1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build

This section is for builds that are not strictly Tamiya or Heng Long. For instance, replacing the electronics from a WSN or Matorro, or even a scratch-build.
bullyhys
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Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build

Post by bullyhys »

Hello from another 234 fan ?
name is bullyhys.
I constructed 2 units aprox 8-9 months ago and this info was not available at that time. So my Thanks for posting your excellent build.?
I do have one suggestion and a few Questions for the builder.

My suggestion is to keep watch on the wheel hubs this seems to be a high stress area and 7 of 8 wheels on mine have cracked so much so I had to reorder a new set of replacement wheels. I did do a repair of my cracked wheels by back filling around the wheel hubs with epoxy, I'll see how this idea works out.

As for my questions the first one has to do with the TK22 board program settings can you clue me in as what setting you used?

Both of my builds are 234/4 Pakwagens with a 16 scale pak40 mounted with working recoil.( my cousin purchased one and wanted me to build it for him, so I setup a deal so I could get one for my collection.)

My thanks for this excellent build post, I doing a refit to the new info you posted ?

lmcq11 wrote:
Raminator wrote:Moving ahead smoothly Louis, I can tell that your meticulous and methodical approach is already paying off. It looks like several key parts can be installed the wrong way, which is asking for trouble and no doubt contributes to these kits' reputation. They don't leave much margin for error! That steering servo is a beast, definitely makes a difference. Looking forward to seeing more.

I'm a big fan of the 234/1 personally, but that's probably because I think autocannons are cool
Thanks Raminator, i might build another one eventually.
MichaelC wrote:Louis looks great and runs perfect. I will have to take mine apart and follow your steps !
Good luck, the solution is to keep everything as loose as possible to give a break to the servo and gearbox.

Continuing with the build.

This post is for the turret rotation.

Upper hull sides are attached without problems. I found the plastic upper hull to be on the thin side but well detailed.
Capture0.JPG
I hesitated in purchasing the Metal Origin turret rotation set. At $68, it is overpriced and looks weak with a small motor and gears. Availability of spare parts is non existant.
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For $20, i could get a standard Mato 360 rotation wheel and a proven Heng Long rotation unit. The size of the wheel is perfect for the Puma, no need for custom size. The attachment points on the turret base are reinforced with a plasticard layer and holes are made for M3 hex bolts.
Capture3.JPG
The wheel is centrally installed on the base of the turret, with removable hex bolts. The rotation unit needs to be installed at an angle under the glacis.
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A hastily made plasticard base was created as a platform to screw the unit at the right height. Notice that i had to grind the lip that was touching the hull transversal bar.
Capture4a.JPG
It works perfectly well at an angle. No need to be too difficult or purist.
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The wheel is installed just to be a bit loose but firmly holding the turret base in place like any other turret. It took about 1 hour to do this.
Capture5.JPG
I had to grind the lip of the rotation unit to clear the hull front transversal metal bar. The rotation unit is actually resting on it, which is ok as it provides some support because the plastic of the upper hull is quite thin.
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Shown here is the new planned layout of the electronics. Small speaker at the back, receiver on the right side, Clark TK-22 control board in the middle, battery at the front, rotation unit on top of the battery. I replaced the planned TK40 by an available TK22. I need the TK40 for the GTK build.
Capture7.JPG
Everything fits well inside. This is the model as it stands today after only 4 days of part time work. I will put this build aside for a while, going back to the GTK build while i wait for a hollow Puma gun barrel from MK Modellbau. The plan is to give the gun elevation, recoil, flash, sound with coax MG flash and sound.
Capture8.JPG
Regards, Louis
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lmcq11
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Re: 1/16 RC Sd.Kfz. 234/2 Puma armored car - lmcq11 build

Post by lmcq11 »

bullyhys wrote:s for my questions the first one has to do with the TK22 board program settings can you clue me in as what setting you used?
Thank you, my setting of the Clark board for the Puma is very simple, It is the standard tank setting as all my tanks and wheeled vehicles (V-100, V-150, Puma, Fuchs, Boxer), The single motor is connected to one of the 2 motor ports of the board. The steering servo is bypassing the board and is connected directly to the receiver on a available channel assigned to the VRb knob. When i drive the vehicle, the forward/reverse stick does controls the gas pedal while the VRb knob is used like a steering wheel to drive the vehicle. The Puma turret operation is same as a tank but i assigned the gun elevation to an independent receiver channel assigned to the VRa knob. It is easier to control and maintain elevation with a knob than with one of the stick while trying to rotate the turret and shoot at the same time. When i use a TK40 or TK60, i assign engine start, lights, main gun and machine gun firing to switches but it is not possible on the TK 20 series.

I have another 234 build coming next winter, it will be a 234/3 Stummel with the short 75mm gun and it will use the Elmod Fusion Pro Puma that made it to my doorstep. As this is a kit and will be a pretty clean build compared to my usual dusty plasticard scratch building, i tend to keep those kits for the winter when it is more difficult to do the scratch building sanding outside.

Regards, Louis
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