/gunner hatches. Notice the flat head rivets, low vis headlights, ventilator and rotating periscopes.
View of a surviving Churchill Mk III driver's rotating periscope with the rounded armor. Notice the base plate and the flat head rivets seen across the deck, seen on AFV Club model as well with precise locations.
Although i've seen some metal offering on the web for the periscope, i preferred to make my own with exact dimensions. I calculated the rounded armor can use a 10mm metal tube and the opening is simply done with a hand file, and then glued over the base.
The rivets are aluminum Knupfer 1.2mm x 4mm with the rounded head flattened with a nail file as shown with red pointer.
Overview of the driver/gunner hatches and periscopes.
The closest headlights i had on inventory are AFV-Model T-55 low vis headlights that were modified to be as close as possible to the Churchill. Although they are molded in solid hard metal and cannot be made functional with a LED, they look good and very close to the ones used on the Churchill.
Headlights installed.
Frontal tow hook and glacis rivets installed. The hook used is an Aber Panther hook. A bit long but looking good with a brass M2.5 bolt and nut.
That's it for now,
Regards, Louis
Re: RC 1/16 Churchill Mk III - Dieppe Raid 1942 - Build
Hello,
The following set of posts are for the rear deck.
A trademark of a landed Churchill Mk III tank at Dieppe is the presence of deep wading stacks connected to the standard two pipe exhaust on the rear deck. But they only seem to be adding depth to the disturbing sights of the carnage.
I completed a bit more of the 1/35 tank to get a feeling of the general placement of each items on the rear deck, such at the exhaust exit points, hinges, hatch locks and handles.
The deep wading exhaust stacks. I used them as a model for the 1/16 scale but i later sadly noticed some shape issues with them that i think i will have to rectify. The second section is horizontal while it should be sloped a bit towards the inside.
With the Ludwig kit comes a 3D printed rendition of the Churchill exhaust pipes and cover plates. In addition to the regular complaints i have with 3D printed finish, they also have some dimensions issues.
As per references, I reduced the legs in size, made them wider to fit my upper deck, and also redid some details. Comparing before and after.
Holes can be drilled to fit a smoker.
This is the completed upgraded exhaust base ready for installation.
The deck plate over the gearbox done earlier is prepared for further detailing. I also replaced the rivets installed earlier by M1 bolts.
continuing on following post
The following set of posts are for the rear deck.
A trademark of a landed Churchill Mk III tank at Dieppe is the presence of deep wading stacks connected to the standard two pipe exhaust on the rear deck. But they only seem to be adding depth to the disturbing sights of the carnage.
I completed a bit more of the 1/35 tank to get a feeling of the general placement of each items on the rear deck, such at the exhaust exit points, hinges, hatch locks and handles.
The deep wading exhaust stacks. I used them as a model for the 1/16 scale but i later sadly noticed some shape issues with them that i think i will have to rectify. The second section is horizontal while it should be sloped a bit towards the inside.
With the Ludwig kit comes a 3D printed rendition of the Churchill exhaust pipes and cover plates. In addition to the regular complaints i have with 3D printed finish, they also have some dimensions issues.
As per references, I reduced the legs in size, made them wider to fit my upper deck, and also redid some details. Comparing before and after.
Holes can be drilled to fit a smoker.
This is the completed upgraded exhaust base ready for installation.
The deck plate over the gearbox done earlier is prepared for further detailing. I also replaced the rivets installed earlier by M1 bolts.
continuing on following post
Re: RC 1/16 Churchill Mk III - Dieppe Raid 1942 - Build
The hinges are put in place. They were made static, i saw no use in making them functional.
The exhaust has attachment points that needs to be scratch built.
References show flat head rivets on all hinges, but they are almost level with the base metal in many cases. Do i show them or not was the question. The hinges kind of look naked without something so i installed the flat head rivets. I will need to further flatten them to be more authentic though.
The hinges over the gearbox have a stopper plate on them, shown here.
The deck over the engine is ready.
No need for magnets, the plates are inserted in their position and hold firmly in place. Notice that the grill at the end of the deck is not an air intake or exhaust, it is a ventilation grill for the engine compartment.
continuing on following post
The exhaust has attachment points that needs to be scratch built.
References show flat head rivets on all hinges, but they are almost level with the base metal in many cases. Do i show them or not was the question. The hinges kind of look naked without something so i installed the flat head rivets. I will need to further flatten them to be more authentic though.
The hinges over the gearbox have a stopper plate on them, shown here.
The deck over the engine is ready.
No need for magnets, the plates are inserted in their position and hold firmly in place. Notice that the grill at the end of the deck is not an air intake or exhaust, it is a ventilation grill for the engine compartment.
continuing on following post