name is bullyhys.
I constructed 2 units aprox 8-9 months ago and this info was not available at that time. So my Thanks for posting your excellent build.?
I do have one suggestion and a few Questions for the builder.
My suggestion is to keep watch on the wheel hubs this seems to be a high stress area and 7 of 8 wheels on mine have cracked so much so I had to reorder a new set of replacement wheels. I did do a repair of my cracked wheels by back filling around the wheel hubs with epoxy, I'll see how this idea works out.
As for my questions the first one has to do with the TK22 board program settings can you clue me in as what setting you used?
Both of my builds are 234/4 Pakwagens with a 16 scale pak40 mounted with working recoil.( my cousin purchased one and wanted me to build it for him, so I setup a deal so I could get one for my collection.)
My thanks for this excellent build post, I doing a refit to the new info you posted ?
lmcq11 wrote:Thanks Raminator, i might build another one eventually.Raminator wrote:Moving ahead smoothly Louis, I can tell that your meticulous and methodical approach is already paying off. It looks like several key parts can be installed the wrong way, which is asking for trouble and no doubt contributes to these kits' reputation. They don't leave much margin for error! That steering servo is a beast, definitely makes a difference. Looking forward to seeing more.
I'm a big fan of the 234/1 personally, but that's probably because I think autocannons are cool
Good luck, the solution is to keep everything as loose as possible to give a break to the servo and gearbox.MichaelC wrote:Louis looks great and runs perfect. I will have to take mine apart and follow your steps !
Continuing with the build.
This post is for the turret rotation.
Upper hull sides are attached without problems. I found the plastic upper hull to be on the thin side but well detailed.
I hesitated in purchasing the Metal Origin turret rotation set. At $68, it is overpriced and looks weak with a small motor and gears. Availability of spare parts is non existant.
For $20, i could get a standard Mato 360 rotation wheel and a proven Heng Long rotation unit. The size of the wheel is perfect for the Puma, no need for custom size. The attachment points on the turret base are reinforced with a plasticard layer and holes are made for M3 hex bolts.
The wheel is centrally installed on the base of the turret, with removable hex bolts. The rotation unit needs to be installed at an angle under the glacis.
A hastily made plasticard base was created as a platform to screw the unit at the right height. Notice that i had to grind the lip that was touching the hull transversal bar.
It works perfectly well at an angle. No need to be too difficult or purist.
The wheel is installed just to be a bit loose but firmly holding the turret base in place like any other turret. It took about 1 hour to do this.
I had to grind the lip of the rotation unit to clear the hull front transversal metal bar. The rotation unit is actually resting on it, which is ok as it provides some support because the plastic of the upper hull is quite thin.
Shown here is the new planned layout of the electronics. Small speaker at the back, receiver on the right side, Clark TK-22 control board in the middle, battery at the front, rotation unit on top of the battery. I replaced the planned TK40 by an available TK22. I need the TK40 for the GTK build.
Everything fits well inside. This is the model as it stands today after only 4 days of part time work. I will put this build aside for a while, going back to the GTK build while i wait for a hollow Puma gun barrel from MK Modellbau. The plan is to give the gun elevation, recoil, flash, sound with coax MG flash and sound.
Regards, Louis